have a 2002 Atwood water heater model G6A-8E the same as listed below. first time for us using this trailer and flipped the switch to ignite the heater and fired right up. ran until it shut down and went to use the water but only luke warm water coming out. can't even use the cold water to mix because its to cold than.figured i would go turn up the thermostat in the unit but when i went to look for it i don't see any type of dial to make the water hotter, nothing..... not even a valve to lite it manually.are these just pre set to a certain temp and thats it or am i missing something to make the water hotter?thanksatwood water heater

The thermostats are not adjustable on standard Atwood water heater.Verify that your winterizing valves are in the correct postion if equipped.

The linked video is of the outboard end of the water heater. On the inboard end, are bypass valves. These allow you to isolate the water heater from your plumbing. Then you simply drain the tank for winterizing, then pump pink antifreeze through the rest of the plumbing. If those valves aren't set right, water bypasses the heater and isn't warmed. Also, if you have any "mixing" fixtures, like indoor and outdoor shower heads, they can't be simply turned off at the head. The Valves have to be off, or hot water will mix with cold and give you lukewarm.

Make sure your outside shower valves are off...not just the button on the spray head, but the valves themselves...

Above posts are good starting points.Water Heater 'Bypass' Valve open or leaking thru.Connects WH Tank Cold inlet line to WH Tank Hot outlet line.....cold diluting hot out making it luke warmShowers not turned off via cold/hot knobs but just with button on shower head handle....allows cold/hot mixing inside shower faucet making luke warm waterYour Atwood is gas only model with electronic ignition.T-stat controls heating cycles.....140*F t-stat opens --closes at 110*F to reheat ECO (Energy Cut Off---Hi temp t-stat) 180*F opens to shut down heating should Normal T-stat fail. Locks out heating and triggers RED Fault Light. ECO closes at 150*F but heating circuit has to be 'reset' by turning ON/OFF Switch OFF--Wait 30 seconds then back ONT&P Relief Valve is last safety should t-stat & ECO fail. Opens at 210*F/150 PSI and will BLOW hot water/steam out of valve.Turn Switch OFF, pull the DC Fuse for water heater, valve out propane....but shut it down should T&P Open

What is the theory behind posting the exact advice that has already been given?

Atwood water heater????? | Good Sam Community

Horizon170
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
I'm squared away with mine. Twenty + dollars for an adjustable one.
Marvin
Clicky
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
To the OP (assuming you're new to RV's). A good practice to get into is to spray the valves with 100% silicone spray a day before you turn them. They tend to dry out and can sometimes leak, or even break. A $2 can of spray and a little patience can save a bunch of work.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
Farmboy666 wrote:
John&Joey wrote:
Not to restate anything that has been stated before ;) but given what you said the very first place I would look is at the bypass valves on the inside of the RV for the HWH. There should be three valves and it's very easy to imagine the middle valve not being closed and the two other ones being open. That would allow the HWH to function like it should but the HW would not come out of it like you expect it should.

Are you winking at me because I'm already married.

Yeah, but you know how you are. :B
joelyn
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
drsteve wrote:
Sound like the bypass valve is open, allowing hot water from the tank to mix with cold water.

Looking at the back of the tank you should see this:

The valves on the top and bottom should be open, the one in the center should be closed. The photo shows all three in the open position, for some reason.

A picture speaks a thousand words...............THANKS AND THANKS TO ALL FOR UR HELP. I NOW HAVE RETURNED HOME AND YET ANOTHER PROBLEM THAT I WILL BE POSTING ABOUT TO SEE IF OR HOW TO CORRECT IT.
THANKS AGAIN
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Dec 28, 2017
drsteve wrote:
Sound like the bypass valve is open, allowing hot water from the tank to mix with cold water.

Looking at the back of the tank you should see this:

The valves on the top and bottom should be open, the one in the center should be closed. The photo shows all three in the open position, for some reason.

That is because the valves used are 'straight stop multi-turn' valves vs 1/4 turn ball valves

Valve handle does NOT indicate open/closed like the 1/4 turn valve handles do.
One must check whether or not they are open or closed vs just looking at handle position
drsteve
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
Sound like the bypass valve is open, allowing hot water from the tank to mix with cold water.

Looking at the back of the tank you should see this:

The valves on the top and bottom should be open, the one in the center should be closed. The photo shows all three in the open position, for some reason.
Farmboy666
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
John&Joey wrote:
Not to restate anything that has been stated before ;) but given what you said the very first place I would look is at the bypass valves on the inside of the RV for the HWH. There should be three valves and it's very easy to imagine the middle valve not being closed and the two other ones being open. That would allow the HWH to function like it should but the HW would not come out of it like you expect it should.

Are you winking at me because I'm already married.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
Not to restate anything that has been stated before ;) but given what you said the very first place I would look is at the bypass valves on the inside of the RV for the HWH. There should be three valves and it's very easy to imagine the middle valve not being closed and the two other ones being open. That would allow the HWH to function like it should but the HW would not come out of it like you expect it should.
Farmboy666
Explorer
Dec 28, 2017
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Farmboy666 wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Farmboy666 wrote:
What is the theory behind posting the exact advice that has already been given?

More information, consensus -----something your post has none of

Except it's not more information it's the same information, How many ways can you say " make sure the outside shower is turned off"
Do you need consensus before you go check to see if it's off? Maybe YOU do.

What exactly do your posts do...they don't provide any help, no information, no troubleshooting, nothing.

So WHY do you post :H

I asked a simple question and maybe the answer would cut down on unneeded posts. What exactly did your post do? Did it provide help,information, troubleshooting, nothing?
joelyn
Explorer
Dec 27, 2017
Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas. once we get home i will try out a few of the ideas. have no outside shower or washing machine so will go from there.\
thanks again