2014 Onan 4000 fuel leaking from carb

Most likely a foreign object lodged in the needle/seat float shutoff. If possible, remove the bowl from the carb. Then drop the float w/ needle and clean. This may not be possible on newer models, and in your case

Stunts,

So much here depends on the shop doing the warranty. If it is an RV dealer, that may be a problem. Most hate doing any warranty as it doesn't pay well and then it takes forever to get that. If you can get the carburetor off without showing any damage, do it. Clean the needle and seat and put it back together.

If that doesn't get it, then take is somewhere and be ready to call or drop by every other day after the first week and every day after that first week. Don't be afraid to suggest that the shop call Onan.
Don't be afraid to call Onan. Don't hesitate to get Onan/Cummins involved. They have a reputation and a price point that they try to maintain.

That is what I would do. They might not like it, but it is the job that they signed up to do.

Matt

Onan stated years ago. They will not cover under warranty. Carb repair or replacement. Due to lack of use.An almost two year old unit with 18 hours is lack of use.

When was the last time you ran this genset?

You topped the gas tank nearly a year ago. How much gas and how old was already in there? I think you're past the time span where StaBil will protect you.

Is this ONAN a 4KY-something? Always post the Model Number and Spec Code. Ours, for example, is Model 4KY Spec K.

If you have a 4KY, it's "possible" to get the float bowl off without removing the carburetor. You have to separate some wiring to even start and it's a slow go with a wrench on the bowl "nut." Not all that bad to remove the whole carb, but you need a T30 Torx bit, a 10MM socket and a lot of patience. ABOVE ALL you need pix and drawings of how the Throttle and Choke linkage, plus a little Spring on one of them, fall in place. Fail to do that and you'll be miserable.

If you take the float bowl off, you should be able to clean Needle and Seat. More likely, the float pivot stuck in the dropped position and you can clean that. Then... IF you've been running it regularly and it ran OK last month or so, you may get it running again and dodged an expensive bullet. Those carbs are around $200 and so difficult to clean the idle passages that many of not most just get replaced.

You could try the "old days" method,.....beat on the bowl. I didn't say that !!
But in reality, tap on it, could just unstick something that mite be stuck.

I'll get a model number. I'll have to wait until next Friday since I'm working all this week. I store it undercover at a friend's house who has acreage, so it's not as simple as walking outside my house.

I topped the gas tank in August, which is 6 months. The previous top off was in April. I filled about 1/2 tank in August but I'm not sure how much I filled in April. Probably not much, unfortunately. I'd like to offload all the gas, but have no idea what to do with it. 30 gallons worth in a 40 gallon tank. That would take forever to burn through in a lawnmower. I just know I don't want to use it in my truck since I have direct injection. If I cut it with some new gas (say a 1:1 ratio), do you think it might be ok for an older truck? My friend has an 03 V-8 Dakota and he's said he would be willing to use the gas up, but I don't want to mess up his engine too.

I got the unit in August of 14, so I thought 18 hours was right on schedule doing 1 hour a month. Instructions say to run 1 hour a month with 30 minutes loaded. Last ran in January. Going forward, I'm not going to put nearly so much gas in the toy hauler unless I'm positive I'm going to use it.

I might already have the torx bit. I do have the socket. I will have assistance this weekend. It's kind of funky because the carb is in the side. I haven't encountered an engine like that. I'm used to auto engines.

My plan is that I'll first use an inspection mirror to look inside carb and see if I can spot anything obvious. I'll get the manual out as well and take pictures of the linkages before I do anything. Then I'll try "tapping" the bowl first. If I get it running, I'll load it and run it for a few extra hours. If it still doesn't run and I think I can get it off, I'll do that next. If it looks beyond my skill, I'll just take it to the shop. I looked up Onan repair shops from a previous thread I found and it looks like there is a shop much closer to me than the Wood Village Camping World.

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. At least I now know where to start. I'll update this later.

Most likely you have some trash in the carb. Clean it out and you will be ok.The one hour a month rule. Is to try and prevent varnish build up you get with the new gas. Depending on where you live. The gas can go bad fast.Storing it for over thirty days can cause problems.

I completely disagree that even 1 yr old gas will give any kind of a problem.
But what in the world does that have to do w/ the carb leaking gas ??

But another trick that almost always fixes a needle valve leaking,....
Get it running, then shut off the fuel supply till it dies.
Then prime the pump till it quits pumping. That process has a very good chance of washing any foreign material out of the needle and seat that is probably causing it to leak. Hopefully it will be good when you restart it.

Will give it a shot. Thanks.

As I said it depends on where you live and the blend you have. I have seen gas down here go bad in 30 days. I have pulled carbs apart that had stuck floats or needles stuck. Also have seen just trash clogging one up.