30 amp or 50 amp

First, find out what size wire you have. As other note, you will likely have to increase the size unless some forward-looking thinker ran bigger wire.

Two same answers:
1: If you are having a proper RV outlet installed. go with 50 Reasons are two fold
1A: Many times I have read (and once prevented) of an electrican wiring a TT-30 for 240 volts... Now that one the customer (And electrician) got lucky cause I got to him in time (While he was purchasing the outlet).

1B the cost of upgrading from 30 to 50 is far more than the difference.

Now in yoru case

At the RV end you can either install a standard Park type box (20-30-50) or you can use the 50 amp splitter This splits a 50 amp into two 30's Or you can make a 50 amp "Splitter" that feeds one leg to the RV via a 30 amp breker and the other lead is split between a pair of 15/20 Duplex via breakers for each (how I'd recommend doing it)

Or make up a 30 to 15/20 box with the proper 15 amp breakers

use this for the Outdoor Electric stuff like the grill.

Would it be better to have the power company plant a pole and run a service line out to a stand alone breaker box?

Hi,

Using a 50 amp breaker is a really bad idea and may void your house insurance.

Voltage drop is the problem. 300 feet requires thicker wire. Artum Snowbird has given an excellent explanation.

However, you may wish to consider using an autoformer to boost the voltage. As a side benefit the grill will warm up much more quickly. Do not do this for hours and hours at a time.

My Sola Basic has three layers of boost at 110 (10%), 100 (20%), and 90 (30%).

If you were doing "continuous duty" then the best solution is thicker wire in the 300 foot run.

Artum Snowbird wrote:
What actually happens is a bit more complicated. Try thinking about it this way. You have 30 amps at 120 volts available at the breaker panel. 3600 watts. Now if you were really close to the panel, you would have almost that much left for your griddle and A/C. When you have things in series, you have voltage drop. In your case, the things you have plugged in in the camper is one thing, and the wire feeding those things is another. So, the voltage drop along the feed line becomes important. As your current draw in the camper goes up, the voltage drop in the wire feed goes up as well. So, perhaps out of the desired 120 volts, you only have 100 left.

So now your A/C starts up, and it's motor needs 120 volts to run well. It's only getting 100. It tries to run, but the current goes up, and the wires feeding it get hotter, and the voltage drop in the wires gets larger, until finally your A/C motor and fridge motor burn out.

So, how to fix it? Well, adding a 50 amp breaker will most certainly cause real damage. The only way to ensure you have adequate voltage at the camper itself is to increase the size of the feed wires. That gets expensive fast, but will solve your problem.

If you have 30 amps in a No 10 wire for 300 feet you are losing almost 18 volts in the wire. If you go to No 6 you are only losing 7 volts, and No 4 is only 4.5 volts. That is your solution. And I am an electrician.

This is wonderful explanation and simple to follow along with.

Are asking if you can change the 30 amp breaker in your RV to a 50 amp? Or if you can change the 30 amp breaker at your house to a 50 amp?

If your RV has a 30 amp breaker in it, then changing the house breaker to 50 amp will do nothing for you. You are limited to 30 amps by the RV breaker. And you do not want to change the RV breaker to 50 amps.

As stated above, you need larger wire for that 300’ run. Have you checked your voltage level in the RV? Probably dropping too low with those things running at the same time.

Here is a handy calculator to see how it works yourself.

Voltage Loss Calculator

What actually happens is a bit more complicated. Try thinking about it this way. You have 30 amps at 120 volts available at the breaker panel. 3600 watts. Now if you were really close to the panel, you would have almost that much left for your griddle and A/C. When you have things in series, you have voltage drop. In your case, the things you have plugged in in the camper is one thing, and the wire feeding those things is another. So, the voltage drop along the feed line becomes important. As your current draw in the camper goes up, the voltage drop in the wire feed goes up as well. So, perhaps out of the desired 120 volts, you only have 100 left.

So now your A/C starts up, and it's motor needs 120 volts to run well. It's only getting 100. It tries to run, but the current goes up, and the wires feeding it get hotter, and the voltage drop in the wires gets larger, until finally your A/C motor and fridge motor burn out.

So, how to fix it? Well, adding a 50 amp breaker will most certainly cause real damage. The only way to ensure you have adequate voltage at the camper itself is to increase the size of the feed wires. That gets expensive fast, but will solve your problem.

If you have 30 amps in a No 10 wire for 300 feet you are losing almost 18 volts in the wire. If you go to No 6 you are only losing 7 volts, and No 4 is only 4.5 volts. That is your solution. And I am an electrician.

You need a lower gauge (thicker) wire to cover that 300' distance. Yes, a 50 amp service will let more power into your trailer to run more items. A struggling A/C, due to low voltage, will damage it.