AC heat element in Norcold Fridge

I have tried various rust blasters for 30 years. Rarely do they work, but you can only try. Doug

Removing the heating element can be a PIA - I would first do some basic testing to make sure it's necessary. Some norcold have an unused mounting sleeve (originally for DC heating element) - if you have one and your heating element really needs replacing consider just clipping off the old one (leave in place) and use the unused sleeve for the new one.

After some gentle tapping on the retaining tube with no success, I heated the tube with my ox/acetylene torch. It then took some extreme effort wiggling with pliers but out it came.

Richard

Thanks guys. I'll do some Ohm/Amp testing first and then gentle persuasion.

Deleted.

I kind of got "lucky" when mine "Failed" (During installation of a new cooling unit) Wires broke off so the tech popped in a new one from her stock.

Oh here is another thing.. I ordered a set of "Interior" fans from RV Cooling Unit Warehouse I think on Monday.. (not sure of exact date)

Installed 'em. fins now frost free (well most of 'em) fridge much cooler on same setting, Very happy.

The only issue is the instructions.. The web page said to run the power leads down the drain hose but on a Dometic I truly do not want to do that.. So I ran 'em to the interior light.. Worked great Will need to shorten 'em later. as I had to "wind up" excess cable. also lock it down somehow.

you can get 'em from multiple sources (Same price on Amzon by the way) but they work.

Lt46 wrote:
I'm in the process of troubleshooting a failed AC heat element in my Norcold 9182 fridge. Before I dig out my test meter I wanted to see if the element would move in its mounting sleeve. Mine appears to be rusted solid and will not twist. Has anyone come across this and how did you free up the element? I wonder if a soaking of PB Blaster would be OK to use? Any thoughts?
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Naval Jelly has ALWAYS worked for me to dissolve rust. Since it's a "jelly" instead of a liquid, you just have be patient and wait a bit on it eventually penetrating in between tight fitting rusted parts.

We actually just had a code for this same issue yesterday, tested and heating element tested good and manual indicated it was probably the circuit board. We looked and ours was 8 yrs since it was replaced. Thought yep, probably. Hubby decided to check circuit board for anything obvious - unplugged everything , 110 and 12 volt. Board looked okay, when he reinstalled, and plugged back in , all works fine - the inside light that had stopped working is even back on now.