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Converters

dmitchal
Explorer
Explorer
Does anyone have any knowledge of the 120v converters? I have a 37', triple axle, 3 slides, 2 refrigerators, 2 heat pumps(for belly a/c), washer and dryer, microwave etc. in an Alfa Gold. Can anyone tell me why it came with an 80 amp converter? I no longer use the belly a/c, and I have replaced both rv refrigerators with conventional refrigerators. I am permanently set-up in a park.
Is there any reason why I cannot use a 50, 60, 70 amp converter??? Hate to spend big bucks for the giant converters.
Thank you so much.
David
11 REPLIES 11

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
If you have a lot of incandescent lights, you need a big converter.

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
Just because the converter is rated for 80 amps doesn't mean it's always putting out 80, or that it will use drastically more electricity than a 40 amp.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
dmitchal wrote:
I am permanently set-up in a park.
30 to 45 is plenty. No battery needed unless you roll. But I do recommend at least one small battery for a power outage.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Boondocker-BD-1235C-35-Amp-4-Stage-ConverterCharger $145

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Converter size is determined (up to a point) by battery capacity.

One pair of GC-2 takes 60-70 amps. Two pair 80 and that's about the biggest they get in converter only.

A Factory Refurb Progressive Industries 9180 is about 236 dollars puls another 30 for a charge wizard if you need 'em (They shop express from Marshall, MI).

I did not price the 9280 or the 4680 but am guessing same price range (200-250) and those are my recommendations.

Now using a SMALLER one (IE 9260) it will take longer to recharge the batteries and unless you have LIfeline AGM's. likely a good thing. The 60-70 (really 66) is based on 30% C/20.. Trojan recommends 10% C/20 for longer battery life.
C/20 is the 20 hour amp hour rating of the battery.

So there is in fact no reason not to use a smaller converter in most all cases.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
I would go with a 55 amp replacement. Doug


BUT....be sure it is a "smart" 3 or 4 stage one....so it will properly "float" the batteries without frying them.

IF.....the original one is still working, there is NO REASON to replace it.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
They installed LARGE (80 amp) converters because the 12 volt requirement of a particular RV needed than many amps to operate ALL the 12 volt appliances if operated at once. So, you do NOT need to replace it with the 80 amp if you have remove some of the 12 volt appliances. I would go with a 55 amp replacement. Doug

Cydog15
Explorer
Explorer
These guys have been helping everybody for 15 years and always take calls and answer tech questions. bestconverter
I agree with Bob, don't get the WFCO. I like the Boondocker and PD Inteli-Power models for our units.

bobsallyh
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have an Alfa Gold also with a 80 amp converter. I really don't use it anymore since I put solar and an inverter/charger. I believe the reason for the 80 amp at birth for mine was all 12v stuff plus the ability to charge the two batteries. You can certainly go lower but don't go too far. Try donrowe.com I also say no WFCO converters! I have changed numerous WFCO converters out for friends. Personally a POS.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

You don't need a huge or fancy converter. Is the one you have now broken?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Jim
Explorer
Explorer
Converter = 120Vac to 14Vdc
Inverter = 12Vdc to 120Vac.

Likely came with a bigger converter (if that's what you're talking about) to supply the batteries you have. The rule of thumb for design work is a 100% overhead so if 40 amp is considered the typical draw, because of all the loads you have potentially, then an 80 amp converter makes sense.

When you try to reverse engineer something like that, be careful. The engineers often know what they're doing.

None of the items you mentioned draw much current from the batteries but I suspect there's an INVERTER somewhere with several outlets. They aren't very efficient and the higher amp converter would be to replenish the batteries quickly on shore power if you used the inverter a lot while boondocking.
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
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Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Waited an entire minute before reposting.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad