alternator

If you want to try the repair route first, why not yank the bad bearing, it should have a number on it to identify it for replacement?

I would first google starter/alternator repair near me

Ok so when I last did this Google was.. Not.. (but the shop was near enough I passed it on my way to church).

If you are not up to bearing work pull the thing and take it to the shop. takes less than 30 minutes to re-build it.

In my case it was not the bearing but other parts. way cheaper then even a rebuilt from auto-parts place. every bit as good as new .

Model number does not matter. Whether it's a 3G, 4G or 6G

The universal bearing is a part number 6303

ALWAYS replace the rear bearing part number A6000

In my fussy likes and dislikes, I prefer the

NTN brand bearing

LUA model.


Buy new brushes in a brush holder too.

If it is original 2001 I would simply buy a new alternator.
Best of luck with the self rebuild.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Model number does not matter. Whether it's a 3G, 4G or 6G

The universal bearing is a part number 6303

ALWAYS replace the rear bearing part number A6000

In my fussy likes and dislikes, I prefer the

NTN brand bearing

LUA model.


Buy new brushes in a brush holder too.

Ahhhhhhh, Mr. Wanderer, did you make a typo? The universal front alternator bearing is a 6203DD........

Richard

Bearing does not care about mounting style



Your alternator is highly likely to be a 3G 130-amp model.



If the copper slip rings have wear grooves have a rebuilder REPLACE them which demands truing them in a lathe.

Use a TORKS T-10 SOCKET with ratchet on those tight voltage regulator screws and a 15/16" socket with an impact gun on the front rotor pulley shaft

The 2G IAR was the very very very last Ford alternator to use a 6203. The 3,4,6 G NEVER used a 6203. The 6303 is an absolute certainty.

Even the larger (before the 3G series) 70-90-100 amp large frame uses a 6203 but never ever ever the 6303 in the earlier alternators

After a few thousand 3,4,6 G remans I sorta know this stuff.

And one last thing all the alternators use color coding on the regulators. Do not substitute a different color regulator or mighty interesting things will happen to a digital dashboard.

And the suffix for ANY of these bearings is 2RS meaning sealed both sides. The rear A6000 XX has a pair of Teflon bands on the outside. They fit better.

Some European alternators used a 6202 DRE bearing like the Bosch which is utterly stupid with a serpentine belt tensioner. Good bearings use a BLUE-GREEN polyurea grease like MOBIL 7.

addendum.

The suffix for metal shielded and not plastic sealed bearings is ZZ. ZZ bearings are definitely not suitable for alternators because of metal and graphite contamination.

Another way of automatically specifying the correct type of bearing is to say ELECTRIC MOTOR BEARING.

In my rebuilding, if memory serves me correctly I was paying three times the price for NTN LUA. Saint Mary's Carbon in Pennsylvania was custom making my copper graphite brushes in lots of 1 mil per. Far less abrasive and they were a minimum of 1/8" longer than OEM with double the mil-spec brush lead. 50-amp 1000 volt rectifiers and MOSFET voltage regulators. I had some warranties. All of them were untouched OEM Ford rotors that broke a wire lead on top of the rotor coils. EPA forbidden epoxy dip and an outside oven-cured, that nonsense.

End comments

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
And the suffix for ANY of these bearings is 2RS meaning sealed both sides. The rear A6000 XX has a pair of Teflon bands on the outside. They fit better.

Some European alternators used a 6202 DRE bearing like the Bosch which is utterly stupid with a serpentine belt tensioner. Good bearings use a BLUE-GREEN polyurea grease like MOBIL 7.

OK I'm out of date on the front bearings but DD was also used by some manufactures for double seal bearings.
6203DD
6303DD


Richard