Forum Discussion
- ShadycloudExplorer
I thought they were new… I’m really thinking about getting one since it comes with the cover legs and hose. However I think I remember the warranty only being 1 year rather than the 3 year with camco
- Tom_M1Explorer
Tom_M wrote:
I purchased the Flame King heater and removed the regulator. I hooked it up in my motorhome. Initially it was working great but after a while the carbon monoxide level started ramping up. When the digital display hit 50 on my CO detector I shut the heater off. It's possible that the Flame King is using lower pressure than 11" WC. I don't have time to mess with it so I reinstalled my Buddy heater.
I'm tempted to try the Flame King's version which has the added benefit of a thermostat and a bit higher output. - PerryB67Explorer
Skibane wrote:
I suppose I could get a micrometer out to measure the distance, but I'm lazy and just eyeball the gap and just want to see the outside, with my eyesight somewhere around a 1/4" is what I shoot for.
In residential heating, a typical recommendation is 1 square inch of opening for every 4,000 BTUs of heater.
Using that guideline, a 3,000 BTU catalytic heater would need at least 0.75 square inches.
So, if your window is 12 inches high, you would only need to crack it open by about 1/16th of an inch to get that 0.75 square inches.
Add in another 100% safety margin, and you're still at only 1/8th of an inch.
Our awning window is about 18" x 14". Considering its an awning you can only use the 14" once, so about 32" in length times 1/4" is 8 square inches. When I was researching catalytic heaters I remember 4-6 square inches per 1000 btu's. At 1,500 btu's I need 6-9 square inches. Remember we're talking about an indoor catalytic heater, not residential heating.
The Weber runs for about 8-10 hours on .8# of propane. I waste too much gas trying to fill those Flame King cylinders to one pound and .8 pounds works for us.
Enjoy,
Perry - SkibaneExplorer II
PerryB67 wrote:
I said open a window to 1/4-1/2" not a full inch. You don't need much for intake
In residential heating, a typical recommendation is 1 square inch of opening for every 4,000 BTUs of heater.
Using that guideline, a 3,000 BTU catalytic heater would need at least 0.75 square inches.
So, if your window is 12 inches high, you would only need to crack it open by about 1/16th of an inch to get that 0.75 square inches.
Add in another 100% safety margin, and you're still at only 1/8th of an inch. - PerryB67Explorer
StirCrazy wrote:
So you only have experience with an electric heater. Catalytic, sunflower, and Mr. Buddy heaters are used all the time by thousands of ice fishermen every winter in Minnesota. Trust me, we do have experience you don't have. And one drunk/idiot will die every year, but people die in car accidents daily.
yes I do know from experiance and a electric heater how having a window and a vent open about 1" will make a heck of a draft between the two. depending which window/vent you use in your rv you may or may not notice it while your sleeping, but the wrong combo you will.
so aparently you use windows that you wont feel but your still bring cold air into the rv, does it make sence to bring cold air into a space you trying to heat, and for what? what are you gaining doing it this way? well your gining the chace if you make a mistake one night you could forget to open the window, or if the heater gets a small spot dammaged that you dont notice it will be pumping out more gasses than expected..
after markt companies sell them for rv use because the way they word it they have no liability so its all about the dollar. they were baned from being factory installed in rv's maybe thats because there is a different leverl of liability involved there, I dont know
I said open a window to 1/4-1/2" not a full inch. You don't need much for intake. We always have the Maxxfan open about 1", perhaps less, whether we use the conventional furnace or the catalytic. So if you open your window 1", or choose a window into the wind, then it's your problem that you have too much ventilation, not mine.
Once my heater starts failing we'll get a notification from our CO detector and throw the heater away. You can't rejuvenate a catalytic heater.
The little bit of cold air brought into the camper is not even close to the inefficiency of a Dometic furnace. Not even close.
Enjoy,
Perry - StirCrazyModerator
PerryB67 wrote:
StirCrazy wrote:
You know this from experience?
I have a hard time believing how may people are actualy using these, there is a reason they were banned from being instaleld in new rv's in the lait 70's or early 80's cant remember exactly when now at my advanced age haha. people were dying from them. yes some people are responcable and crac a windo and a vent, this also sets up a natural convection (or it wouldnt carry any unintentional byproducts of combustion out of the unit.) you would be surprised how much heat loss this convection can cause. plus the fact that inbetween the open windo and the heater will be much colder than the rest of the camper.
People die from stupid all the time. If you don't vent you're chances of dying are massively increased, but we all know stupid people exist. A current example is a sports figure who was driving 156 mph on a residential street, with a .16 blood alcohol content, that rear ended another vehicle, causing death to the other car's occupant. Should we judge all sports figures, by this occurrence?
We have experience, vent properly, so I'll refute your claims. Unless you sit directly in front of the 1/4-1/2" vented window there is no cold air moving in our camper causing any unpleasantness. OTOH, we crack our kitchen window, so no one is sitting in that position. What you want to believe happens vs what realistically happens is quite different.
Enjoy,
Perry
yes I do know from experiance and a electric heater how having a window and a vent open about 1" will make a heck of a draft between the two. depending which window/vent you use in your rv you may or may not notice it while your sleeping, but the wrong combo you will.
so aparently you use windows that you wont feel but your still bring cold air into the rv, does it make sence to bring cold air into a space you trying to heat, and for what? what are you gaining doing it this way? well your gining the chace if you make a mistake one night you could forget to open the window, or if the heater gets a small spot dammaged that you dont notice it will be pumping out more gasses than expected..
after markt companies sell them for rv use because the way they word it they have no liability so its all about the dollar. they were baned from being factory installed in rv's maybe thats because there is a different leverl of liability involved there, I dont know.. - SkibaneExplorer II
StirCrazy wrote:
Most I see up here in canada, if not all are made to sit ontop of a propane tank or somthing like and and use when your ice fishing or what not. they all say right on them not for use in enclosed spaces..
Those aren't catalytic heaters.
The Olympian and Journey models are specifically advertised as being for RVs and other interior spaces. - PerryB67Explorer
StirCrazy wrote:
You know this from experience?
I have a hard time believing how may people are actualy using these, there is a reason they were banned from being instaleld in new rv's in the lait 70's or early 80's cant remember exactly when now at my advanced age haha. people were dying from them. yes some people are responcable and crac a windo and a vent, this also sets up a natural convection (or it wouldnt carry any unintentional byproducts of combustion out of the unit.) you would be surprised how much heat loss this convection can cause. plus the fact that inbetween the open windo and the heater will be much colder than the rest of the camper.
People die from stupid all the time. If you don't vent you're chances of dying are massively increased, but we all know stupid people exist. A current example is a sports figure who was driving 156 mph on a residential street, with a .16 blood alcohol content, that rear ended another vehicle, causing death to the other car's occupant. Should we judge all sports figures, by this occurrence?
We have experience, vent properly, so I'll refute your claims. Unless you sit directly in front of the 1/4-1/2" vented window there is no cold air moving in our camper causing any unpleasantness. OTOH, we crack our kitchen window, so no one is sitting in that position. What you want to believe happens vs what realistically happens is quite different.
Enjoy,
Perry - StirCrazyModerator
Skibane wrote:
^I'm not sure that CO alarms even existed back in the late-70's or early-80's.
They certainly weren't standard equipment in RVs like they are today.
Camco sells a metric butt-load of these heaters. Someone is using them!
The fact that Mr. Heater just introduced their own line of catalytic heaters tells you everything you need to know about their popularity.
Most I see up here in canada, if not all are made to sit ontop of a propane tank or somthing like and and use when your ice fishing or what not. they all say right on them not for use in enclosed spaces.. not sure about down there but since they dont come factory in rv's anymore I would imagin its a simular case. once some one buys it they have no controle of what they do with it. but there are a lot of advanceents being made and the amount of gasses they through off are less when they are running perfect. still I would rather have a good old furnace in my rv, warms up faster, not hot spot to worry about kids or pets bumping into, dont have to leave windows open..... - SkibaneExplorer II^I'm not sure that CO alarms even existed back in the late-70's or early-80's.
They certainly weren't standard equipment in RVs like they are today.
Camco sells a metric butt-load of these heaters. Someone is using them!
The fact that Mr. Heater just introduced their own line of catalytic heaters tells you everything you need to know about their popularity.
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