2008 Springdale power issues

[springdalejk]

Hello RV net,

It's my first time posting here, I hope to frequent this forum in the future!

I have an issue with my 2008 Keystone Springdale (291RK SSR) regarding power.

I'll try to keep this short and sweet:

My wife and I (and cat) have lived in this trailer for over a year, plugged into 110v (using a 110v to 30a adapter) on the side of a house, running everything with only occasional power issues

Yesterday (over 100 degrees!) our AC unit was having one heck of a time keeping up with everything. We decided it would be a good time to finally switch over to our 30 amp connection, which was done on a good outlet with a single 30a cable to the trailer.

After doing this, initially, none of our power was working.

We flipped the breakers and checked the fuses (inside, on a WFCO 8955 series power center) and issues persisted

We tried switching back to our previous connection, same issue.

We can verify that both connections cause the same issue, so we think the issue is with the trailer. This was confirmed with my electrician friend who checked that everything had power.

After talking to a RV repair shop over the phone, we discovered two things: our trailer NEEDS to be plugged into the RV battery (they used the metaphor of it being a cushion for the RV power), and that the power supply in the power center is fried.

I ordered a new power supply, but plugging in a good battery, and using trickle charging, allows my lights and the AC fan to turn on, but the AC cooling will not kick in AND if I plug into any outlet with a surge protector with an internet modem plugged into it, this will flip the breakers of the MAIN and COM.

As of this point, I'm excited that the lights work, the fridge works (although I spoiled all my food), and the fan on the ac unit works. But I need that AC to blow cold air, I can hear it making a low rumbling noise like it's trying to turn on the cool element but it can't do it.

To any one who reads this, thank you so much for your time. I'm exhausted, been working on this for the past 24 hours and only slept about 3 hours last night up trying to figure it out. I'm sure I didn't write this perfectly, please let me know what I can clarify for any assistance.

Thank you kindly.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Time to yell for help. I am rather experienced, and I have to unclog my head and do diagnostics by-the-numbers. To expect someone not disciplined in the subject to remain safe and secure is just not rational.

There is an obvious communication breakdown here and it is not your responsibility or your fault.

Electrically feeding a 30-amp RV calls for specific size wire, and circuit breaker. This is quite apart from troubleshooting what went wrong inside your rig.

If you decide to diagnose yourself, first before anything else, go to the store and purchase NITRILE dishwashing household gloves. This will protect your hands from 120 volt accidents.

You MUST learn how to post images on this forum if this is going to become do-it-yourself diagnostics. Let's start with the gloves and the picture posting.

[time2roll]

springdalejk wrote:
Bought a voltmeter. The 30a outlet is 240V. This is the problem.

Can I convert this to 110 somehow?

Stay unplugged until a meter says 120 volts.

Since it was a 50 amp connection... turn off power, remove the connector, remove the hot from the neutral and cap with a wire nut, attach the neutral to the neutral, reattach connector and cover plate. Verify 120 volts.

I assume it was a NEMA 14-50R. If it was a 10-50 with no neutral you need to call a real electrician to pull or swap wires.

http://www.myrv.us/electric/Pg/30amp_Service.htm

[drsteve]

springdalejk wrote:

2oldman wrote:
Voltmeter desperately needed.

Bought a voltmeter. The 30a outlet is 240V. This is the problem.

Can I convert this to 110 somehow?

Yes. Your bigger problem is how badly your TT's electrical system has been damaged by the 240v surge.

[springdalejk]

2oldman wrote:
Voltmeter desperately needed.

Bought a voltmeter. The 30a outlet is 240V. This is the problem.

Can I convert this to 110 somehow?

[2oldman]

Voltmeter desperately needed.

[springdalejk]

time2roll wrote:
Did the electrician pull a new dedicated circuit?
If so is it connected to a double breaker or a single? (s/b single)

There's nothing on the other outlet that the circuit is shared with, and the outlet has a double breaker. It was previously a 50a connection, that 'supposedly' was changed to 120v 30a outlet. Figuring that out now with the guy that installed it.

[time2roll]

Did the electrician pull a new dedicated circuit?
If so is it connected to a double breaker or a single? (s/b single)

[springdalejk]

time2roll wrote:
Please verify you have 120 vac in the RV and 12.6 to 13.8 vdc on the battery.

12v coming out of the battery for sure, but the volts to the RV are the question here.

[springdalejk]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Whoa. Minefield.

You "operated" your entire unit A/C included (occasionally) off of a 15-amp 120vac receptacle? For a year?

Guesswork ain't gonna cut it.

You have got to use a handheld voltmeter and trace down where the power entering the rig "runs into a snag".

It is quite probable that low voltage has damaged various electrical systems and parts. note "probable" different from "possible"

What is the limit of your electrical troubleshooting expertise? What electrical testing instruments and repair tools do you have at your disposal?

Providing comprehensive diagnostic technique to someone not able to utilize it is an exercise in futility.

So starting with those basic questions...

I think you hit the nail on the head here. From what I can tell, the original setup was 110/120v (I'll be honest I'm unsure what the outlet is, but it's a standard US house outlet) to a 30a adapter, so yes, we were only able to pull the 15a that the outlet could put out.

My electrician friend and I were able to verify that (with voltage detector, and voltmeter in hand), power goes in to the power supply, but not out the other side. The battery is pumping in 12V so everything should operate but.. it doesn't. To your point, it is probable that something fried, but finding it is the hard part.

I think I'm in "call an RV repair/electrician" territory, do you have any suggestions for other types of services I could reach out to?

[springdalejk]

2oldman wrote:
I don't follow this. What is "our" 30a connection?

My wife and I have access to my parents 30a outlet in their garage. We bought a long 30a cable that we had been anxious to set up to stop from using a couple extension cables with our previous setup.

[springdalejk]

wa8yxm wrote:
First there is no such thing as a 110 to 30 adapter. 30 amps is 110-120 volts.
What you were using was, depending on your point of view a 30-15 amp adapter or a 15-30. BOth ends are the same voltage 120.

Now, the outlet you plugged into.. Was that for a Dryer, or some power tool originally>

If so it was likely a 240 volt outlet and you fried everything.

Oops. To clarify, we went from a 110v outlet plug, to an adapter that our 30 amp prong coming out of the trailer could connect to. This was given to us (my wife and I) from the initial owner who used it to plug the trailer into a standard wall outlet.

I'm thinking that you're right about the outlet we plugged into with this new cable, it is a power tool outlet, but it might be sending out 240 volts... Can this be converted to the proper voltage?

[time2roll]

Please verify you have 120 vac in the RV and 12.6 to 13.8 vdc on the battery.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Whoa. Minefield.

You "operated" your entire unit A/C included (occasionally) off of a 15-amp 120vac receptacle? For a year?

Guesswork ain't gonna cut it.

You have got to use a handheld voltmeter and trace down where the power entering the rig "runs into a snag".

It is quite probable that low voltage has damaged various electrical systems and parts. note "probable" different from "possible"

What is the limit of your electrical troubleshooting expertise? What electrical testing instruments and repair tools do you have at your disposal?

Providing comprehensive diagnostic technique to someone not able to utilize it is an exercise in futility.

So starting with those basic questions...

[2oldman]

I can't explain why things quit, but I can offer that it sounds like your a/c isn't getting enough voltage to start the compressor. Check your voltage at the coach.

springdalejk wrote:
. We decided it would be a good time to finally switch over to our 30 amp connection, which was done on a good outlet with a single 30a cable to the

I don't follow this. What is "our" 30a connection?