12x2" Brake differences

[mrekim]

I have 5200 lb axles. I'm about to start working on the brakes to deal with a short (according to the brake controller).

I'm considering getting some self adjusting brakes. I see that I can get filled backing plates for 12x2 brakes at 5200 lbs, 6000 lbs, and 7000 lbs.

I've also seen 12x2 brakes for all these rating (5200 through 7000).


Does anyone know the how these differ?


[EDIT]
I found this:
ETrailer FAQ Item

So it seems that all 10x2 should interchange with the higher rated ones have a stronger magnet and different pad compound?

Also, I would assume that if you go to a different magnet/compound you MUST do both wheels on an axle and probably should do all the wheels to keep the braking as even as possible.

[/EDIT]

[mrekim]

westend wrote:

Very likely. I'd suggest to pull the original wiring and wire the brakes using a Star configuration.

I now have a star configuration. Each wheel has a 10 gauge drop from the frame at the wheel and then they all connect at a bus bar near the rear axle with a 10 gauge run to the front. These are all protected by the plastic corrugated bottom cover. I cut an access hole to get to the bus bar.

This should be much better than the 14 gauge.

Huntindog wrote:
Since I boondock, I'd much prefer the wires inside the tube... Never had any issues with that at all. Sagebrush etc. will snag any exposed wires such as those zip tied to the outside of the tube.

I'm hoping the springs provide some protection for the wire where they drop through the corrugated plastic. I don't offroad with the trailer so road debris would be my main concern.

[Huntindog]

j-d wrote:
You may be past this, but adding to the above quote...

I'm told the inside of the axles develop rust and the rust flakes chafe through the insulation of the brake wires. Better to run them on the outside. On my boat trailer, I've found electrical tape lasts longer than ZIP ties for holding the brake hoses to the axles. I suspect same'd be true for wires.

Since I boondock, I'd much prefer the wires inside the tube... Never had any issues with that at all. Sagebrush etc. will snag any exposed wires such as those zip tied to the outside of the tube.

[j-d]

You may be past this, but adding to the above quote...

I'm told the inside of the axles develop rust and the rust flakes chafe through the insulation of the brake wires. Better to run them on the outside. On my boat trailer, I've found electrical tape lasts longer than ZIP ties for holding the brake hoses to the axles. I suspect same'd be true for wires.

[westend]

unless something was going on inside the axle tube.

Very likely. I'd suggest to pull the original wiring and wire the brakes using a Star configuration. That is one pair of individual wires to each axle end. Connect the pairs near the tongue on a terminal strip. Guys say they use 10 ga wire using the original daisy chain but I'd bet my Star layout carries amperage just as good using 14 AWG.

[mrekim]

jodeb720 wrote:

One last thing. I upgraded all the wiring from the tongue to the brakes to 10 gauge wiring. That way there's little resistance to the magnets because I upgraded the wiring.

Yes, I just did this. Replaced the OEM 14 gauge wire. I also found a wire nut in the middle of the straight run from the tongue to the axles. It looked like someone must have cut one wire in the pair by mistake and then decided a wire nut was the best fix.

I still need to go for a test drive to see if the shorting problem is resolved. I didn't find anything during the rewiring that leads me to believe I fixed my short unless something was going on inside the axle tube.

[mrekim]

time2roll wrote:
$1550 to go disk on two axles

How much are you spending already?

Good question. I'm not sure. I re-wired the brakes and hooked up the tow vehicle and the controller seems happy. The problem might not happen until the brakes get applied when the trailer is moving. new Fully stuffed backing plates is probably ~200.

What about the quality of the actuators with these. It seems like you could get stuck in the middle of nowhere with no brakes if an actuator went bad.

[jodeb720]

Last year, I went through my own nightmare - my controller was applying voltage to my Al-KO (brand) 10x2 4400 lb axles.

Long and short, I ended up doing an axle swap and went from 4400 to 6000lb axles, 12x2 self adjusting.

I've never looked back. I also upgraded my controller to a Prodigy P3.

This afternoon I returned from a ride in the desert - and as usual the LA traffic sucked. A couple of times I had to dig into the brakes and between the controller (being set slightly aggressive), the 5er was stopping the truck more than the trailer when I really had to dig into them.

I would recommend Jason from Best Trailer in Missouri (I can look them up). He's the one who pointed out the backing plates, new drums and bearings were almost the same as new axles.

Oh - don't be discourage because it's an axle swap. That was easier than changing the backing plates on my 10x2 4400's and repacking the bearings and pulling the drums off! I had my 16 year old son out there doing the swap with me.

Total time was less than 2 hours and most of that was getting the wiring set correctly, he shrinked, and in a place where it won't bind.

One last thing. I upgraded all the wiring from the tongue to the brakes to 10 gauge wiring. That way there's little resistance to the magnets because I upgraded the wiring.

Your Mileage may vary..

Josh

[time2roll]

$1550 to go disk on two axles

How much are you spending already?

[C_Schomer]

I've had several 5ers with Dexter 12" brakes and heavier wiring and 7k plates made little improvement. I'm getting ready to move so I bought a 34' cargo gneck with 3-6k torflex axles and the brakes are awesome. I pulled the wheels for packing and inspection and I saw these brakes have different magnets than any of the RVs had. They are much larger and they are oval and I think the wires are white. I looked them up on the Dexter site a long time ago but I don't remember the pt. #. I will check into using those magnets if I ever have trouble with 12" drums again, before changing to discs. Craig

[JIMNLIN]

I also have been in contact with Dexter axle group with this emailed question just last spring ;

Dexter email;
Your online website says;

"The Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) of your running gear is determined by the lowest rated component in the assembly. The capacity of the wheel, tire, axle, brake, springs/rubber and hub are all considered."
However the 5.2k/6k and 7k axles show 12" x 2" brakes. What is the determining brake spec differences in those three axle ratings ?
I've looked at Dexters online brake part specs and see different part numbers but that doesn't say the 6k axle brakes have more braking performance than the 5.2k axle brakes.
Thanks....xxx

Mr. xxx,
While the 5.2, 6 & 7K brakes are all 12x2 in size they do have different lining material, magnets and reinforcement of the metal backing plates.

Thanks ......Jim Miller / Dexter Axle

OP I would contact Dexter axle group and ask them what components you need to do the job you want with tour particular axles.
Like you mention you want equal braking performance.
Uneven brakes can cause flat spots on the tires and poor stoping ability and certain brakes locking up especially on wet pavement.

[lenr]

My experience and opinion--your may vary:
According to Dexter customer service the difference between 5200, 6000, and 7000 brakes in a 12x2 is only the aggressiveness of the lining--no difference in the magnet. I have switched from Lippert 4400 lb. axles with 10" hubs to Lippert 5200 lb. with 12x2 hubs trying to get better braking. While that helped, the trailer still did not brake its share. So, I had the backing plates replaced with Dexter 7,000 lb. auto adjust units. So far, it's braking a little stronger but still not as much as I would like. I would like to be able to adjust the brake controller down from its maximum setting. Before someone else asks, yes I re-wired the trailer with much heavier brake wire. My trailer weighs 9400 lb. loaded so 4 7,000 lb. brake linings ought to pull it right down, but so far, not. I'm done--don't want to spend any more money. For me, the next trailer, if there is a next trailer, will just go straight to disk brakes. The Dexter auto-adjust backing plates cost little more than a non-adjust, so if replacing why not just go with the auto-adjust.

[j-d]

An outfit called Eastern Marine has lots of trailer products and periodic specials on brakes. I've bought mostly boat trailer parts including drum-to-disc kits, and found them very competitive on price AND knowledgeable of their merchandise. They actually went to their warehouse and took measurements for me.