Can I use this oil?

[TurnThePage]

My Yamaha EF2800i generator calls or 10W-30 oil. I have several quarts of 10W-40 just sitting in the garage. What do you think?

I found some 0W-40 and 5W-30 also...

[96Bounder30E]

Closed

[Tom_Barb]

jwoods61us wrote:
I'm still not sure what I've done to warrant such nastiness,

I made simple statements, you take offense .. Oh well.

[jwoods61us]

Tom/Barb wrote:


At least now you know the proper terms use in the conversation.

Those terms are universal oil language.

and ,, the only difference between aviation oil and auto oil is the aviation oils are Ashless, and dispersant not detergent. additive packages that modify the viscosity are the same chemicals.

I'm still not sure what I've done to warrant such nastiness, but I certainly don't appreciate your tone. All you have offered to this conversation is obtuse criticism. If I made a mistake I apologize to the OP, but as far as you, Tom/Barb, :M

Oh, wait, now I see it, I used function instead of measure. :R Function:Verb work or operate in a proper or particular way. Measure: Verbascertain the size, amount, or degree of (something)

[Tom_Barb]

jwoods61us wrote:


I fail to see your point as it is just a glossary defining different oil related terms. Also, apples to oranges, aviation and automotive are two distinct domains.

At least now you know the proper terms use in the conversation.

Those terms are universal oil language.

and ,, the only difference between aviation oil and auto oil is the aviation oils are Ashless, and dispersant not detergent. additive packages that modify the viscosity are the same chemicals.

[Chum_lee]

TurnThePage wrote:
My Yamaha EF2800i generator calls or 10W-30 oil. I have several quarts of 10W-40 just sitting in the garage. What do you think?

I found some 0W-40 and 5W-30 also...

Use the extra non-spec oil for topping off when the oil is low. As previously mentioned, using the wrong oil is better than having low/no oil but using the proper viscosity and API spec grade is always best. The American Petroleum Institute has periodic specification upgrades to their approved automotive engine oils. A 30 year old bottle of 10W-30 SE grade oil is NOT the same animal as new bottle 10W-30 SN grade. Oil chemistry changes (improves) substantially over time.

Chum lee

[RJsfishin]

At least there are a few here that know what their talking about.

I'll use the 40 over the 30 anyday.
And there ain't no dam 5 wt going anywhere near any engine I have.
2 reasons, fear and common sense !

[jwoods61us]

Your premise completely ignores the additive package that results in a multi weight oil.

How? My premise is that one difference in viscosity grade will not cause an oil related failure, regardless of additive package; and worrying about the minutiae of one grade difference, or one psi of pressure is silly.

Read oil talk for dummies at oil talk for dummies .

I fail to see your point as it is just a glossary defining different oil related terms. Also, apples to oranges, aviation and automotive are two distinct domains.

[Tom_Barb]

jwoods61us wrote:
Topics like this one amaze me! It is right on par with the tire threads that begin...I ran my tires at 49psi and 66mph for 2 minutes, how badly did I damage them and when will they detonate?.

Viscosity is a function of temperature and film thickness. If anything, a higher viscosity oil has superior wear resistance in severe usage situations. A difference of one viscosity grade will NOT result in an oil related failure.

"Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

"In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range.

"If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture."

For a very detailed discussion of viscosity, wear, and fuel economy, click here.

Your premise completely ignores the additive package that results in a multi weight oil.


Read oil talk for dummies at oil talk for dummies

This is an aviation engine page, ( ECI-Engine components inc.) I guess if it works for them it'll work for us.

[jwoods61us]

Topics like this one amaze me! It is right on par with the tire threads that begin...I ran my tires at 49psi and 66mph for 2 minutes, how badly did I damage them and when will they detonate?.

Viscosity is a function of temperature and film thickness. If anything, a higher viscosity oil has superior wear resistance in severe usage situations. A difference of one viscosity grade will NOT result in an oil related failure.

"Temperature has a big effect on viscosity and film thickness. As a point of reference, one SAE grade increase in viscosity is necessary to overcome the influence of a 20°F increase in engine temperature. At a given reference point, there is approximately a 20°F. difference between viscosity grades SAE 30, 40 and 50. SAE 20 is somewhat closer to 30 than the other jumps, because SAE 30 must be 30°F higher than SAE 20 to be roughly the equivalent viscosity.

"In other words, an SAE 20 at 190°F is about the same kinematic viscosity as an SAE 30 at 220°F, which is about the same viscosity as an SAE 40 at 240°F. This approximation works well in the 190°F to 260°F temperature range.

"If an SAE 50 oil at 260°F is as thin as an SAE 20 oil at 190°F, imagine how thin the oil film becomes when you are using an SAE 5W-20 and your engine overheats. When an engine overheats, the oil film becomes dangerously thin and can rupture."

For a very detailed discussion of viscosity, wear, and fuel economy, click here.

[drsteve]

I would follow the manufacturer's recommendation.

[larry_barnhart]

In 1989 ford had this message. Using 10/40 oil in a new ford engine will void the warranty because what made the oil 40 causes piston ring sticking. A few days later I was standing in front of the service desk and a leader board behind service man wash showing a special oil change using Motor craft 10/40 oil.

I laughed and told him this story. He never heard of it. Same man was the ford tech that could not make our 78 mustang stop pinging until the engine was toast . Who knows what is correct at times.

chevman

[midnightsadie]

used to fish teel lake up by hayward 20yrs back. wonder how its changed? just beautiful up there. I still remember the national bird ,, mosquito,,,lol

[westend]

I'd suggest to use the best oil you can find in the viscosity weight defined by the Mfg. That will be the best ROI for using your generator.

[Tom_Barb]

10W40.... the 10 is how it pours when it is cold, the "W" stands for "Winter use" and the 40 is how well the additive package protects when it is hot.

None of those numbers have any thing to do with the quality of the oil or related to any of the old single viscosity oil. those numbers are viscosity numbers, nothing more.