100 Volt Refridgerator

Many folks like the Residetial type fridge.. Often you can get one that has greater capacity, and some folks fear Propane.. Many of the residential's are a bit more power efficient.

Both Norcold and Dometic make high effiency all electric (12/120 volt) units, these power suckers suck right around 40 watts running with door closed.
To give you an idea of how much power that is,, A common dual light fixture draws almost exactly that amount.

From the thread title, I thought the OP might be from Western Japan. There are no 100V or 110V appliances made in the USA, The standard USA voltage is 120V.
Sorry to be nitpicking but misnomers when dealing with electricity drives me crazy, it's hard enough to keep everything sorted as it is,

I use a small residential 120V fridge, It's powered by a 1000W sine inverter when off grid. I have 300 AH of batteries and a 235W solar panel. The small dorm/office fridge draws 80W at a 1:4 duty cycle about 30=40AH daily depending on ambient and how often the door is opened. If I was to improve on refrigeration, it would be to use a larger box since they draw nearly the same amount of watts.

on the RV Absorption fridge
the 120v heating element is roughly 325w
that uses approx 30amps of 12v power to create 3 amps of 120v power for the heating element

my residential fridge uses 90+ watts, approx 9amps of 12v power to make 0.9amp 120v power

running an absorption fridge from battery and inverter is a power robbing situation

Hi,

If it was an absorption fridge it would be drawing 30 amps with a duty cycle of 2:3. Residential Fridges draw about 1/3rd of that amount and the duty cycle is far far lower.

tenbear wrote:
Years ago when I had a TT I tried running my refrig using an inverter while traveling. I found the battery would only last about 4 hours or less before the inverter would shut off.

tenbear wrote:
Years ago when I had a TT I tried running my refrig using an inverter while traveling. I found the battery would only last about 4 hours or less before the inverter would shut off.

The 12v wiring between the TV and the TT was just too small to keep the TT battery charged with the refrig running.

I don't know if the 5th wheel wiring is any better, but I would be cautious.

Yes. I believe that but the OP is looking at getting a rig with a RESIDENTIAL fridge. These are compressor driven and use considerably less power than an absorption fridge (RV Electric/Propane) when running on electric. Roughly a quarter or less of the power.

Years ago when I had a TT I tried running my refrig using an inverter while traveling. I found the battery would only last about 4 hours or less before the inverter would shut off.

The 12v wiring between the TV and the TT was just too small to keep the TT battery charged with the refrig running.

I don't know if the 5th wheel wiring is any better, but I would be cautious.

In your situation there is no down side to going 110 residential fridge and lots of upsides. I would recomend the inverter as it will allow you to run the fridge while travelling and even overnight dry camping. New residentials don,t use much power and a couple good batteries should do you fine.

Hope this helps.

J and A

it could be he wants the inverter
to power the fridge while traveling
i know many people say its not needed, the food stays cold
but i know, i would not want to drive six hours, with the fridge OFF
or stop overnight with no power for the fridge

we power our fridge with a 1250w Tripp lite inverter
depending on the fridge and the batteries, a 1000w should work fine

If you are not dry camping, you wouldn't need the inverter at all. If you are dry camping, the inverter won't help at all because the draw from your house battery would make for a very quick drain on said battery.

As others have said, any residential refer will do just fine.

Search 'residential' in this forum.