Dodge Mobile traveler

[ziffell]

I have a 77 Mobile Traveler. If I put a volt meter on the coach battery and start the engine it will show well over 13 volts DC. If I plug the coach into 110 volt AC it doesn't show any battery charge voltage. If I disconect the battery The 110 volt circuts in the coach work but the 12 DC circuts don't. As it is the battery will be drained while pluged in and won't be recharged by the converter. It is a Power Converter charger Model PCM 15 NK. A manual would help. Thanks Arnie jimdonothing@yahoo.com

[DrewE]

Look at this thread on another forum with some pictures and schematics and such. While the specific thread relates to a PCM15CK, much of the posted information applies equally well to yours, which simply lacks the charger section. In other words, the converter apparently has no way of charging the battery by design. (You aren't missing much there; the charger on the CK model was rated at 1A charging current!)

Note that the brand is Basler (which, at least in the one pictured in the above thread, appears only in a little logo at the bottom) and the POWER CONVERTER/CHARGER part is just a generic descriptive name.

You would be very well served to replace this ancient converter with a modern unit. It's not worth attempting to repair it, if indeed it's broken. It could probably keep a door open that tends to close on its own, or prevent papers on a desk from blowing about in a stiff breeze, or possibly even prevent a small boat from drifting from a desired location when lowered on a rope to the bottom of the water.

[ziffell]

It is a POWER CONVERTER/CHARGER Model PCM 15 NK. I haven't been able to find any mention of it on the net. I thought if I had a schematic repairs would be simpler. If it is not fixable, a stand charger will be the answer. Thanks for the return note....Ziffell

[wa8yxm]

A '77 will most likely have a Magnetek 6300.. This may claim to be a 35 amp converter (And it is) but it only charges the battery at like 3.5 Amps. not enough for a volt meter to really sit up and take note for several hours.

now, a nice Progressive Dynamics 4645, That's a 45 amp converter/Charger. It can put the entire 45 amps into the house batteries if nothing else is drawing power and they are HUNGRY.. then as the voltage rises the charge drops off.. all the way, eventually, to Zero.. This never happens with the Magnetek so the batteries boil dry if left on charge too long.

[ziffell]

This got very complicated. What makes you think the battery is bad. We load checked it and it stands up very well.It is nearly new. You will also note from my post that we did check the alternator out put. Well over 13.8 measured at the house battery. That means the isolator is working. We don't have any loose connections. The only thing wrong is the charger in the converter is not working. It is not toast and would serve well if we repaired the DC charger. I am wondering how you know there are two loose connections without doing a voltage drop test. In all my years in business I tried to make mechanical judgements only after checking the problem on the vehicle, not remotely. This is an old unit and a new converter is a bad idea. But I do appreciate your expertise. Thanks...Ziffell

[Matt_Colie]

Ziffell,

As I read this, I can count at least four issues that require attention. There is really more wrong there than there is right. For years (before the depression of 09) I made a living diagnosing people's electrics remotely (often over marine VHF).
Let's start with the simple stuff.
1-Your converter is toast. That number is very old and even if it did still work, it has been so out-designed and it should be replace. Get a new 3 or 4 stage from Iota or Progressive Dynamics. If you have a single 12V, you can only use about 40 amps of charge at best so do not waste money on more.
2-You battery is done for. Even if you can get it to charge, why bother it will be a pain for all the future. If you plan to dry camp at all, see if you can fit a pair of golf cart batteries.
3-You have at least two bad connections in the system. You will have to find these and fix them, I cannot find them from here.
4-If your house battery is not shorted down (VERY DEAD), then your alternator is also in trouble (but this could be more bad connections). With the engine running, unless you combiner/isolator(or whatever) is dead, the battery should be over 14V for cold charging. Even a really old Mopar alternator should do that much.
Dealing with the noted should not be involved or expensive, but it should be done soon to contain the damage.
Good luck
Matt

[MrWizard]

yep no charge no output
verify the converter is getting 110v
you might need to replace the converter

[westend]

Given the age and condition of the converter, I'd suggest to buy a new one or use a standalone charger.

[1492]

Moved from Forum Technical Support

[gbopp]

Why not get a Battery Tender or a similar charger?