Forum Discussion
BurbMan
Jan 17, 2014Explorer II
First off, you need breakers. Granted the 30A on the pedestal will protect the cord, but that means running 10 ga to every light and outlet in the trailer. Using a panel with 20A breakers allows running #12 to the a/c and outlets.
I would also second the idea of a converter for 12v. If the trailer has electric brakes, DOT laws require it to have a battery on board and a breakaway switch to power the brakes if the trailer disconnects from the truck. So if you have a battery, you may as well have a charger onboard so you are charging the battery while you are plugged in.
The converter/charger allows you to run 12v lighting. The 12v is supplied by the converter while you are plugged in, the charger charges the battery with the added benefit is that you can have lights while unplugged using battery power.
Also if you want to add other 12v accessories like a stereo later.
Here's one model that has the converter, charger, and both 12v and 120v distribution panels all in one unit.
I would also second the idea of a converter for 12v. If the trailer has electric brakes, DOT laws require it to have a battery on board and a breakaway switch to power the brakes if the trailer disconnects from the truck. So if you have a battery, you may as well have a charger onboard so you are charging the battery while you are plugged in.
The converter/charger allows you to run 12v lighting. The 12v is supplied by the converter while you are plugged in, the charger charges the battery with the added benefit is that you can have lights while unplugged using battery power.
Also if you want to add other 12v accessories like a stereo later.
Here's one model that has the converter, charger, and both 12v and 120v distribution panels all in one unit.
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