4700 generac generator cutting off

The foam is sound deadening material. I would not put it back, just because of what’s happened with yours.

That type of egg-crate foam is not the best choice for the environment inside the enclosure anyway. The adhesive tends to fail, as yours did, and the foam itself breaks down over time and starts falling apart. Dense fiberglass or rock wool with a reinforced foil facing would work better, or one of the asphalt based automotive sound absorbing sheets.

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Okay gentlemen, I have an update on my generator problem. Since yall started making me think outside the box on this issue this is what I came up with. I started thinking of possible over heating concern. I stuck my fingers as far as I could in the , what i am thinking, air inlet on slot on the bottom of generator feeling around. I pulled out a piece of egg crate looking foam,say 4x6, laying on the floor,on the flat side you could see where it looked like its been pressed against what appeared to be a metal grate. I put my phone as far as i could in the intake slot and took a picture. I am thinking this foam piece got sucked up against the fan grate and caused air flow blockage causing the generator to over heat with the added stress of running the ac. I ran the generator with the ac on after removing the foam for approx 35-40 minutes with no issue. I looked up a parts diagram and found the foam is supposed to be attached to the top of the air intake box. Question to ya'll , run it with no foam, I dont why its there, or try and install a new one? Thanks again for all the help.

Also check the coil, heat will cause a failing coil to reduce the spark to the plugs. Check you manual for the proper ohm readings.

my generac would overheat and shutdown. opened the gen panel and put a fan blowing on it. problem solved

It’s worth a try. The HTO switch is the easier one to replace of the two. It’s just set into a spot on the engine, and won’t leak oil when you remove it. The LOP switch actually has oil in it, and a little will leak out when you remove it.

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Since the switches may be original and are not to expensive ,would it be advisable to just replace both switches.or is that over kill?

That generator doesn’t display error codes.

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What's the error code when it stops? That will tell you what the issue is.

It’s unlikely the valve clearance is causing that problem. How many hours are on the generator? The valve lash on your unit was to be checked after the first 50 hours, and every 500 hours after that.

If the generator engine is shutting itself off, it’s more likely that it’s due to low oil pressure or overheating. On your unit, the Low Oil Pressure and High Temperature Oil switches are out in the open, next to the oil filter.



Now, what I’d be doing is trying to determine if the engine oil pressure COULD be low, or the unit COULD be overheating. If the oil level is correct, the oil pressure is PROBABLY not low.

Checking for overheating is going to take a little more work. Are all the enclosure covers in place? Is anything blocking the airflow? This is an air cooled engine, and airflow is critical. The HTO switch closes at 293* F, and the normal running oil temperature inside an enclosure like yours is not far below that. It wouldn’t take much airflow blockage to make it run hotter. So check for dirt, debris, insulation, etc that could be blocking airflow. Both in and out of the enclosure.

Also, those switches CAN be faulty. I’ve owned at least three Generac units, and all of them use the same HTO switch, part # 094090, just like your unit. I have a new one in my garage now, because my home standby generator needed one a couple years ago. After determining the switch was faulty, when I removed it for replacement, it fell apart in my hands.

The Generac 3600 generator in my camper also needs its HTO switch replaced (same switch) because it was behaving very much like yours is. Unfortunately, I can’t get to mine without removing the generator from the camper, so that switch is unplugged until I get time to replace it.

In fact, both of those switches (LOP and HTO) can be unplugged for troubleshooting, as long as you understand what risk that exposes you to. On yours, I would probably rig up some alternate means of monitoring the temperature if I were going to unplug the HTO switch. And remember, on your unit, the enclosure covers need to be on for proper airflow.

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Should be able to. A competent mechanic can do it in minutes.