1997 Kodiak 22+2 Fiver - power control panel

[darksidefive]

I have a 1997 Kodiak 22+2 Five. The power control panel is all combined 120V breakers, 6V fuses AGC type, and transformer charger. I have owned it for 5 years, and has always been a pain and literally requires a kick to make the connections work. So now is the time to fix the darn thing.

The unit is made by "System Monitors Inc" in Winnipeg Canada - no longer in operation.

I tore into it, and there are two suspect parts. A relay and a small electronic board with a LM339N comparator, a "short stop", and a small external coil of wire (perhaps a low ohm, high wattage resistor).

I called the local RV shop and they said to replace all the guts with a multi-stage power converter. However, I just dont have the $360CAD to replace it. We figure a 45amp unit should do it.

Is there a cheaper option out there?

thanks for the help.

[darksidefive]

Thanks for the help guys. First problem was corroded contacts on the transfer relay. However, a couple of the 12V circuits are connected through the circuit board. It seems that this thing works intermittently, even after fixing all connections. I think I will just end my grief and get the PD9245 converter.

thanks again.

[DrewE]

Best converter, for one place, will ship to Canada, and they have e.g. the very well regarded PD 9245 for $157.50 at the moment, or about $200 Canadian.

On your existing unit, I would tend to suspect a bad or a loose connection somewhere rather than a failed component in as much as giving it a thump makes it work. That sounds like a mechanical problem rather than an electronic one as such (although at their heart pretty much all electronic problems are mechanical, if you want to get pedantic enough). Sketching out the circuit, analyzing it to figure out how it is intended to work so much as possible, and then figuring out where things are stopping working might help track down the problem area...though it could be just as productive to make sure all the connections are tight and all the solder joints look solid and not cold and not cracked and so forth.

[westend]

Sure, you could add in a DC power supply for your low voltage and a small load center for the 120 V supply. You'll need to keep an eye on your batteries so the DC supply doesn't boil them dry.