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Charging Timer?

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Would this gizmo be any use? Instructions at bottom of the link--none come with package as they warn.

Not sure I am reading it right--need more eyes on to confirm. Thanks.

Seems to answer the problem of how to put a timer on your charger if you don't put a "regular" timer on the 120v. Not clear if you are left with no charging at all. You could have the converter at 13.6 and use another charger at 14.6 with this timer? (when 14.6 time is up the 13.6 would be there to carry on in that case)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224065068787?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item342b519ef3:g:FdoAAOSwxWFe~PRF&amda...
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
19 REPLIES 19

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Amazon has Intermatics by the railroad boxcar full. The OMRON electronic I used was pricey but could be fed with 12 volts to 480 volts AC or DC.

I have a drawerful of cheap timers that don't.

But I have a small box of Intermatics that will.
I guess my patience tolerance is quite low.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Gdetrailer wrote:


Otherwise, what would be the point of a timer that looses not only the time but the programming..

You can also opt for the simpler and cheaper "mechanical" versions that use a adjustable "pin" to trip on/off, those typically give you 30 minute increments and are "24hr" type which means the program repeats every 24 hrs.



Found HERE for about $8

Granted, the time will stop when you lose power, no big deal when it comes to charging a battery and you can leave it pickup anytime the power comes back on or adjust it.

Dirt cheap, simple and reliable.

My local Ham radio clubs used the simple timer method for 20 some yrs to maintain backup power (old car battery) for the clubs emergency communications shack.. Now days they use newer tech but idea is still the same.

As a note, you want one that is rated for appliances which uses relays or mechanical switches. Ones not rated for appliances can and often use solid state Triac devices to do the switching which may not work well with your converter or power supply.


The mechanical ones are currently at Dollerama in Canada for $4.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Screwup Proofing is why I use a timer.
Infallible reliability is why I chose the Intermatic mechanical windup timer.

Saving a few dollars which destroys a few thousand fails the wisdom test utterly.

For example when I did battery cycle testing, I chose a 12-volt powered OMRON timer that over-rode the voltage limit switches. Destroying a pallet of L16s was not an option.

The fact that the wind up timers work in commercial restrooms is a testament of their reliability and ruggedness.

Are they accurate? Down to the minute? Hell no. Did I need resolution down to the minute? Hell no.

I just needed an absolutely reliable cutoff without being forced to learn c++ programming language.


Wind up timers used to be a pretty easy item to find, now days they are pretty rare to find in big box stores and are more of a electrical supply specialty warehouse item or Internet item.

Granted, they are reliable but now days reliability and availability are issues.

Does anyone "need" to the minute program ability for a battery charger?

No.

But it is a very nice "feature" on advanced digital timers like the DT206 I linked. Digital timers have come a long way from the first one I had bought which was a real bear to program.. The newer timers have made the programming a breeze and battery backup takes care of power outages for keeping time and program.

I used a DT206 to handle my gardening watering system this yr, worked flawless and because of the minute resolution I was able to keep my small roof top garden watered for one week at a time on less than 30 gallons of water per week..

Battery charging is a lot less demanding application, pretty much any timer that offers a one on/off cycle per day and does not lose the program setting if power goes out will easily suffice.. Time? Who cares if it turns on/off in the middle of the night..

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
Gdetrailer,

Does it retain it's "memory" if the power goes off?


Yes.

Uses a Lithium "CR" button style battery which should be pretty good even in extreme cold weather.

Example is a popular CR2032 HERE operating temp is -30C to +60C (note Celsius) and has a self discharge rate of about 1% per yr and typically you can expect 5 to 10 yrs from them.

Otherwise, what would be the point of a timer that looses not only the time but the programming..

You can also opt for the simpler and cheaper "mechanical" versions that use a adjustable "pin" to trip on/off, those typically give you 30 minute increments and are "24hr" type which means the program repeats every 24 hrs.



Found HERE for about $8

Granted, the time will stop when you lose power, no big deal when it comes to charging a battery and you can leave it pickup anytime the power comes back on or adjust it.

Dirt cheap, simple and reliable.

My local Ham radio clubs used the simple timer method for 20 some yrs to maintain backup power (old car battery) for the clubs emergency communications shack.. Now days they use newer tech but idea is still the same.

As a note, you want one that is rated for appliances which uses relays or mechanical switches. Ones not rated for appliances can and often use solid state Triac devices to do the switching which may not work well with your converter or power supply.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Gdetrailer,

Does it retain it's "memory" if the power goes off?

Similar models from Intermatic actually have a battery to run the clock.

Personally, I use an old fashioned mechanical lamp timer on my battery maintainer. I just set it for about 4 hours per day. Who cares which 4 hours.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Screwup Proofing is why I use a timer.
Infallible reliability is why I chose the Intermatic mechanical windup timer.

Saving a few dollars which destroys a few thousand fails the wisdom test utterly.

For example when I did battery cycle testing, I chose a 12-volt powered OMRON timer that over-rode the voltage limit switches. Destroying a pallet of L16s was not an option.

The fact that the wind up timers work in commercial restrooms is a testament of their reliability and ruggedness.

Are they accurate? Down to the minute? Hell no. Did I need resolution down to the minute? Hell no.

I just needed an absolutely reliable cutoff without being forced to learn c++ programming language.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Gdetrailer,

Does it retain it's "memory" if the power goes off?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just buy a good quality digital appliance timer like this..



Intermatic DT620

HERE

Yeah, not cheap at $30 or so but fully programmable in one minute increments with 7 day a week program.

Plug your converter into it, program it for how much time you want it to run per day and then let it rip.

I know you are always searching for bargains, but if you want reliability, sometimes you must pay for it.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Myself, the Trimetric Monitor with its ammeter is what I go by using manual control of absorption time. When the amps get down to spec for "full" I manually stop the Absorption Voltage and go to Float.

I would like an "automatic" control that uses the low amps (set to my low) to do that sometime during the night when I am not there to watch it and switch over, but the nearest thing to that I have is my old Vector charger set to Equalize that shuts off by itself whenever it somehow decides it is done. I confirm that with an hydrometer, and the Vector is right. Gotta love that Vector --no longer made! ๐Ÿ˜ž Hope mine lasts me out.

The DC timer for the voltage using whatever means for time, means you have to guess how long it will be for the amps to taper to spec "full" or overshoot (where going longer for a little while won't hurt--as Mex has pointed out several times)

The idea is not to undershoot the time and leave the batts undercharged, which is where many chargers and three-stage ones too, will leave them.

I think the gizmo is actually for LFPs to not leave them at 14.6 overly long, but could be applied to all battery type charging if it were any good, and you knew the right time to set for your scenario.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
If you lust for an electric timer. Use an OMRON. Japanese. And they last.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Look on Amazon for square face 200 - Amp DC relay.The Intermatic is a snap action switch. The relay should last forever x 12.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Wind up timer powering a constant duty relay. Chinese electronic timers are
J U N K
even the most expensive Chinese models blow up

I have never had a failure with an Intermatic.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Been many threads on this. A typical three- stage converter does not meet all needs for absorption timing. Eg the CW four hours might be too long or too short.

If you use a single stage charger set at 14.6, you want to control the time that is left on. If manual control is not convenient, a timer can be used to pick a suitable absorption time.

Mex likes the household type of lights timer on the 120v side. Some fancy chargers will let you set an absorption voltage and an absorption time.
I thought this gizmo is an attempt to insert that fancy feature into the DC side of an ordinary charger.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Why use a timer
There are 3 types of Converter/chargers that I know off of hand
"Constant voltage" (one stage)
Two voltage (Times or sensed the parallex 7300T is a timed bulk then it goes to float
And 3 or 3+ stage (the best) the Progressive Dynamics 9200 and IOTA IQ4 models top this list.

Pick any other than the first.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times