Hello,My 5th wheel has an Atwood hot water heater that came with a nylon (plastic) drain plug. The location of the plug makes it very difficult to get a wrench or anything on it to remove the plug. Original Atwood plugI replaced it with a Camco brass drain plug with a valve that you can open to drain the tank. Camco plugThe Camco plug was a complete waste of time and money. It leaked constantly and when you wanted to drain it came out so slow that it would take a day to drain the tank. I even popped the pressure relief and opened all my faucets with minimal improvement. Removing this drain plug took over an hour due to location and the brass stripped very easily.Does anyone have a better solution? What do you use? Any special wrenches that fit better?Thanks for your response!Dave

Better solutionUse the NYLON OEM drain plugAtwood uses the NYLON for a few reasonsNYLON will not strip out the Aluminum Threads (tank is aluminum and so are all threads)NYLON has the proper temp/pressure ratings should the T-stat/ECO failNYLON seals without having to really crank on it with a wrenchActually should install finger tight then using a 6 point socket just snug it upSocket should be 7/8" (some are 15/16")

I use the plastic plug, but had a hard time with it too, until I started using this with a 15/16 socket. It needs a slight angle to work it up in there. My 1991 water heater might be different though.

Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.Stored position so door can close.

I access the plug with a 1/2" drive socket and u-joint. Without opening up the entire hole, a lot of the gunk that collects in the bottom of the tank isn't going to drain out. I do have to use sealant on the plug or it drips. Maybe that it's 10 years old and comes out every winter has contributed to that.

CloudDriver wrote:Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.Stored position so door can close.OP hereWill the plastic hold up to the heat of the hot water? What kind of fitting did you use to connect the hose to the hot water tank?Thanks!Dave

Atwood Hot water heater drain plug | Good Sam Community

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jun 19, 2019
Better solution

Use the NYLON OEM drain plug

Atwood uses the NYLON for a few reasons
NYLON will not strip out the Aluminum Threads (tank is aluminum and so are all threads)
NYLON has the proper temp/pressure ratings should the T-stat/ECO fail
NYLON seals without having to really crank on it with a wrench

Actually should install finger tight then using a 6 point socket just snug it up
Socket should be 7/8" (some are 15/16")
BFL13
Explorer II
Jun 19, 2019
I use the plastic plug, but had a hard time with it too, until I started using this with a 15/16 socket. It needs a slight angle to work it up in there. My 1991 water heater might be different though.
CloudDriver
Explorer
Jun 19, 2019
Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.

Stored position so door can close.
road-runner
Explorer III
Jun 19, 2019
I access the plug with a 1/2" drive socket and u-joint. Without opening up the entire hole, a lot of the gunk that collects in the bottom of the tank isn't going to drain out. I do have to use sealant on the plug or it drips. Maybe that it's 10 years old and comes out every winter has contributed to that.
dpgllg
Explorer
Jun 19, 2019
CloudDriver wrote:
Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.

Stored position so door can close.

OP here

Will the plastic hold up to the heat of the hot water? What kind of fitting did you use to connect the hose to the hot water tank?

Thanks!

Dave
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jun 20, 2019
CloudDriver wrote:
Here's what I did to make draining the water heater easy. Two nylon thread to barb adapter fittings, 12" of 1/2 inch tubing and a valve.

Stored position so door can close.

Doubt that flex tubing is rated for temp/press that COULD occur should t-stat & ECO fail
T&P Relief Valve is set for 210*F/150 psi

PVC/CPVC aren't
BluegrassBill
Explorer
Jun 20, 2019
I use a wobbler extention with 7/8" socket and ratchet, Works great.
D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Jun 20, 2019
Considering that nylon plugs are rated at 220psi and cpvc at 200psi, and most of us use a regulator set a 55psi or less, pressure really isn't an issue. Operating temps are 220 degrees and 200 degrees respectfully, also not to low to be a problem.

The reinforced clear plastic hose falls pretty much within the specs of cpvc, still not a problem.

I don't know what the heater thermostat is set at but I'd bet no where near 200 degrees, closer to 120 degrees.

In my mind reaching either of the max ratings of a PT valve is time to kiss your water heater and much of your plumbing goodbye.

Camco does recommend 3-5 wraps of teflon tape on the threads of the plugs.
pinesman
Explorer
Jun 20, 2019
I did something very similar as cloud except I used a pre made sink supply line. No problems in a year
dpgllg
Explorer
Jun 20, 2019
OP Here,

Can someone tell me what size fitting that screws into the tank? I threw the old Camco one away and need to know what size opening it is.

Thanks!
Dave