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100 Watts Solar with Deep Cell 31s or Trojan 6 Volts

Mike3
Explorer
Explorer
I'm looking at a new truck camper that comes with 100 watts solar panel and control. I use minimal lights, water pump, etc when dry camping solo. Is that sufficient to maintain two batteries while dry camping?

I've had The same Trojan 105 golf cart batteries in my Fiver for 9 years and they are still in good shape. So I'm leaning towards them instead of traditional deep cycle. I know 6 volts have more amp hours but do they charge as quickly?

Thanks
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34 REPLIES 34

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
landyacht318 wrote:
If only the charge controllers blinking green light did indicate a full charge.

Guess it does not really matter much if you get to go home and plug in.

100 watts on a pair of t105s cycled more than 20% every night is not going to work well after 2 weeks.

Negating overnight usage and proper full recharge are not the same thing

Landyyacht, I have some doubts.

1) Blinking light on cheap controllers is usually a bulk stage, and steady light is full or float :), but I guess they in China can make it the other way around too.

2) It's not clear how bulk at 30-50A on 110V charger at home is better than bulk at 10-15A on solar. My batteries don't have any "minimum" charging current, only "maximum". Do Trojan 6V have a recommended minimum current?

3) 20% depth of discharge (80% remaining charge) would be a VERY good cycle for any battery. Most users cycle them down to 60-50% (remaining charge) every night.

4) Yes, full recharge has not only to be full, but also at proper Absorption and Float voltages. Cheap controllers don't have means to adjust these voltages, so getting a better controller makes sense. But panel wattage has no bearing on this, as long as it's sufficient to get the battery bank to 14.4V or whatever is recommended Bulk/Absorption voltage.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Physically impractical to try and manufacture cyclable group 31 batteries with more than 110 ampere hours capacity. Plates jammed to the max in each cell.

90 would be better for cyclable usage. We are talking about a heavy battery.

The acid to active plate area ratio is all wrong for higher ampere hours.

Why do you think truly cyclable batteries contain all that electrolyte? It isn't because it offers a better chance of not running the acid level to expose the plates.

When my contractor was selling batteries, the same jar but lighter weight battery had half as many warranties. BTW we are talking about Trojan, and Ramcar. You couldn't give a T-125 away to golf courses even though they cost more. Yes, this was also for Trojans. Too many warranties. Other GC220's suffered the same fate.

Sorry about the bad news. I can't contribute smileys all the time ๐Ÿ˜ž

mpierce
Explorer
Explorer
Since you said you have a generator, if you can, run the generator for an hour or so first thing in the morning. The bulk charge it will allow your convertor to put into your batteries quite a bit of watts. Then, let the solar "top off" the batteries the rest of the day.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
If only the charge controllers blinking green light did indicate a full charge.

Guess it does not really matter much if you get to go home and plug in.

100 watts on a pair of t105s cycled more than 20% every night is not going to work well after 2 weeks.

Negating overnight usage and proper full recharge are not the same thing

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I put 120 w on my previous 5 er with 2 - 6 v equal to T 105 s and it did good. We used minimal lights but I use a bipap every night and the batteries fully charged every day. Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
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Mike3
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the great info folks.
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2013 Honda CRV Toad
2013 Road Glide Ultra with a HydraLift

Almot
Explorer III
Explorer III
Another short answer: Yes.

Longer answer: 100W is only enough for a very light use, and only if there is some sun. On a dark day 100W panel becomes a "battery maintainer", providing few AH a day, enough to compensate for self-discharge but not enough for anything else.

If you are a very light user, say, your energy needs are 20-30 AH a day, with this setup you can live without a generator a couple of weeks with 50% sunshine. After 2 weeks you'll have to run a generator for 5-6 hours, and then again 2 weeks on solar. Theoretically, when there are no clouds at all, such a minimalist user could stay indefinitely. In practice, you might want fans when it's hot, TV when it's windy, and furnace when it's cold.

With today's cheap panels and expensive gas you should get another 2*100W. 300W array will pay for itself in a year or two, if you camp a lot. To me, it would pay for itself from the day one since I wouldn't have to put up with noise and smell of generator, but other people are more tolerant to this. You will (probably) have to upgrade the cable to #8 or #6 then, and also upgrade controller to 25-30A.

Or, a shortcut - use those additional 2*100W as a portable add-on. Lean them to the wall outside, connect in parallel, and buy 15A controller just for this 2*100W pair. No beefy cable, no installation. But if you are staying less than 3-4 days at the same place, you are not going to like folding/unfolding it every time.

Portable kit for those lazy: $460. Controller, cables and Y-splitters are included. Controller is of course cr.ap, Z-brackets are a poor choice for roof setup and are useless for portable setup. I wouldn't buy this kit for roof-mounting, and wouldn't buy it at all. But as a quick and dirty portable, it will work.

PS: forget about recommended 150W solar per 100 AH battery. The more W, the better. The only thing you should worry about is that max post-controller amps should not exceed max charging current for your battery bank.

doughere
Explorer
Explorer
100 watts and 2GC's will do fine. With extended no-sun days you might be forced to use the generator.

I have 2-60watt panels flat mounted, they usually have the batteries fully charged well before the end of the day. I have a 100 watt portable panel, seldom need the portable (only in totally shaded sites where more on the roof wouldn't help anyway). I run my gen dry after servicing in the fall; it hasn't been run yet this season.

I'd use it as-is for a year before considering adding more panels.

Regards,
Doug

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mike@Asheville wrote:
I'm looking at a new truck camper that comes with 100 watts solar panel and control. I use minimal lights, water pump, etc when dry camping solo. Is that sufficient to maintain two batteries while dry camping?

I've had The same Trojan 105 golf cart batteries in my Fiver for 9 years and they are still in good shape. So I'm leaning towards them instead of traditional deep cycle. I know 6 volts have more amp hours but do they charge as quickly?

Thanks


You have some mis information there.. First

I know six volts have more amp hours"

Normally when we speak of six volt we are talking about GC-2 size batteries of which the T-105 is a class member,, These are aroudn 220-250 amp hours depending on the precise model number 105 is the low end (220).

A pair of Group 31's. 260 amp hours.
A single 4D 230 amp hours

The fork lift battery I once borrowed.. I have no clue but on a guess I'd put it in the thousand amp hour range.

Now chrging 100 watts = about 8 amps max, you will likely get no more than 4 amps, this is a very slow trickle charge for the T-105's. Reasonable charge rate for a single Group 24 (75 amp hours) but anyting bigger it is a trickle charge, Good for maintenance, but not for charging.

Still... Most of the time, that is exactly what the RV needs.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,

My first set of Trojan batteries lasted 13 years. You might as well try to get another 3-5 years out of yours.

As for the 100 watt panel, it will help more than not having one at all. However the CO meter, propane detector, and refrigerator will use about 35 amp hours daily, or about what the 100 watt panel will recharge in about a day of good sunlight. So your 220 amp hour batteries would last about 4 days without the solar panel, and close to a week with it. A little time charging with a generator, or some sightseeing in the truck will also top off the battery when solar is there.

Fred.
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BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would not get AGM just because you are on solar. Solar has nothing to do with it. AGM vs Wets would be for other reasons entirely.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

ken_white
Explorer
Explorer
I have been very happy with the Duracell EGC2 batteries I got from Sam's Club.
2014 RAM C&C 3500, 4x4, Club Cab, Hauler Bed, DRW, Aisin, 3.73's, etc...

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Duracell EGC2 Batteries with 460 A-H Capacity

Mike3
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks guys, I have a Honda 2000 to charge when necessary. I'm hoping the 100 watts solar will make that less often. If not I'll add another 100 later.

I'm still unclear on the batteries. I leave my Fiver plugged in all the time with a Progressive Dynamic converter with a float charge and check the water every few months. I'm not sure if the converter in the TC has a float charge but if not I'll add one. Under this situation my Trojans in my Fiver still get me thru a weekend of dry camping.

So do you recommend AGM in place of 6 volt Trojans to use with Solar Panels?
2017 Entegra Anthem
2013 Honda CRV Toad
2013 Road Glide Ultra with a HydraLift

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mike@Asheville wrote:
I'm looking at a new truck camper that comes with 100 watts solar panel and control. I use minimal lights, water pump, etc when dry camping solo. Is that sufficient to maintain two batteries while dry camping?

I've had The same Trojan 105 golf cart batteries in my Fiver for 9 years and they are still in good shape. So I'm leaning towards them instead of traditional deep cycle. I know 6 volts have more amp hours but do they charge as quickly?

Thanks


12v charge as quickly as 6v in pairs. It is the AH capacity vs the charging rate at that voltage that decides how quickly.

Find the thread, "My Screwy 31" before considering getting one. Takes some work to "run" one of those successfully. 6v golf car batts are easy to run.

Once your panel wattage meets your daily usage in AH, then the panel ratio to battery bank size doesn't mean anything really. You can have two or a dozen batteries, you are still running daily on solar.

Where the bigger bank comes in is when the weather goes bad so you can last till the sun comes back out. You might still need a generator powered recharge to catch up though.

So as others have said, your 100w panel might be enough for your usage. If not you can get another panel (if your controller can do the extra amps--so get a controller up front that can do two so you don't have to get another and toss that one) Then your pair of 6s is what you can fit in the camper so that's it. Now it is all up to the weatherman whether you will need a generator powered recharge anytime soon.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

camper19709
Explorer
Explorer
short answer--yes.
With your minimal usage you should be fine.
Always remember you can add another panel.
Chip
06 SurfSide
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2 slides
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