50 amp, 240 volt hookup without equipment ground

Dave H M wrote:
Since we are off and on a tangent - what learjet posted is fool proof. i have one installed on my service box that is marketed by Square D, since that is the brand of my service.

google them up and read. If we had a lever to work everything this world would be interesting. :W

it is impossible to backfeed with the lock out device.

Obviously someone can defeat almost anything, if they screw round with it enough.

Thanks, a voice of reason :)

Since we are off and on a tangent - what learjet posted is fool proof. i have one installed on my service box that is marketed by Square D, since that is the brand of my service.

google them up and read. If we had a lever to work everything this world would be interesting. :W

it is impossible to backfeed with the lock out device.

Obviously someone can defeat almost anything, if they screw round with it enough.

Mike
"photo not found"

This is what they installed. Also an outside mounted male, weatherproof, plug .

mikestock wrote:

... you need a transfer switch that is CSA or UL listed & labelled and it must be installed in accordance with the NEC (or CEC)...

If you are referring to my use of the DPDT description; This installation was done by a licensed contractor who purchased a permit and had it inspected. The switching device is four breakers with a mechanical interlock which closes two breakers when it opens the other two. Maybe my DPDT description was misunderstood.

Great to hear it was done by an electrician and an inspector passed it and it's not any kind of ordinary DPDT switch! Even licensed electricians can get sometimes get it wrong as anyone who has had or read about getting 240 volts into their 30 amp RV would know. I understand many (all?) states require generator setups to be permitted and inspected by the AHJ.

The breaker mechanical interlock ("slide bar") lockout like in Learjet's post may be approved and passed by an inspector but these things are awfully easily to defeat or remove intentionally or otherwise. There are numerous styles/versions of it. I'd rather see a manual transfer switch with a single handle.

mikestock wrote:
If I were a lineman, out there trying to restore your power I would be very uncomfortable, knowing there were 20 customers down the line with these self installed devices.
I know you feel comfortable with your installation, and it appears safe, but would you feel the same about the other 19.

If there's one thing that strikes fear in the hearts of linemen and electrical inspectors, it's the possibility of a backfeed.

If I were a lineman, out there trying to restore your power I would be very uncomfortable, knowing there were 20 customers down the line with these self installed devices.
I know you feel comfortable with your installation, and it appears safe, but would you feel the same about the other 19.

interlock device for your house main panel, easy to install and safe. This is GE's device made for the panel. Turn off what you don't want to feed with generator.

IF you google there are devices for just about any main panel.

here is my panel

If you're going to set up something so you can switch a load(s) between the power company and a generator, you need a transfer switch that is CSA or UL listed & labelled and it must be installed in accordance with the NEC (or CEC). Doing otherwise can create a serious safety hazard not only for a user but also the utility co. working on their equip. (You can't ever use an ordinary double pole switch).

If you are referring to my use of the DPDT description; This installation was done by a licensed contractor who purchased a permit and had it inspected. The switching device is four breakers with a mechanical interlock which closes two breakers when it opens the other two. Maybe my DPDT description was misunderstood.

If you're going to set up something so you can switch a load(s) between the power company and a generator, you need a transfer switch that is CSA or UL listed & labelled and it must be installed in accordance with the NEC (or CEC). Doing otherwise can create a serious safety hazard not only for a user but also the utility co. working on their equip. (You can't ever use an ordinary double pole switch).

Some info. with illustrations here.

There is a reasonably simple solution. I had an electrician rewire my lighting receptacles, including my fan for the central natural gas furnace and the 120v supply for the gas range. He carried the feeder through an adjacent 50 amp DPDT breaker box and ran 30 amp wiring to an outside box with male setup similar to the 30 amp input on a small rv. I also have a natural gas water heater, so my ac needs and minimal. The only things I can't run are the central air or clothes dryer. I can even run the microwave or clothes washer if I carefully allot power.

I simply plug my 30 amp extension cord to the plug from my twin 2000 Hondas, go inside and reverse the DPDT breaker box switch. This way I'm either feeding from the generators or the power company. No way for the two to ever meet.

Whenever the outage ends I throw the switch the other way. I have one isolated receptacle that comes directly from my outside power box. I plug a radio into that receptacle and turn it loud enough to wake us up. When the radio comes on, I know the power is restored.