Can't fix my water heater!! GOING INSANE!

[hamel]

I own a 1996 Holiday Rambler Vacationer SE, Class A motorhome. This is my first RV and I've been fixing any issues (LOTS OF ISSUES! -.-) by myself to save money. I was having an issue with my water heater (before I fixed anything) where I would switch the switch on and it would be in lockout mode and I'd have to switch it on and off for like 40 minutes before it'd kick on. Sometimes it'd stay on, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it would reheat properly, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes I just couldn't get it out of lockout and I'd have to try the next day.

Fast forward. I want to fix this thing. I bought all new parts on Amazon. This included, new control board, new eco and thermo, and new thermal cutoff. I replaced everything and finally got to the wiring where I was confused. The connector was different then the one I had on before but I was assured this control panel would work with my model, the G6A-8E. After TONS of trial and error switching the cables in different spots (probably not the best idea, I know) I finally found a wire sequence where the igniter would start sparking and the lockout light would stay off. (I looked in the manual for the wiring sequence. The one it showed didn't work. I looked everywhere online, couldn't find anything and the sequence of wiring before I switched out the board didn't work either). After buttoning everything up and a very long day I went inside and held my breath as I pressed the switch.

BOOM! IGNITION! FLAWLESSLY!

I can't tell you how happy I was, let alone my wife. I took a super hot amazing shower. As soon as the hot water in the tank dropped I heard it kick back on, beautifully. My wife took a shower; kicked right back on. Dishes were next; kicked right on. I thought this was the end of the hot water fiasco. Another challenge triumphed. Wellllllllllllllll, I was wrong.

The next night my wife went to switch on the water heater so we could do dishes. Then came the dreaded, "Juuuuuuusssssstinnn........... The water heater isn't turning on". I always assume she messes something up so I go and check but low and behold; not working. I go outside do my normal checks, wires, connections, etc. I have her try it a couple of times and I realize the igniter is still sparking but I don't hear propane spraying at all. The other strange thing is the lockout light didn't come on (which makes me wonder if my wiring sequence is still wrong). I've tried all sorts of things, checked everything I could on the internet, check my manual, but I can not figure this out. I'm hoping it is the stupid wiring sequence but I am just confused why it worked flawless just for the next day it not to work at all. I have propane and the stove tops have been working fine. This is my last resort before calling a tech, which I don't want to do.

Pictures attached of Before/After
https://imgur.com/a/x5FEA

[enblethen]

I posted the spade ignitor, Yours is a post. It is shown on right end of Amazon link.
Dino post

[enblethen]

Harness is the correct one for most earlier boards.
This is Dinosaurs board. They come in two sizes large and small measure your original to fit existing holes or drill new ones. Should be weather cover.
Dinosaur board
Amazon Dinosaur boards
Amazon Dino boards

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
Dinosaur is located in Depoe Bay. Boss is very helpful on the phone.
I grew up in Beaverton!

We're in Culver.

I thought I could probably get this for starters

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-93189-Wiring-Harness/dp/B009UPLM4Y/ref=pd_sim_263_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3BBSHYZDMKT6Y5J4XNT8

(Same wiring config as mine)

Still trying to find a board that would make sense.

[enblethen]

Dinosaur is located in Depoe Bay. Boss is very helpful on the phone.
I grew up in Beaverton!

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
Your profile doesn't say where you are physically located. There must be competent RV repairman in your area.
I had problems with my gas valve ground that had me going for a while. I finally ran a ground from the circuit board to the ground connection on the gas valve.
Some salvage locations will have the harness for near nothing. Circuit board online should be less then $100.
There is that much more to the unit.

Im in Oregon

[enblethen]

Your profile doesn't say where you are physically located. There must be competent RV repairman in your area.
I had problems with my gas valve ground that had me going for a while. I finally ran a ground from the circuit board to the ground connection on the gas valve.
Some salvage locations will have the harness for near nothing. Circuit board online should be less then $100.
There is that much more to the unit.

[hamel]

The issue that started this all was sometimes I would have to switch the water heater on and off for like 40 minutes to get it to fire. Some days I would spend all day flipping the switch for it to never turn on. Some days it turns on then shuts off at random times or wouldn't refire after using some of the hot water. Some days it worked perfect.

I figured it'd be a sweet deal to upgrade to an electric one as mine is only propane. Along with that the water tank is 21 years old. The control board I took off looked like the little parts were decomposing. I figured it'd just be smart to replace anyways. Otherwise my BIGGEST problem is trying to get a price to fix it. No one will just come check it out and give me a price and every shop I go to just seems a rude and unwilling to help. Maybe it's my young age. I have a feeling after labor and parts it would cost the same amount as buying the $350 one and doing it myself. In addition I don't want to get a new board only for it not to work and me be out ANOTHER $150 that I could have put towards a new tank. I was even thinking I could buy the $350 Gas/Electric one and then pay someone off craigslist 100 bucks and a 6 pack to come spend a couple hours with me to help put it in.

[hamel]

.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I read this on the website

Suburban's ON DEMAND WATER HEATER is controlled from within the coach with either a standard ON/OFF switch and light (sold separately) or an upgraded On-Demand Control Center (sold separately) available in black or white. The On-Demand Control Center provides precise temperature control for reliable and consistent comfort from the convenience of your RV.

With Dimensions of 12.496" H x 12.449" W x 20.441" D, the IW60 ON DEMAND WATER HEATER is sized to replace any Suburban 6, 10, 12 or 16 Gallon Tank model or any Atwood 6 or 10 gallon model. An Access Panel, and Vent Cap (purchased separately) are Required When Replacing Suburban or Atwood Tanks.

General Information:

Longer Life
Faster Recovery
More Hot Water and Fewer Cool Water Cycles
Pilot, and Direct Spark Ignition Options
Limit Switch, Reset Button and On/Off Electric Element Rocker Switch Are Conveniently Located In a Housing Behind The Removable Outer Door
Designed for Easy Installation, Operation, and Maintenance
Limited 2 Year Warranty

42,000 BTU -should- heat 35 degree water to 120F "mixed" which is too hot for showering. But remember this. A gallon of vinegar at 150F in a regular hot water heater tank neutralized with a pound of baking soda will remove about two pounds of "lime" (mineral) buildup. Can't do that with a demand water heater.

So be prepared like I am preparing myself for a chew & spit piece of merchandise. It will enjoy a lifetime, finite by how much total dissolved solids it precipitates out of your domestic water supply.

I realize a standard water heater can sit there and inefficiently heat water through thick line deposits until it is hot enough to use. A demand water heater does not enjoy that luxury.

Yes this is peering through the wrong end of an optiminst's telescope but it is a fact that should be made known.

I am opting for the demand heater albeit a household model, despite this wart.

A five gallon pot has now gone three months powering the stove. When a brand new 17.5 gallon tank heater was set halfway up the scale the same pot lasted me 12 days. Showering once a day. One person. 15-minutes. Warmed 17.5 gallons ran out just as I rinse my hair. Warmed is not hot. The heater is a scumbag made in Mexico model. But it was purchased and installed by the owner three days after I moved in. And three techs have checked it for flame color and leaks from the tank to the burner. I am not going to blow fifty eight dollars every two months to have water than runs cold at the end of a shower.

[enblethen]

I am not sure if I would jump out and replace the complete unit.
I would get a proper harness and a Dinosaur electronics board.
With moving wires around, you could have damaged the voard you have.
What was wrong with the water heater to start this big problem? The old board may still be good.

[hamel]

So do you think the tankless I listed at 42,000 BTU would be a solid choice for this price?

$478.99
Sale Prices Shown are Valid Until 11/24/17.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I am considering a tankless water heater for this concrete and more concrete...

DERATING...

The heaters are rated on gallons per minute...

But it depends

On incoming versus outgoing temperature differential. A 40 degree incoming water difference can make a stunning difference in output capacity.

Mixing it's heated water product with 45F water is a lot different than mixing it's heated water with 75F incoming water.

The greater the temperature differential of one or both
Can make or break a heater size selection
Use wisdom. Check dozen times, then buy with confidence.

Ninety percent of the yowls I have heard come from folks who greatly undersized the capacity of their heater.

[hamel]

I was also wondering for $150 more would it be worth it to use a tankless water heater?

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/rv-water-heaters/rv-water-heaters/rv-tankless-water-heater-girard-gswh2_42.3250?jt=1&jap=1o3&js=1&jsid=36859&jcpid=8a8ae4cd48005458014820e2e0170ec4&jkId=gcp:se_36859:pp_377451489008:ag_15211804824:cp_194253624:n_g:d_c:cr_52737673584&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7_zHrtrQ1wIVCb3sCh0dwAZ2EAQYAyABEgKSOvD_BwE

[hamel]

Alright guys so I think what I'll do is buy one off ebay then let them install for $105 or I'll do it myself.

My thing is I don't want to waste any more money. I want to know if this would work.

I currently have an Atwood 6 gallon G6A-8E. It is a direct spark ignition that operates on propane. I want to replace it with one that operates on both propane and electric. The RV shop said this is pretty easy as long as it's not too far to wire the 110v.

I want to know if this one would work:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RV-ATWOOD-6-GALLON-GAS-ELECTRIC-GC6AA-10E-WATER-HEATER-DSI/312005201608?hash=item48a4f58ec8:g:qZsAAOSwgZ1XrQtC&vxp=mtr


My concern is my current setup just doesn't seem to have so many wires as this one. The guy said I would need a new face plate in the bathroom they'd just add another switch.


I have a 1996 Holiday Rambler

[SDcampowneroper]

ebay. 6 gal. atwood or suburban $240-330 depending on dsi, manual, or with 120v.
10 gals are about $80 more. All it takes is a screwdriver and pliers to change one and a little common sense. An hours job for the experienced.