Blacklane wrote:
If you're going to install residential outlets in an RV, at least don't use the screws on the side: use the spring-loaded quick connect kind. Vibration can loosen screws, causing huge risk of arc and fire. That's why RV electrical devices have the punch-down connectors and self-contained boxes that are made to hold the wires in-place.
Sorry, but I can't agree with that. There are many screw terminals in RVs that are just fine. When it comes to a wire-to-wire connection, there is a "vibration-proof" wire nut available (UL/CSA too). It employs a screw connection under the cap.
The back-stab connections on a residential recept. aren't generally well regarded in the elec. biz because they are spring loaded and there's no way of seeing the connection. Fourth pic shows what they look like inside. I'd take an RV SCD recept. connection over one of these any time.
The key to creating a trouble-free connection is doing it properly. There are no shortcuts or excuses. The second pic is from a splice in our TT. This is not the way to do them (have found a few more like this too). Best practice is to "pre-twist" the wires before installing the wire nut. I like to use the vibration-proof set-screw wire nuts in cases like this. How 'bout another example from our TT. Third pic is the #6 + wire from our battery and it simply fell out when I touched it because the factory didn't apply enough force on the crimp. This is potentially serious as it could prevent operation of the brakes if the break-away switch activated from a disconnected hitch while travelling.
