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Can't get 12v power and boondocking

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
Hi - I'm a newbie RV'er and I'm having an issue. You guys have helped me before, and I'm hoping you might be able to help again. My Rockwood Roo 19 (2014) has been in storage on shore power for a couple weeks, and I just picked it up for a weekend boondocking. When I picked it up, I was getting power without a problem and it showed the battery full (it was also hooked up to the car).

I arrived and got set up, but now I'm not getting any 12v power. I checked my circuit breakers on the converter - none are tripped and fuses are good. I switched the converter circuit breaker off and back on and the fan runs for a couple seconds then stops (maybe since battery is full?).

After I disconnected from the generator, I checked the panel and the battery briefly flashed full, then nothing. Can't get any power to it.

Any ideas what the issue might be? Bad connection? Bad converter? It's a new battery so that hopefully shouldn't be the issue.

Thank you in advance - as always I appreciate your insight.
37 REPLIES 37

Dean73
Explorer
Explorer

Behind the tongue on the right side facing trailer there are 3 small fuse blocks tucked up under the frame. One of theses blocks has a reset button. 

While I am sure this information would have been helpful to the OP, this topic is 5 years old. 


Jeff - 2023 FR Sunseeker 2400B MBS

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
Electrical problems, especially intermittent ones can be frustrating; Hopefully all is well now and you can enjoy some camping.

I'm curious though as to your tow vehicle. You mentioned car multiple times in your posts so I'm assuming it is in fact a car. What year make and model is it? I'm really wondering if the wiring hookup was straightforward or if it was something custom for that specific vehicle?
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all - quick update. I took it into the place that installed the hitch, wiring harness and brake controller.

They checked and found that the fuse for the power to the camper on the wiring harness was blown, which is what was causing the issue (the other one for the brakes was not - hence the reason brakes were working).

They said the camper may have caused the fuse to blow out a while back - but just to monitor it and if it continues to happen to bring it in.

Anyway - thanks everyone for your help, and hopefully the issue has been resolved.

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
jkwilson wrote:
I think you need to get some help. Brake lights on the trailer, the actual trailer brakes, and the charging circuit are separate circuits. Where do you have a 30A breaker tripping on the road?


The breaker tripping is the one a few feet away from the plug under the trailer where the positive cable comes in. The brake lights and the inside 12v electronics won't work. I believe the actual brakes work - is it possible the lights and the charging circuit are on the same circuit?

I may take it back to the people who installed the hitch and harness in my car to look at it.

jkwilson
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think you need to get some help. Brake lights on the trailer, the actual trailer brakes, and the charging circuit are separate circuits. Where do you have a 30A breaker tripping on the road?
John & Kathy
2014 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS
2014 F250 SBCC 6.2L 3.73

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
Just bumping this one.

Does it seem more likely the reason for the tripping circuit breaker is caused by my car with the new brake controller installed, or the camper?

thanks in advance - and hope all of you have a Happy Thanksgiving!

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all - thanks again for your your comments and advice on this.

I took it out Sunday and had a similar issue - where the brakes seemed to jolt a couple times early on into my drive, and then stopped (presumably since the 12 volt breaker had tripped), since the turn signals and brake lights stopped working after that.

I got a brake controller and hitch installed on my car a couple months ago (around the time I bought the camper) since it didn't have factory wiring - is it likely that my car is the culprit, or more likely the camper? I bought it used from a trustworthy guy who I still talk to about questions/issues with it - and he never had issues like this.

I may take it back to the place who did the work on my car to get them to look at the wiring setup since the work is still under warranty.

cavie
Explorer
Explorer
Fix one thing at a time. 12 volt then 120 volt. Get some hands on help.
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323BHS. Retired Master Electrician. Retired Building Inspector.

All Motor Homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor Homes.

opnspaces
Navigator II
Navigator II
That breaker will work fine. But I unfortunately it's not going to fix the problem.

You stated you were driving and the right side brake and brake light came on. Those are two separate circuits and would not be caused by a breaker. The fact that the breaker tripped is because there is a loose ground or a short in your wiring that is causing the lights to do weird things and ultimately trip the breaker to protect the wiring.

Check to see if the end of your umbilical cord has a removable end. If so then loosen the screws and pull the housing back. Check that all the wires are seated firmly and the screws are tight. Make sure there are no stray strands of wire jumping between any two connections.

If you find no issues or the end is not removable the move to the other end of the cord. Make sure all the connections are tight. Also inspect the cord for signs of being dragged or pinched between the trailer and tow vehicle.

If you find nothing then hook up the tow vehicle and plug in the cord. Turn on the ignition and turn on the lights. Have someone stand behind the trailer while you bend, tug twist and shake the umbilical. If a light on the trailer comes on then you have a short in the cord.

If still no light, then while your helper is still watching crawl under the trailer and gently wiggle any and all wires you can find. Make sure you pay attention to where the brake wires disappear into the axles.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
Hi all - I'm going to be replacing the circuit breaker, and looking for the right one. Is this type of breaker I should be getting to replace it? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DLRZTLG/

Should I be looking to upgrade to a better model, or just go for the inexpensive option here?

Thanks in advance -

brows827
Explorer
Explorer
To clarify - it's my car that is shocking me, not the camper.

AllegroD
Nomad
Nomad
brows827 wrote:
AllegroD wrote:
brows827 wrote:
Last update: as I've been driving on the road, the breaker has tripped a couple more times - I thought it might have to do with turning off/on the car, but that's not it - I can't reproduce the issue.

I'm sure it is just because it was a dry day, but I also got shocked by my car two or three times.

Anyway, the only common factor for this issue is when I'm towing.

Whoa there! Let's back up a bit. You got shocked by your car. Were you connected to the trailer. You might have a bigger issue than your breaker.


Sorry for the delay - as for getting shocked: yes, I was hooked up to the trailer. I get shocked from time to time getting out of my car (yesterday, not connected to the trailer) - it's typically on dry days where static electricity has built up. I don't think it's related to being hooked up.


I would have this checked. This could be caused by a reverse polarity in your shore line or improper grounding. This can escalate to electrocution.

ghooos
Explorer
Explorer
One other thing - the tongue jack works just fine on battery but nothing else will inside.