Forum Discussion

Monant's avatar
Monant
Explorer
Feb 26, 2017

Circuit Breaker

I need to replace a shortstop circuit breaker and can't find a replacement. The only identifying information on it is Shortstop, 12V, Y09, 06A.

The 12V is for volts, the 06A should be the amp rating, not sure what the Y09 indicates.

I would appreciate any assistance I can get for a source and usable part number.
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    Y09 means one of two things,, When it was made or the case and terminal style, Ignore that and go with the 6 Amp.

    NOTE: 12 volts is a "Minimum" rating, if you get one rated for 24 or 48, that's good too. You won't find one rated for less than 12 so don't worry about that.

    There are basically only a few factors other than the case/terminal arrangement
    Max voltage
    Trip current
    Delay
    Delay is flexible on most systems, and often not specified
    Self resetting/Manual reset
    And "Hold off resetting till current stops" (I think the Shortstop line does this, once it tripps it stays tripped till power is removed or the short(all loads) are removed).
  • Circuit Breaker + Electronics = Bad Ju Ju

    Thermally sensitive
    Incredibly imprecise response
    Only a reset upon disconnect/reconnect would prevent battery drain during a fault

    It's why electronics have fuses. It's why $$$ inverters use fuses. Oh shoot even a Wif-Co uses a fuse.

    Power windows in cars have power off reset circuit breakers. So when Little Susie cranks up the window on brother Johnny's neck when mom returns she can twist the ignition key and the breaker will have reset. Dunno about Johnny - he'll be harder to reset.
  • It would not be 60A as the short stop series maxes out at 50A. 6A is an odd size but I've seen one on my motorhome and ended up replacing it with a 5A fuse. I think it goes to the memory backup power for the radio but I am not sure.

    If this is perchance for a Coachmen RV and it has a little bus bar and plastic holder arrangement for up to four of these breakers, I'd suggest replacing the plastic holder with the equivalent metal bracket that wiring products sells. The reason is that the plastic holder insulates one of the lead wires from the base of the terminal stud on the breaker, forcing the current to flow through the nut and the threaded interface between it and the stud. The threaded junction is not designed to be a current carrying connection. (The metal brackets have the same spacing ad the plastic holder so the little bus bar piece will still work.)

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