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10/3 Wire split

icodeintx
Explorer
Explorer
Hello friends,

I have a 10/3 wire (my 30amp service line) from the inlet to the breaker box and between the two I have a cut in the insulation. I'm wanting to splice the wire and put in a new piece from the inlet to where the cut is which is only about 3ft from the inlet. It would a major pain to replace the entire wire as one piece so I'm thinking about installing a junction box and using wire nuts to piece the wire together.

Is this a bad idea since it is the 30amp line? Will twisted wire with wire nuts hold up to those amps? My other option is a terminal connection but I don't have any experience with those. Your ideas?

Thanks in advance
Scott
Scott D - Desert Storm Veteran
77 REPLIES 77

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
OP good call.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

icodeintx
Explorer
Explorer
Here is my response ๐Ÿ™‚

I appreciate everyone's feedback and discussions (arguments) about which is the best way. I've determined from the discussions that the right way is whatever floats my boat as long as the copper is not damaged. For now it is going to get wrapped and down the line maybe it will get replaced with a jbox. However, I'm 95% leaning towards building out a skoolie in the near future so that will end the need for jbox or tape



Cummins12V98 wrote:
HMMMM

No responses.
Scott D - Desert Storm Veteran

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
HMMMM

No responses.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
The solder seal type heat shrink tubing has a lead bismuth alloy which melts somewhere in the 300ยฐF range. Mostly for use with a heat gun but a butane lighter will do. Crimp then solder shrink and seal in one motion. The nylon version of black spiral wrap is incredibly durable. I've wrapped arc welding cable and MIG stinger leads with it and the cords remain undamaged laying on a shop floor. I like stuff that lasts. The capacity test of the 31XT Lifeline is underway. It was first charged for 6 hours at 14.40 volts @ 15c

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
There exists SPIRAL WRAP to serve as exactly that, cool around the vulnerable area. The cheap Chinese plastic stuff works OK for cosmetic effect while more expensive Nylon wrap protects against physical bumps, scrapes and cuts.

Butt connectors are available with built-in shrink tubing or a person can stick with a Snuffy Smith Special.


I especially like the marine ones that have some kind of a heat/melt glue in them also.
bumpy

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
There exists SPIRAL WRAP to serve as exactly that, cool around the vulnerable area. The cheap Chinese plastic stuff works OK for cosmetic effect while more expensive Nylon wrap protects against physical bumps, scrapes and cuts.

Butt connectors are available with built-in shrink tubing or a person can stick with a Snuffy Smith Special.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
MrWizard wrote:
I love silicone self fusing tape
I have been using the 3M brand
I always use it on connections I don't want to re-visit
Will try the F2t tape next time I order some
I wrap new cable ends with it, to seal them, better protection than shrink tubing


Nice some understand the usefulness of these products.

I had an overhead feeder line get chaffed that fed power to an out building. It caused weird electrical issues when it rained. I turned off the power, re attached the support that kept the feeder off the roof and proceeded to properly wrap the chaffed line. Worked GREAT!

Now all you splice fans should I have chopped apart a perfectly good wire and set a couple junction boxes with new cable in-between?????????
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
If it's an area susceptible to damage, you may want to use a whip like this to run between the new splice junction box and the junction box that connects to the shore cord. Note that this is set up for 220v with black/red/green, but the wiring is the same and can easily be used for 120v by placing some white tape on either end of the red wire to mark it as the neutral.

Yes, wirenuts are fine as long as the cables are clamped where they enter the junction box and the box cover is installed.

Click pic for link.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Silly cone self fusing tape
Mr Wizard, gotta good source? Sorta pricey.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
BFL a special electric screwdriver head(s) are available to twist wire nuts both ways. Reduces knuckle agony

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I love silicone self fusing tape
I have been using the 3M brand
I always use it on connections I don't want to re-visit
Will try the F2t tape next time I order some
I wrap new cable ends with it, to seal them, better protection than shrink tubing
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
NRALIFR wrote:
Bandaids fall off eventually. Fixes do not.

:):)


Use the proper tape I mentioned and it will never fail.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The OP has a chance here to insert his own Surge Guard and use lots of wire nuts ( and drive the electricians here nuts too)

IMO wire nuts would be ok for this job. I did that with the shore cord on the 5er we had and the portable Surge Guard. I moved the Surge Guard to be permanently inside.

The shore cord's bitter end was to a junction box before going to the power centre. I undid the shore cord from the junction box. I cut the ends off the Surge Guard and aiming it the right way towards the pedestal end, joined three wires to the junction box.

Now I had two plug ends to play with and the bitter end of the shore cord to link up. I forget why, but I used the two Surge Guard plugs and got it all together using lots of wire nuts. Worked great for over 10 years.

For selling the 5er, I took that out and put the shore cord back where it was OEM. Put the Surge Guard back together with lots of wire nuts ๐Ÿ™‚ and now it is inside the Class C still working. ( I use the C's OEM shore cord all inside to the Surge Guard and another cable for the RV to pedestal run. I can also plug into the inverter instead of into the cable that goes to the pedestal for Whole House)

I used mostly those big blue wire nuts because they have the side wings so you can twist harder on them. I didn't know the red ones with no side wings were for 10 AWG as was mentioned. I use red ones for # 8 but find the blue ones can be twisted tighter even with #8. Whatever works! ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I say "Yes of course you're right" and back away without turning my back to the menace to my peace abd quiet.

Did I write 'part'? Well maybe the part of my head that needs to be shorn every so often.

Repairs? Should suit the sensibilities if the person affected. I've seen individuals to sensitized to perfection that they seemingly anguish over an eighth of an inch out of parallel.