16” fluorescent light LED conversion. Wiring question.

If you are talking like a 5 meter long strip of LED's in 30 cM segments then you cut always at a solder pad.> They pads are marked + and- You must connect + to + and - TO -. The order of the strips does not matter.

Converting Florcesent I cut the 5 Meter strip into the proper length, then peal and stick, then solder jumpers (one each end Plus on one end - on ther other) I cut on ther "Bias" as a dressmaker will call it so that the ENTIRE + pad is on one end and the entire - Pad on the other. Avoids shorts and works great.

The order I tape 'em down in does not matter.

(2) wires to each strip
+ and -
strip solder connector points are marked

So I bought my roll of LEDs, cut to fit, wired + to +, - to - but only the first strip lights, which was the first one off the reel.

So when you cut the strip, does the wiring need to re connect the cut strips in the order they came off the reel?

In other words, a 16” strip has an anode and a cathode?

I replaced all our RV lights with solder in 48 SMD led boards a few years ago - no problems.
I tried the strips to make a light in the garage but they weren’t anywhere near bright enough - thanks for the 5050 tip. I bought two 4 foot fluorescent tube replacements from Home Depot to use in the house but they failed in less than a year. We went all fluorescent for our house in the 1980s. Now t looks like it’s time to go all LED fixtures in house and garage. There are some about four feet long advertised for garage lighting and these terrific fixtures at Costco for about $30. Nice colour.

They are well designed to install, too. Quite light while wiring because the glass part screws on after mounting. I have installed half a dozen already and bought another 6 to use when fluorescent bulbs burn out.

Take note of your trailer wallpaper. It will greatly effect what color temp you like.

If your RV has white walls you might like 4000k. But if your trailer has tan colored wallpaper even a cool white at 6000k will appear more neutral.

I did mine right after we bought the Winnie, I used strips mounted on aluminum because I didn't like the glue back strips. I didn't think about the thermal problems that could occur and just glued the strips with contact cement. I do not have any heat problems so contact cement or more likely the aluminum backing is acting as a heat sink.

I put too many strips in the fixtures(5) and so I installed a switch in each of the livingroom lights to allow either 3 strips(best) or 5 strips(operating room light).

Now I'm going to do the bed room and makeup dresser lights. I also want a smaller light over the dinette and will start with one strip and add more until I find the best computer light.

In the S&B I made an under cabinet light for the kitchen and lights for the shelves in the entertainment center. For those I used both contact cement and adhesive backed strips on aluminum. No heat problems from any of those.

I can't find my post on here regarding the conversion of the tubes to LEDs, if I find them I let you see them.

I saw those but I have two lights and the one that quit has a bad ballast so I’m doing the cheapy DIY thing.

I just noticed the link was for the 2' bulbs, they also have the 18" bulbs.

Yep, here's a link to the warm white, they also have cool white.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-LED-G13-Light-Bulb-10W-20W-Equivalent-T8-T12-2-Feet-Soft-White/575597774

rdhetrick wrote:
I just bought a bunch from Walmart. Drop in replacement, about $8 each.

Are you talking led bulbs for bulb type RV fixtures?