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add a deck to class c

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

Has anyone added an aluminum frame work on the top of their rv?

The purpose would be to increase the area available for solar panels.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.
7 REPLIES 7

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
JaxDad,

Thanks--rv is 28 feet 5 inches and a class c. It has a rubber roof of some kind.

I won't need to angle--but a quick release might be worth while.

What is a 4t deg (I don't understand the t)?


4t is what you get when try to type 45 on an iPad without enough caffeineโ€ฆ LOL

I would use 2 sets of quick release latches to both allow angling (maximum sun on winter days when itโ€™s low in the sky) and easy removal.

It will be easier to match body width and mount the legs atop the walls, that way any weight (and or snow load) would be carried by the wall not the roof. Then adjust fore / aft length to match square footage required.

There is aluminum extrusions available that you could buy cut to length and bolt together Mechano set-like.

n0arp
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know of anyone with a class C, but I know of several people with class As and fifth wheels that have raised frames for solar panels on them. We have a truck camper that has one. No welding, but made of dimensional aluminum bolted with stainless hardware. I carry a welder on the road (I built this at a site), but it's flux core so won't do aluminum.



We've put >10K on it at highway speeds without issue.
2000 Country Coach Magna 40',
4380W solar, 22.8kWh LiFePO4@48V, 450AH AGM@12V
2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 2.0T, cloaked on 37x13.5s

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
JaxDad,

Thanks--rv is 28 feet 5 inches and a class c. It has a rubber roof of some kind.

I won't need to angle--but a quick release might be worth while.

What is a 4t deg (I don't understand the t)?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
Off the top of my head, Iโ€™d say a 6 post (3 down each side) frame and a flat rack style frame with a quick release on each side so the rack can be angled left, angled right, left flat or removed. The length of the rack (front to back) could be determined by the number of sq. ft. of panels needed. A 4t deg. air dam at the leading edge will keep it safe at highway speeds.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
JaxDad wrote:
I welded an aluminum rooftop frame for a friends C so that he transport his kayaks.

What info are you looking for?


How to design and find someone to make a rack that won't rip off at highway speeds. I would love to cover the entire roof with panels. It would need to have a "hatch" to service the air conditioner (if it fails someday....).

I'm thinking a wind dam at the front would be a good plan.

Kudos to you for being able to weld aluminum.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
I welded an aluminum rooftop frame for a friends C so that he transport his kayaks.

What info are you looking for?

wanderingaimles
Explorer
Explorer
Don't know if this can give you any ideas, but I once saw a van at a county fair, think it was a Dodge version of the Sprinter type, he had a couple of large panels on the roof, and two more attached end to end on each side, hinged bracket at the roofline of the van, so they folded pretty flat to the sides while travelling and basically became short canopy awnings when he parked and extended legs to hold the outside edges up.