DIY rear storage box (see video)

[evy]

Hi everyone,

I'm working on my very first DIY camper conversion, using a 2010 extended Ford E250.

I want to add a rear storage box similar to the ones that Aluminess make but I don't want to change the whole bumper anyways it's way out of my budget.

Instead of posting drawings and trying to put in writing what's in my head I decided to make a video.

https://youtu.be/l0A9FNbgVqg

Tell me what you think guys.
Thanks for any help!

[evy]

Just stumbled on this picture from 86Scotty on sportsmobile.com
His box is bolted the door, not resting on the bumper at all, the size and weight seems very similar (my box would be as tall as his 3 jerry cans).
I sent him a message to see if he had any issues (fingers crossed).


Sportsmobile Forum - 86Scotty's Album: 86Scotty - Picture

[evy]

DrewE wrote:
In my opinion, the mounting to the door as you describe is entirely over the top in terms of strength. Your box mount would be stronger than the hinges holding the door onto the van (or close to that) with ten bolts and a 1/4" steel backer plate. That's not a problem in itself, I guess, but it is unnecessary weight. Likewise, I suspect that 3/16" aluminum is very much overkill for the weight that will be carried.
Actually the backing plate will also be aluminum, if I put 5 or 3 bolts each row may not change much you're right, as long as the backing is one piece it will distribute the weight evenly when the vehicle moves forward or stops, I was afraid that if I simply put a washer on each bolt that the van's panel would warp or something.
and the thickness of the box will probably be more like 1/8" I'm not sure. What do you think?

Per the US DOT, as I understand things, carrying propane (at least in any sort of permanent configuration) is illegal if the propane tank is either above the roof, below the vehicle frame, or extends out beyond the front or back bumper. That possibly might not apply to a portable tank in a cargo box, at least technically, but that does nothing to address the rather obvious safety concerns that led to the regulations. In a crash you would prefer not to have the propane tank obliterated and its contents released suddenly. There are also requirements for venting a compartment carrying propane tanks (the bottom needs to be vented to the outside). I don't know anything about what Canadian regulations are like.
The only thing I have found for my region so far is the limits of quantities on a RV for road tunnels, bridges, and fairy boat (which I comply to) Also I found an article that said that the rear bumper needs to be extended to protect the box from impact but it's very vague.

Would the hose you referred to be a propane connection leading through the door? Are you not going to install your permanently mounted tank for some reason, or is there some other reason to need another tank connected?
Read my last post

About the only other suggestion I would have is to make sure the box doesn't block the lights. In particular, it looks to me like it would obscure the left turn signal for anybody who is much to the right of the centerline of the vehicle. Angling the end of the box inwards would help there, I think.
That is exactly what I thought when I started to work this idea but then I saw the Aluminess website, a big company that does something similar to what I want, look at the pictures in this link (ford vans) they have setups that block much more than what I'm thinking of doing.
And if they sell these things they have to be street legal logically.
http://www.aluminess.com/ford/ford-vans-1992-2007/ford-van-92-07-rear-bumper/
But I will probably reduce the depth of the box from 17" to 13"
The generator is 11" wide and a 20lb propane tank is 12" diam. that would surely help with visibility

By the way, your English is excellent.
Thank you 🙂 but I have to say that it takes a lot of concentration out of me, something's not normal when you have to think before saying the words you want to say, maybe if I would talk more often I could feel more comfortable.

[evy]

Sorry I couldn't add any more details on the box construction itself, this website has been crashing constantly for the past 24h, so here's what I didn't mention in the video.

The lower and higher compartments would be separated by a sealed shelf that would seal with a rubber gasket on the door when closed.

I said 3/16" thickness but I'm not sure of that maybe it's 1/8"?

The lower compartment would be lined with soundproof material on the inside, with vented air intake/exhaust and the generator would be mounted on a baseplate fited onto 4 vibration pads with springs (used for small hvac equipment, under 100lbs)
The main idea is to hardwire the generator to the transfer switch with an extension and take advantage of the remote start feature when ever I need it, without getting out or setting anything up.

The higher compartment would also be vented near the bottom of the shelf with four 2" diam holes with wire mesh,
I already have an LP gas tank under the van this would be an extra tank I would hook up to with a 4 way tee I added specifically for that purpose and yes I would remove it from the box when using it, it would only be in there for transportation purposes, it would sit at least 30" above the rear bumper or 50" above the ground so unless being rear ended by an 18 wheeler I don't think it would take a direct impact. I hope this complies with DOT regulations, I will check with Canadian laws (fingers crossed)

Remember that van's door would be closed almost all the time, if I were to open it for whatever reason, I would support it and close it back immediately. the weight I guestimated at 250/300lbs would rest on the rear bumper.

I hope this helps clarify things.
I also hope this website will not crash when posting this...

[DrewE]

In my opinion, the mounting to the door as you describe is entirely over the top in terms of strength. Your box mount would be stronger than the hinges holding the door onto the van (or close to that) with ten bolts and a 1/4" steel backer plate. That's not a problem in itself, I guess, but it is unnecessary weight. Likewise, I suspect that 3/16" aluminum is very much overkill for the weight that will be carried.

Per the US DOT, as I understand things, carrying propane (at least in any sort of permanent configuration) is illegal if the propane tank is either above the roof, below the vehicle frame, or extends out beyond the front or back bumper. That possibly might not apply to a portable tank in a cargo box, at least technically, but that does nothing to address the rather obvious safety concerns that led to the regulations. In a crash you would prefer not to have the propane tank obliterated and its contents released suddenly. There are also requirements for venting a compartment carrying propane tanks (the bottom needs to be vented to the outside). I don't know anything about what Canadian regulations are like.

Would the hose you referred to be a propane connection leading through the door? Are you not going to install your permanently mounted tank for some reason, or is there some other reason to need another tank connected?

About the only other suggestion I would have is to make sure the box doesn't block the lights. In particular, it looks to me like it would obscure the left turn signal for anybody who is much to the right of the centerline of the vehicle. Angling the end of the box inwards would help there, I think.

By the way, your English is excellent.

[Harvey51]

I like the idea of a very convenient metal storage box and your neat thought of having it on the door with the weight on the bumper. Three hundred pounds is scary, though.

I have a nice little 1000 watt generator for power outages at home - we live fairly far north in Canada and loss of our furnace on a winter day would be a serious matter. But I have never thought of taking it camping. For 20 years of camping with a popup trailer we charged our battery (a portable booster) from the van's alternator system. Now we have a 100 watt solar panel (system including battery controller and monitor cost less than the generator) that seems to keep the batteries properly charged for as long as we like. The weight of the panel is far less than a generator, it is out of the way on the roof, and it reliably and silently provides all the power we need.

[westend]

I would abandon that whole concept of attachment and the dual purpose of a generator and a propane tank in the same enclosure.

I'd suggest to weld in two hitch receivers to the vehicle frame. These receivers will offer attachment for a tray or boxes to hold the generator and the propane tank.

Do you plan to run the generator while it is positioned inside the enclosure? Without some severe separation of the generator and it's box from the vehicle, it will shake the whole body skin and be noisy as all get out. I don't think they make enough Sorbothane to isolate the generator's vibration from the vehicle.