Battery Equalizing?

We Cant Wait wrote:
What type batteries do you have, Lead Acid, Gel, or AGM? It's my understanding that you do not want to equalize AGM batteries.

There are two definitions of equalizing. Both mean 'to make equal'. The difference is in what is made equal.

The common legacy definition means to 'boil' a flooded battery to stir the electrolyte. This is done by raising Volts to insane levels and usually requires the batteries to be disconnected from the RV's electronics. This process takes minutes.

The second definition deals with equalizing cell Voltages. This is done with a slight overcharge over hours. The Volts are low enough so that the disconnection of the RV's electronics may not be necessary. AGMs will benefit from this type of equalization.

HTH;
John

C'mon people. A little research would benefit some of this. A common but not universal standard for voltage suppression in newer vehicles is 17.0 volts. Protection is for transients not continuous potential. I've seen devices with 16.0 volt rated TVS but they are accessories not vehicle components.

MOST of today's alternator designs use A circuit regulation. Ignition feed to one brush, through the rotor out the other brush, to the regulator then to negative. The regulator therefore "grounds" the field to varying degrees. Some vehicles use a voltage regulator that is contained within the vehicle's ECU. The regulator and ECU gossip constantly. Excess ripple, a disproportionate alternator field current to battery system voltage RISE CURVE can trigger an error message. A huge heatsink and lots of chassis area to stuff MOVs and TVS makes this arrangement appealing to OEM. Supposedly (never verified) a catastrophic full-field situation in my toad will shut the engine down via a signal to the fuel pump relay to cease and desist.

Why not drink and drive home fast? That way a person will get there faster and feel good about doing it.

Batteries SHOULD BE utterly isolated when undergoing true equalization. I designed Quicksilver so the L16's can be isolated, the power supply feeds the hotel, and the charger dives into the batteries.

Some things amaze me. The laziness of some folks is high on the list. It's like listening to them explain they never have to leave their easy chair and miss a moment of double-digit IQ grade television. Piece of cake. When the kids upstairs are making too much noise a few rounds from a .357 through the ceiling corrects things pushbutton style.

A driver who ignores a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT deserves all the bad Juju that their IGNORance is going to cost them. And it's going to cost them plenty. "Oh gee whiz the refrigerator board hot water heater controls and air conditioning thermostat have all gone bad. But it's been months since the alternator fried and I drove until they had to put the fire out". They've NEVER bothered to read the vehicle's owner manual telling them in single syllables to NOT do what they insisted on doing.

Many times a person is their own worst enemy. The brain is miraculous at having the ability to outsmart itself.

pianotuna wrote:
Hi gator,

With respect, this is incorrect. Going over 15.4 may cause the control 'boards' to fail. Equalizing voltage may have to be higher than 15.4.

gatorcq wrote:
All electronics can work upto 18 Vdc.
Alternator Hi output = 14.7
Inverter/Charger output = 14.3 to 14.7

Equalizing Voltage = 15.1 to 15.3.
So what you are telling me that all the 12 volt electronics will go belly up at 15.3 volts. If this is true, that when the voltage regulator goes bad in an alternator and IT will goupto 18 Volts. Then all the electronics in an RV or Car should go bad.

I agree. Since when did 18 become the new 16?

There are plenty of stories over the years of flying alternators killing electronics. They don't design vehicles for alternator failures.

Mexicowanderer didn't do it so I will: Here is his old and excellent post on equalizing.

gatorcq wrote:
All electronics can work upto 18 Vdc.

resent posts with link of dometic service manuals suggest 22v limit in a section discussing AC ripple!

http://www.manualslib.com/manual/766001/Dometic-Rm1350.html?page=19

It's a lot like needing a flashlight to find a flashlight in the dark.

Are the batteries actually sulfated? How bad?

(Two Aussie Doctors in New Guinea)

He looks sorta pale
My God it must be mumbojumbo fever
Quick get the syrum from the refrigerator
Aghh Now why is he going into shock? Quick move him to the respirator room
Hey there! Anyone seen Fred? He is supposed be here staying out of the sun.
Doctor? Yes doctor. Well you can't win them all.

Guaranteed you'll remember this farce vignette...

Pressing desufate or equalize buttons just for the hell of it ain't that far off the mark. A sparse tiny shred of self education is incalculably worthwhile.

Battery University is worth ten minutes of your time.

Hi gator,

With respect, this is incorrect. Going over 15.4 may cause the control 'boards' to fail. Equalizing voltage may have to be higher than 15.4.

gatorcq wrote:
All electronics can work upto 18 Vdc.
Alternator Hi output = 14.7
Inverter/Charger output = 14.3 to 14.7

Equalizing Voltage = 15.1 to 15.3.
So what you are telling me that all the 12 volt electronics will go belly up at 15.3 volts. If this is true, that when the voltage regulator goes bad in an alternator and IT will goupto 18 Volts. Then all the electronics in an RV or Car should go bad.

I've had a Trojan T-1275 take 3 full day attempts, with time off the charger in between, at 16.0V, before it reached 16.0V on the DMM, to finally break the "code" and bring the Specific gravity to within 10 points on all cells, on a badly beaten up 550 day old golf cart battery.

Some times you can save them, sometimes you can't. I got almost 2 more years use out of those free T-1275's, due to not quitting on equalize charging. Sometimes you save them, sometimes, it's too late.

Aaaaahhhhhh. . . . the fog is clearing. Don't worry about the residential 120 volt fridge.

See this link from Interstate:

www.batteries-faq.com/activekb/questions.php

Chum lee

The batteries are Interstate lead acid, the inverter is a Magum Energy with a ME-RC remote, and the fridge is a residential. I have a 12v disconnect by the door, and I have no problem turning off the fridge by flipping the circuit breaker, but I'd rather not do without the AC in this heat. When I am on shore power, isn't the AC running off that?

Thanks