Advice on deep cycle setup?
Hello, I have a Safari van that I've converted into a camper. I replaced the starting battery with a Duracell Ultra Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Battery that cost $105 (got it at batteries ...
Forum Discussion
I have compiled what I think are all of Mex's instructions on the alternator swap (below).
I am printing and heading to the parts store to attempt this. Worse case scenario - I pull the old alternator out and put it back in.
Best case - I have a new alternator and am in bed on time tonight (8:30).
EDIT: I decided not to go for it tonight. I want to wait until I have more time so I can do it without rushing. (See, I'm learning :))
L
You must add a wire from the battery stud to battery positive direct. Six AWG would be ideal. When I say MUST it does not mean perhaps. You WILL fry the factory fusible link if you don't.
Check at the parts counter for a spacer for the alternator SPOOL FOOT
Bolt if needed
You will need to add a piggyback wire from the alternator output stud to the harness + connector near the battery
8 gauge wire will do fine. The alternator stud calls for a 1/4" ring terminal
Even the stock alternator benefits from the wire gauge improvement
Check at the parts counter for the proper length drive belt.
Believe it or not going blind into an alternator project about belt size is one of the big time & hassle hangups.
Technically you can do the alternator and bracket swap in about 2 hours. Leave the new 8 gauge wire until the next "day's off". The fasteners are all metric.
When the new alternator arrives, count the ridges in the serpentine belt grooves. Five or six.
They have to match the rest of the pulleys and the serpentine belt. The pulleys are interchangeable. The nuts are removed and replaced with a pneumatic impact wrench. Use a 15/16" standard socket as a black impact tool socket will not fit in a tight area.
Prepare the power cable.
Use eight gauge wire. It will in essence parallel the existing wire that runs from the alternator battery stud to the most convenient connection point near the battery positive terminal. To clarify, this adds a 2nd wire and two eight gauge wires equals 5 gauge which will pass 140 amps no strain. The eyelet terminal on the alternator stud is 1/4" ring terminal. Use zip ties to bond the new wire adjacent to the existing wire harness. Remember, this wire is always alive so disconnect the negative cable at the battery before starting work.
If the rear alternator housing half is "clocked" to the wrong position, making the voltage regulator plug inaccessible or difficult, you can rotate the housing yourself.
Get a paper clip and straighten a full inch length. It's got to be reasonably straight -- use pliers.
On the rear of the CS144, find the pin hole very near to the rear bearing.
Carefully worm the paper clip into the hole. Try to leverage the tip of the paper clip toward the bearing while gently pushing. There are two brushes to fit through plus the brush holder. A total of about once inch. If the paper clip does not worm it's way the full inch, stop.
If successful, the four housing bolts can be removed. They use a 5/16" wrench and are usually tightened pretty tight. Remove them.
Using a medium flat blade screwdriver approach the crack in the case halves. Leverage the case halves apart. The center laminated steel ring assembly must stay with the rear housing -- opposite the pulley side.
When it appears that it is loose pull the case halves apart. Look inside the rear half. Do you see the white plastic block? Is one or both of the brushes popped out of the brush holder? Use a "L" shaped tool to push the deepest brush down until the paper clip finds it's way through the hole in the brush. Not too deep with the paper clip -- you don't want to block the last brush spring from being pushed down.
When assembled be certain to pull out the paper clip.
I am printing and heading to the parts store to attempt this. Worse case scenario - I pull the old alternator out and put it back in.
Best case - I have a new alternator and am in bed on time tonight (8:30).
EDIT: I decided not to go for it tonight. I want to wait until I have more time so I can do it without rushing. (See, I'm learning :))
L
You must add a wire from the battery stud to battery positive direct. Six AWG would be ideal. When I say MUST it does not mean perhaps. You WILL fry the factory fusible link if you don't.
Check at the parts counter for a spacer for the alternator SPOOL FOOT
Bolt if needed
You will need to add a piggyback wire from the alternator output stud to the harness + connector near the battery
8 gauge wire will do fine. The alternator stud calls for a 1/4" ring terminal
Even the stock alternator benefits from the wire gauge improvement
Check at the parts counter for the proper length drive belt.
Believe it or not going blind into an alternator project about belt size is one of the big time & hassle hangups.
Technically you can do the alternator and bracket swap in about 2 hours. Leave the new 8 gauge wire until the next "day's off". The fasteners are all metric.
When the new alternator arrives, count the ridges in the serpentine belt grooves. Five or six.
They have to match the rest of the pulleys and the serpentine belt. The pulleys are interchangeable. The nuts are removed and replaced with a pneumatic impact wrench. Use a 15/16" standard socket as a black impact tool socket will not fit in a tight area.
Prepare the power cable.
Use eight gauge wire. It will in essence parallel the existing wire that runs from the alternator battery stud to the most convenient connection point near the battery positive terminal. To clarify, this adds a 2nd wire and two eight gauge wires equals 5 gauge which will pass 140 amps no strain. The eyelet terminal on the alternator stud is 1/4" ring terminal. Use zip ties to bond the new wire adjacent to the existing wire harness. Remember, this wire is always alive so disconnect the negative cable at the battery before starting work.
If the rear alternator housing half is "clocked" to the wrong position, making the voltage regulator plug inaccessible or difficult, you can rotate the housing yourself.
Get a paper clip and straighten a full inch length. It's got to be reasonably straight -- use pliers.
On the rear of the CS144, find the pin hole very near to the rear bearing.
Carefully worm the paper clip into the hole. Try to leverage the tip of the paper clip toward the bearing while gently pushing. There are two brushes to fit through plus the brush holder. A total of about once inch. If the paper clip does not worm it's way the full inch, stop.
If successful, the four housing bolts can be removed. They use a 5/16" wrench and are usually tightened pretty tight. Remove them.
Using a medium flat blade screwdriver approach the crack in the case halves. Leverage the case halves apart. The center laminated steel ring assembly must stay with the rear housing -- opposite the pulley side.
When it appears that it is loose pull the case halves apart. Look inside the rear half. Do you see the white plastic block? Is one or both of the brushes popped out of the brush holder? Use a "L" shaped tool to push the deepest brush down until the paper clip finds it's way through the hole in the brush. Not too deep with the paper clip -- you don't want to block the last brush spring from being pushed down.
When assembled be certain to pull out the paper clip.
