Ammeter

Trends and tendencies is hard to be when simplicity and utmost low cost is concerned. But accuracy of readings which includes -repeatability- and stability is crucial. For a shock, read some of the Amazon reviews that were posted about the DROK.

That measuring device is rated up to 33 volts but the display power can only tolerate 12 - 24 volts. Having a separate (yellow) sense lead is intelligent. Too many two wire LED voltmeters have the display "robbing" the measuring circuit. This is caused by undersized circuitry which is a flagship error of Chinese engineering. Some of those "bargain" two wire voltmeters have THIRTY gauge leads and circuitry with even less ampacity than that.

As far as connecting the DROK three-wire is concerned it only needs to be connected to a circuit that does not volt-slump when that's circuit's load is enabled. Meaning the meter leads need to see precise battery voltage.

Connect the red and yellow wires together for polarity positive. Connect the black wire to chassis negative. For weekend use the meter amp hour consumption is negligible - a flooded battery self discharges at a greater rate.

I think that I will try it with just the volt gauge. If I have the same or more every morning, I will be in good shape. If not? Lower usage or up the input. Thanks to all who offered suggestions about the various testers and meters.

Volt gauge is insufficient?

pianotuna wrote:
It is always better to give all the parameters when asking a question. Almost no one has zero parasitic loads. If the OP had clarified that, then the answers would be more relevant.

I don't use an amp-hour counter but do use a watt meter that can track consumption. I hardly look at it.

Sorry if I did not make my question complex enough. "...how much electricity it is generating as well as how much I am using. Any low cost options?"

I have been around long enough to know that if one opens up the door, the answers will vary from, should have got a diesel to you need 2,000 watts minimum. Keeping is simple.

A long stay with definite habits and lifestyle is a long way from a weekend jaunt. If someone was to tell me he could "predict" energy usage while on vacation with a new rig, new panel headed for an unknown destination, that would certainly raise my eyebrows and blow every polygraph machine within ten miles.

It is always better to give all the parameters when asking a question. Almost no one has zero parasitic loads. If the OP had clarified that, then the answers would be more relevant.

I don't use an amp-hour counter but do use a watt meter that can track consumption. I hardly look at it.

"If you want to boon dock I'd bump up to at least 400 watts and if you want to nearly eliminate generator use I'd go to 700 or 800 watts."

Some people think camping doesn't require hundreds of watts to enjoy. If I want to consume lots of power, I will take one of my three generators or simply plug in the travel trailer at a campground.

Some good suggestions for measuring my usage. Thanks.

Using "Trends & Tendencies"

Voltage going up very slowly = charging slowly

Voltage staying the same = not charging not discharging

Voltage going down = discharging

Useful ONLY on a tiny system that sees extremely light recreational use. A few days camping, then homeward bound for a good charge.

"Realworld Experience" is the best teacher of all whether battery capacity is great enough or recharging potential is enough to keep the batteries charged.

The alternative is to AUDIT the machinery and interrogate the user.

Hi Drew,

Yes, I'm including the gas valve in the fridge. Duty cycle is 2:3 and draw is 0.88 amps.

DrewE wrote:

pianotuna wrote:

Typical 24 hour parasitic watt-hours are 448. That is as much as a 100 watt panel can do in 100% perfect solar conditions in June.

That works out to about 1.5A parasitic load on average. Are you including the fridge operation (on propane)? Otherwise, that seems awfully high to me. With my fridge and other appliances off, I see a parasitic load that is approximately one tenth that amount on my class C motorhome's house battery (around 0.12 to 0.15 amp) according to my panel ammeter...which may not be perfectly accurate, but is definitely not off by an order of magnitude.

A voltmeter is not a battery monitor, but it gives indications as to state of charge, but not knowing the load on the battery at the time of the voltage reading can be misleading.

A clamp on ammeter is a wonderful tool, hold next to a wire, zero it, then hook over one wire in the circuit and see the amperage flowing through it.

Shunted ammeters, require a shunt in the (-) cable to measure the current. The cheap shunted meters seem to be bad about measuring low currents. One I used read 0.00 amps when 0.78 amps were still flowing, but the 3 amp to 100 amp range was fairly accurate.

For just seeing what your solar provides and how much your devices use.

The following product or similar, can fit that bill.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ORGDQOK?psc=1

These will display Ah and watt hours, and minimum voltage and watt peak, amp peak. BUt they only measure current in one direction, and they only count upto 64 AH before flipping back to zero.

So you can have one inline from solar controller to battery to see what the solar makes, and one inline from battery to house fuse block to see how much your loads consume.

I use Anderson powerpoles in the 45 amp flavor to hook up a meter anywhere I want to measure anything I want, and it is a wonderful tool, if not 100% accurate.

These too can do poorly at very light loads. Mine has issues under 0.15 amps, and is one amp off at 40 amps, reading high.