Did I miss anything?

[D_E_Bishop]

A few days back I posted about replacing my damaged 10watt solar panel that is basically useless and does not work anyway. We are in the process of selling the rig and I don’t want to spend a lot of money putting in something I will not be using and which will not improve the sales price. So please don’t suggest I go whole hog and upgrade to 65 thousand watts of solar.

I am however following many of your suggestions. Solar Blvd was suggested as a dealer to check out, I am going to purchase from them and probably a 60 watt panel. I also found a 10 amp, multi stage charge controller that I think will look good as an add on panel. So that is my proposed system, now for connecting it.

I plan on feeding new wire for the entire way from the roof to the batteries. Currently there are two 16 gauge wires run in a circuitous route from the panel inboard of the fridge vent on the right side of the roof, down into the bowels of the rig over to the All In One Panel and then back to the right side to the batteries via overload protection which is about 35 feet. The only reason for running wires to the All in One Panel is to power the indicator light showing the panel is working and the input/output wires drop down to # 24 or 26 AWG where they connect to that circuit. There isn’t any controller, in the panel is a circuit with a few diodes to prevent feedback and a resistor to regulate the voltage to the indicator light. I am abandoning that circuit wires and all. From where the panel is mounted, down to the raceway under the fridge to the main converter is about 16 feet. According to a recommended App that calculates wire sizing for solar systems, I can use #14 AWG cable.

So if I can find the actual location where the existing wiring is connected to the batteries, I will connect the new cable there. If I don’t find it, can I connect the wires from the solar controller to the wires from the converter output to the batteries. According to my E&E professor there is theoretically no difference between either end of a 5 foot wire, so it should be okay, right? Connect to the output of the converter or the battery buss 5 or 6 feet away, either should be good.

I did make one assumption and that is that the solar panel and the controller were both working at 100 percent efficiency of their ratings. Not too likely to happen but a positive fudge factor.

So did I miss anything?

[SoundGuy]

Agree with everyone else - why bother? :h

[ScottG]

Same as everyone else. I wouldn't bother.
But it does show you take excellent care of your things!

[wildtoad]

I agree with the two posts above. A lot of work and cost that you will not recoup from the sale.

[DutchmenSport]

Well, maybe my logic is a bit different here. If you are selling the camper, why bother putting new on it? It's much easier to just remove the old and be done with it. No reason to pull out old wiring either. Just seal up any hole in the camper to make it look like it belong, and sell it. The new buyer might not want solar anyway.

Just my thoughts. Do as you wish. Sounds like a lot of work for nothing, which will not add any value to the camper anyway. But, that's just me.

[2oldman]

If you think this will help sell it, ok, but I wouldn't even bother.