Can't fix my water heater!! GOING INSANE!

[hamel]

I own a 1996 Holiday Rambler Vacationer SE, Class A motorhome. This is my first RV and I've been fixing any issues (LOTS OF ISSUES! -.-) by myself to save money. I was having an issue with my water heater (before I fixed anything) where I would switch the switch on and it would be in lockout mode and I'd have to switch it on and off for like 40 minutes before it'd kick on. Sometimes it'd stay on, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes it would reheat properly, sometimes it wouldn't. Sometimes I just couldn't get it out of lockout and I'd have to try the next day.

Fast forward. I want to fix this thing. I bought all new parts on Amazon. This included, new control board, new eco and thermo, and new thermal cutoff. I replaced everything and finally got to the wiring where I was confused. The connector was different then the one I had on before but I was assured this control panel would work with my model, the G6A-8E. After TONS of trial and error switching the cables in different spots (probably not the best idea, I know) I finally found a wire sequence where the igniter would start sparking and the lockout light would stay off. (I looked in the manual for the wiring sequence. The one it showed didn't work. I looked everywhere online, couldn't find anything and the sequence of wiring before I switched out the board didn't work either). After buttoning everything up and a very long day I went inside and held my breath as I pressed the switch.

BOOM! IGNITION! FLAWLESSLY!

I can't tell you how happy I was, let alone my wife. I took a super hot amazing shower. As soon as the hot water in the tank dropped I heard it kick back on, beautifully. My wife took a shower; kicked right back on. Dishes were next; kicked right on. I thought this was the end of the hot water fiasco. Another challenge triumphed. Wellllllllllllllll, I was wrong.

The next night my wife went to switch on the water heater so we could do dishes. Then came the dreaded, "Juuuuuuusssssstinnn........... The water heater isn't turning on". I always assume she messes something up so I go and check but low and behold; not working. I go outside do my normal checks, wires, connections, etc. I have her try it a couple of times and I realize the igniter is still sparking but I don't hear propane spraying at all. The other strange thing is the lockout light didn't come on (which makes me wonder if my wiring sequence is still wrong). I've tried all sorts of things, checked everything I could on the internet, check my manual, but I can not figure this out. I'm hoping it is the stupid wiring sequence but I am just confused why it worked flawless just for the next day it not to work at all. I have propane and the stove tops have been working fine. This is my last resort before calling a tech, which I don't want to do.

Pictures attached of Before/After
https://imgur.com/a/x5FEA

[hamel]

I went to two RV shops today to check about getting a replacement. One shop wants about $900, the other want's $1200. Both were loooking to purchase from some catalog they have at about $755 for the water heater. The rest in both cases was for labor.

This seems crazy high to me...Anyone think?

[enblethen]

Went back through your photos. Make sure each of the terminations are clean and no hang nails are touching other bare conductors.
Do you smell propane? If you do, use a long lighter to attempt to light the water heater immediately after helper turns switch to on.
Keep face away from burner exhaust.

[enblethen]

If you pull the blue wire loose at the circuit board the LED should go out.

[enblethen]

That could be correct. Switch in on position, light in switch lights. LED should come on while ignitor fires then shuts off if water heater lights, stays on if it does not.
Did the ignitor work on the water heater?
Is it wired as shown in manual?

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
That is the small holes?
If so the blue wire connects to the heater LED, looks like red wire is it.
Circuit board is wired as noted earlier.
Brown from switch, blue to LED, red to gas valve, green is 12 volt negative.
Suggest applying power to the LED to insure it works.
Switch light would be on when water heater switch is on.

Both lights come on

https://imgur.com/a/lJc5M

[enblethen]

That is the small holes?
If so the blue wire connects to the heater LED, looks like red wire is it.
Circuit board is wired as noted earlier.
Brown from switch, blue to LED, red to gas valve, green is 12 volt negative.
Suggest applying power to the LED to insure it works.
Switch light would be on when water heater switch is on.

[hamel]

The water heater switch and pump switch have a red led light. The other switch you just hold and it shows the levels in your tanks and propane. That one doesn't have an LED.

[enblethen]

The white and red wires between the switches on the back would be the possible feed to LEDs.

[enblethen]

The small holes adjacent to the pump and heater switches, do they have LEDs?
LEDs are like little lights.

[hamel]

https://imgur.com/a/CX5ph

Only difference I notice is it seems the new one has 2 silvers and one copper prong. The old one just has 3 silver. Either that or its just an old switch and I can't tell.

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
Do you have the old switch? Did it have four terminals?
Photo two, the test switch is to show the condition of the leds for tank levels. Center switch turns water pump on and off, right switch if for water heater(?)

So the old one looks the same, almost identical. That's why I bought it. The only thing I could think was that it could be a different voltage or something? Way out of my education level at this point.

I'm still waiting for this RV tech to email me back with a price. I'm hoping I can just bite the bullet and upgrade to electric at the same time for a price I can afford.

[enblethen]

Do you have the old switch? Did it have four terminals?
Photo two, the test switch is to show the condition of the leds for tank levels. Center switch turns water pump on and off, right switch if for water heater(?)

[hamel]

enblethen wrote:
OK, rig manufactuerer didn't use one from Atwood. Cheaper to buy set up like you have.
The blue wire or what ever color the blue wire changes to connects to the light off set.
The lighted switch can be used to turn water heater on/off. The lamp in it would just tell you that the water heater is on.
The white wire currently on the switch, where was it connected before?

So take a look at these two pictures I just took. At that point you'll know as much as me about it, hah!

https://imgur.com/a/hUzok

[enblethen]

OK, rig manufactuerer didn't use one from Atwood. Cheaper to buy set up like you have.
The blue wire or what ever color the blue wire changes to connects to the light off set.
The lighted switch can be used to turn water heater on/off. The lamp in it would just tell you that the water heater is on.
The white wire currently on the switch, where was it connected before?

[hamel]

hamel wrote:

enblethen wrote:
You need to identify the wire the blue leaves from the circuit board at the switch end.
The switch should have a wire that comes from the 12 volt DC positive, a wire that goes to the circuit board, brown input, the return, blue wire from the circuit board and a negative from the 12 volt system.
Added up that is four wires.
Look at page 7 of the manual, upper right corner.
Where did you get switch? It is the wrong one!

You know, I told my wife this. I'm thinking its the switch too! The switch that was in there I accidentally broke so I went to auto zone and found a three pronged switch that looked the same size.

Hopefully you read this and go, "DUH YOU IDIOT! GO GET A NEW SWITCH AT "BLAH BLAH BLAH" THAT'll FIX IT!"

LOL. Let me know what you think.

The switch I had before though didn't look like the manual one either though. The light is offset on the board not the switch like this.