Bad Caliper or something elce?
Been having some trouble with a break sticking when hot. Seams to be the left rear. I've replaced the pads, brake hose (on that wheel), greased guide pins and of course, bleed the system. After the ...
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Gdetrailer wrote:John&Joey wrote:Cstoliker wrote:
As stated above its already been done. I cleaned and greased all the moving parts. Caliper does not have bolts. Just slide pins.
I've fought the same problem with my '96 Class A F53. Did all the standard stuff like you did. Replaced calipers with the best, and changed brake fluid every two years. Only way I could ever win. Even then, there were times I thought they were dragging after sitting for awhile.
Good luck, BTW backing up and hitting the brakes seem to help break them free.
Folks, in spite of what you think, it is not the calipers OR the pins.
The problem is the PADS FIT TOO TIGHT in the calipers.
What I have run into is the pads when new don't slide easily, once they sit they get the chance to RUST. Once rusted the pads no longer move back as they should after you let up on the brake pedal.
The fix, well believe it or not FILE the ears of the brake pads that fit in the caliper slots. If rusted you NEED to ensure ALL the rust is filed off.
In a nutshell, the brake pads MUST slide EASILY in the caliper holder, if they don't then FILE some of the material on the ears of the pads until the pads slide easily BY HAND.
I have had this happen to several trucks and had to use a hammer and chisel to get the pads OUT of the caliper.
I have thought about putting some anti seize on the ears but I am concerned about that getting on rotors, pads or collecting dust/dirt.
So far my "fix" has been working for several years on one of my trucks :)
Should have mentioned it earlier. The problem started before I changed the pads. I took them apart to clean and grease, saw they were warn and decided to change them while I had it apart.
