1995 Ford Tioga Montara starting - wiring diagram

20 years Old?

You have MULTIPLE problems in MULTIPLE systems. There isn't a COMMON denominator.

The best chassis wiring diagrams are factory. In your case, authentic FORD manuals

Start at GOOGLE. Search Box FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL your make and model

Many service manual providers offer one-time downloads of the entire manual for your chassis. They are worth every nickel. The "pages" don't accumulate greasy thumb prints :)

Your NO KEY START is probably in the NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH circuit. Try NEUTRAL instead of PARK.

rockauto.com has a lot of the electrical parts you will need.

A twenty dollar starter motor is like a ten dollar suit: Wear Underwear.

I have a 92 Fleetwood Jamboree - probably similar setup to 95 Fleetwood Tioga.

The emergency switch on the dash connects the chassis batteries to the coach batteries via a solenoid on the firewall of the engine compartment. That solenoid is a small silver device which normally acts as a battery isolator - it separates the chassis/coach batteries when the engine isn't running. When you turn on the ignition switch it energizes the solenoid connecting the two sets of batteries ... if your chassis battery is dead the "emergency" switch will connect the coach batteries to the chassis batteries allowing you to start the rig. Lots of threads on this forum on how to test whether that solenoid is functioning properly - use the forum search feature.

The relay on the radiator is something unique to ford - sounds like it needs to be replaced and that's the first thing I would do to see if your problem gets resolved. Once you know that's working then you can move on to determine whether you have issue with starter or starter relay.

Hope this helps.

I have several ignition system/wiring pages scanned from my Haynes Manual. If you want me to send them to you, send me a Private Message with your eMail ID.

I also have diagrams for 1996 of the Starting and Charging systems, from one of the professional sources.

From what I see, what I remember, there are heavy cables into (from battery positive) and out of (to starter motor) that Starter Relay (fender mounted "solenoid"). AND a smaller wire that feeds into the ignition switch. Yellow in the diagram I looked at. Be sure it's on the Battery terminal of that Solenoid, NOT on the Starter terminal.

Go http://www.irv2.com/forums/f23/ and post your needs. I'm sure SubFord will have what you need. He is the go to Ford guy.

Richard

Could help to know the Model Year of the Ford Chassis. Your "1995 Coach" might be on a 1994 Ford Chassis. If it came with an original Owner Manual, the Year on that is probably right. Better, the Build Date on the Ford sticker in the door frame. For example, our "2003 Jayco" is on an E450 where Ford's label says "Date 03/02" making it a 2002 chassis. Parts and wiring could be different.

The diagrams say the Starter "Relay" is in the Left side of the Engine Compartment. On ours, the Relay is on the Passenger Side, all but hidden by the Battery. It looks like two massive posts (From Battery and To Starter) and a single small terminal that a connector simply pushes onto. That wire should go HOT when you turn the Key to Start. If you put +12 to that little terminal on the Relay, it should close and operate the Starter.

That's a correction to my earlier reference to the Yellow Wire. If it's onto that little Push Terminal, it's the one that tells the Relay to Power the Starter. I had thought there was another wire, on the Battery Post of the Relay, that was the power feed to the rest of the chassis.

We've recently seen Ford OEM battery cables that lost contact within the terminals. Looked good but didn't work...

If it's killing "House" (also called "Coach") batteries, as MEX said, that's an additional system, additional problem. If you aren't disconnecting that Battery in Storage, some parasitic drain (like LPG detector) could be running it down. If you leave it plugged into shore power in storage, your Converter/Charger could be boiling the battery.

Thanks for the help and diagrams.
First priority is the starter circuit.
Found 3 relays involved.
0) "Isolator" (I assume added for motorhomes etc). Mounted on firwall. I assume signal from ignition switch (key on and start) will close the relay, connecting the car battery to the house battery. No information on wiring etc of this relay.

1) ignition switch sends 12V to 'starter relay' (at radiator support). That has big red 12V from battery, and the switched contact (smaller red wire) together in a "C" formed part. Signal wire (small, from ignition switch). GROUND is through contact of backside to radiator support

2) switched starter relay wire goes to "starter motor solenoid. Big red wire coming from battery. Solenoid closes to connect to battery. Ground is from housing contact to engine block.

Side note: When 'cranking' getting slower and slower, I ADDED a ground strap (for good measure, can't hurt) from one of the starter bolts to a nearby chassis bolt. Yesterday, I found this wire MELTED (still having continuity to ground).
This indicates that starter does NOT have good ground through the chassis/bolts (requiring additional amps to flow through the secondary add on wire, enough to melt it).

I removed the starter relay and tested, working fine.
I removed the starter, tested, working fine.

Next:
- clean starter relay contacts, backside and radiator support mounting area for good electrical contact
- clean starter contacts, BACKSIDE and engine block/bellhousing contact area for good electrical contact
- take both battery terminal clamps apart, clean and rewire

Need to find information on wiring the "isolator" relay.

I will double check, but I am pretty sure the Ford chassis is 1994 manufacturing year; not sure if there is a difference between 1995 and 1994.

Where is the MAIN engine to chassis ground on the 1994 7.5 liter Ford Econoline?
House battery goes to CHASSIS ground.
Not sure where drive battery ground goes to (chassis or engine).
Want to make sure that engine to chassis ground is good, too (doesn't do any good if starter to engine is good, and then bad engine to chassis (to battery) ground connection reducing the flow of amps).

Update: I determined that it must be bad ground of the starter to the engine. Took starter out, cleaned with wire brush. Also cleaned the engine/bell housing area. Installed. Starter works.

Now need to clean up all the wiring (will start a separate post).

With a rig of that age, I'd suggest to replace the stock engine electrical ground with a new strap. Make sure the contact areas are clean and cover the fasteners/contact area with a rust preventative. In fact, that is a good policy for all electrical connections.