COMPLETE: Fluorescent to LED Conversion
I posted a question at this thread less than three weeks ago, and thanks to the responses and links to other threads I have already been able to get parts and complete my conversion. This is my report.
My motivation for this mod was the gang of three fluorescent light fixtures over my stove. Over the years they have been temperamental, not all coming on consistently, bulbs failing excessively. Earlier I replaced the ballast in one and and over the years have replaced countless bulbs at $7 a pop. I finally had enough.
Using information I gathered from the other threads, I learned that different models of LED strips have different light output based on how many LEDs are in each chip. I chose to go with the one with the highest light output so I could use fewer strips in each fixture:
12V White 5630 SMD 300LED 16.4ft 5Meter Flexible led Strip Light un-Waterproof
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jan 28, 2014 OP inline update: I found the "white" LEDs too harsh. As a result I redid them with the "nature white" and it is much better. Really cannot tell from the fluorescent cool whites.
12V Nature White 4000k-4500k un-Waterproof 5630 300SMD 5meter Flexible led Strip
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
As a side note, I was surprised this stuff only seems to be available for order out of China. Further surprised that it arrived in just a week.
These fixtures used the 12" T5 bulbs which each put out 400 lumens. With the LED strip I chose, I figured I could get 450 lumens out of a 10" segment, and would just need two strips to get about the same light output. So, into the mod...
Here is one of the fixtures with the original components. Some folks leave these in place in case they want to revert back to fluorescent. I even saw one poster that made theirs dual mode - being able to switch between LED and fluorescent. I personally wanted nothing more to do with these troublemakers so I gutted them.
In reading the other threads, I learned that these LED strips are designed for 12 volts but since the RV DC system can often run at over 13 volts, it is best to put in a voltage regulator to prolong the life of the LEDs. They recommended this inexpensive step-down power supply:
LM2596HV LM2596S DC-DC Step Down CC-CV Adjustable Power Supply Module
When I removed the ballasts from the fixtures, there was some plastic material under them to isolate the circuit board from the fixture box, so I cut this down and re-used it to isolate the regulators.
Here is the first fixture with regulator and strips in place. I've not done much circuit board soldering like this, but it was really not hard at all - just would be easier with 3 hands! Other posters reported that sometimes the strips would not stay stuck, possibly due to heat.
It is said that if run at the proper voltage, there should not be excessive heat, but I went ahead and followed their recommendation to first wipe the surface with alcohol and then "spot tack" with some adhesive like Goop. Since I only had to use 2 strips, I was able to replace the center cover/reflector.
On some of the other posts, you will see folks that chose to also solder directly on the strips and others use the connectors as I did. These are the connectors recommended. Be aware there are two widths on these LED strips, so be sure to get the correct connectors based on the model LED strip you order.
10x led-to-led Connector 2p 15cm wire for 10mm width
At least one poster reported that connector connnections did not seem to be solid - that moving the strip around would break the connection. Once I realized how these things are made, I wondered if perhaps they did not connect them properly. They are tiny and you have to look closely to see how they are built.
Note how there are little slots to slide the strip in and under the contacts. Be sure to peel back the backing a bit before sliding it in. It seems if inserted properly, they are solid when snapped shut, but give them a good squeeze - I had a couple of the strips flicker a bit and applying a little extra pressure on the closed connector seemed to make it stop. If you wonder why I did not cut the strip on the line between the contacts, other posters reported that made it easier to solder directly on the strip, which I opted not to do.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jan 28, 2014 OP inline update: I was still getting some flickering, so I went back and added a drop of solder on the contacts inside the connectors. Even having to do this, I still think the connectors make the job easier. I found it hard to hold the wire, the soldering iron and the solder with only two hands!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Here is a pic with the first converted fixture re-installed next to the other two fluorescent fixtures. I went back and forth on which "temperature" LEDs to get - I don't like overly yellow lighting. I'll admit though that this might be "too white". But heck, the strips are so cheap I might order another roll with a softer temp and swap them out. The fact I used the connectors instead of soldering will make that pretty simple.
Here it is after all were converted and the cover replaced.
I also decided to convert a nearby fixture that has 15" T8 bulbs that put out about 1175 lumens each, or 2350 lumens for the fixture. I decided to put 3 segments in this fixture, but one had to be shorter to make room for the regulator. This gave me about 1980 lumens, which seems like plenty of light. I could have put in a fourth strip and adjusted lengths a bit, but happy with the output. BTW, the strips can be cut every 3 LEDs so on this model, each 3-LED segment offers 90 lumens.
On the connectors, notice sometimes I used them intact to connect the strips in series, but I also would cut them in half to use for the initial connection to the regulator.
Bottom line, this is a really easy, inexpensive conversion and will more than pay for itself in savings on fluorescent bulbs, and for me the frustration of that temperamental fixture over the stove! Also, boondockers seem to like them for lower power draw.
My motivation for this mod was the gang of three fluorescent light fixtures over my stove. Over the years they have been temperamental, not all coming on consistently, bulbs failing excessively. Earlier I replaced the ballast in one and and over the years have replaced countless bulbs at $7 a pop. I finally had enough.
Using information I gathered from the other threads, I learned that different models of LED strips have different light output based on how many LEDs are in each chip. I chose to go with the one with the highest light output so I could use fewer strips in each fixture:
12V White 5630 SMD 300LED 16.4ft 5Meter Flexible led Strip Light un-Waterproof
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jan 28, 2014 OP inline update: I found the "white" LEDs too harsh. As a result I redid them with the "nature white" and it is much better. Really cannot tell from the fluorescent cool whites.
12V Nature White 4000k-4500k un-Waterproof 5630 300SMD 5meter Flexible led Strip
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
As a side note, I was surprised this stuff only seems to be available for order out of China. Further surprised that it arrived in just a week.
These fixtures used the 12" T5 bulbs which each put out 400 lumens. With the LED strip I chose, I figured I could get 450 lumens out of a 10" segment, and would just need two strips to get about the same light output. So, into the mod...
Here is one of the fixtures with the original components. Some folks leave these in place in case they want to revert back to fluorescent. I even saw one poster that made theirs dual mode - being able to switch between LED and fluorescent. I personally wanted nothing more to do with these troublemakers so I gutted them.
In reading the other threads, I learned that these LED strips are designed for 12 volts but since the RV DC system can often run at over 13 volts, it is best to put in a voltage regulator to prolong the life of the LEDs. They recommended this inexpensive step-down power supply:
LM2596HV LM2596S DC-DC Step Down CC-CV Adjustable Power Supply Module
When I removed the ballasts from the fixtures, there was some plastic material under them to isolate the circuit board from the fixture box, so I cut this down and re-used it to isolate the regulators.
Here is the first fixture with regulator and strips in place. I've not done much circuit board soldering like this, but it was really not hard at all - just would be easier with 3 hands! Other posters reported that sometimes the strips would not stay stuck, possibly due to heat.
It is said that if run at the proper voltage, there should not be excessive heat, but I went ahead and followed their recommendation to first wipe the surface with alcohol and then "spot tack" with some adhesive like Goop. Since I only had to use 2 strips, I was able to replace the center cover/reflector.
On some of the other posts, you will see folks that chose to also solder directly on the strips and others use the connectors as I did. These are the connectors recommended. Be aware there are two widths on these LED strips, so be sure to get the correct connectors based on the model LED strip you order.
10x led-to-led Connector 2p 15cm wire for 10mm width
At least one poster reported that connector connnections did not seem to be solid - that moving the strip around would break the connection. Once I realized how these things are made, I wondered if perhaps they did not connect them properly. They are tiny and you have to look closely to see how they are built.
Note how there are little slots to slide the strip in and under the contacts. Be sure to peel back the backing a bit before sliding it in. It seems if inserted properly, they are solid when snapped shut, but give them a good squeeze - I had a couple of the strips flicker a bit and applying a little extra pressure on the closed connector seemed to make it stop. If you wonder why I did not cut the strip on the line between the contacts, other posters reported that made it easier to solder directly on the strip, which I opted not to do.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jan 28, 2014 OP inline update: I was still getting some flickering, so I went back and added a drop of solder on the contacts inside the connectors. Even having to do this, I still think the connectors make the job easier. I found it hard to hold the wire, the soldering iron and the solder with only two hands!
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Here is a pic with the first converted fixture re-installed next to the other two fluorescent fixtures. I went back and forth on which "temperature" LEDs to get - I don't like overly yellow lighting. I'll admit though that this might be "too white". But heck, the strips are so cheap I might order another roll with a softer temp and swap them out. The fact I used the connectors instead of soldering will make that pretty simple.
Here it is after all were converted and the cover replaced.
I also decided to convert a nearby fixture that has 15" T8 bulbs that put out about 1175 lumens each, or 2350 lumens for the fixture. I decided to put 3 segments in this fixture, but one had to be shorter to make room for the regulator. This gave me about 1980 lumens, which seems like plenty of light. I could have put in a fourth strip and adjusted lengths a bit, but happy with the output. BTW, the strips can be cut every 3 LEDs so on this model, each 3-LED segment offers 90 lumens.
On the connectors, notice sometimes I used them intact to connect the strips in series, but I also would cut them in half to use for the initial connection to the regulator.
Bottom line, this is a really easy, inexpensive conversion and will more than pay for itself in savings on fluorescent bulbs, and for me the frustration of that temperamental fixture over the stove! Also, boondockers seem to like them for lower power draw.
