Dometic Control Board wiring

[RonWSl]

Without asking how I got in this fix, and before I rip out the dometic and replace it with a residential like I did on my last 2 Rv's I thought I would ask you knowleddgeable folks - I am having issues rewiring the control board, relay and terminal block on a dometic rm1350SLM. I bout a new control board and need to know what gets plugged into the 2 prongs marked "switched 12V" on the board (yes, i have the diagram but not helping me much) Are they both positive? Does a 12V positive also go to J1 and if so from the terminal block or the relay? Thanks.

[RonWSl]

I was afraid you would ask, but yes I marked the wires with tape, and had it running while sitting out of the box. In putting it back in the box I managed to catch the wires and pull several out. Hooking up the 120 side is easy what was giving me a fit was the 12V side and the relay.

The original problem was a failed cooling unit, diagnosed by hotwiring the heating elment wires, which I replaced with one of the amish built ones. As luck would have it, the pics I did take don't depict some views that I would like to have. I reconnected the LP yesterday and it has been running without an issue on that, just not getting as cold as I would like, but it has only been a bout 18 hours.

I spoke with a friend who is an RVer and electrician yesterday and based on that conversation, I have 120 at the fuse but nothing where the element plugs in, so I am beginning to think it is a bad board. I do have a new one now that I am going to plug in this afternoon.

Yes a lawyer for 37+ years, but retiring in 2 months. As far as razing me, my wife has been doing that quite well over this issue :(. We are leaving for a month next weekend and she is not a happy woman with me right now.

Thanks
Ron S

[dougrainer]

Ron, are you a lawyer:B I ask because of your Sig. Then I wonder WHY on a 3 year old Dometic you are trying to rewire something. The parts easily are replaced. Are you stating you did not mark or take pics of the back of the refer before you started swapping parts? The system is very simple, but I don't have a law degree:B Just 42 years as an RV tech and master certified for 25 years. So Yes, I am razing you, but I don't understand why you are replacing parts. What was the original problem? When the refer is on Auto, the priority is 120 volt. IF you have NO 120 volt to the control board or the Heat elements are bad(VERY RARE on newer refer) then the refer will do NOTHING. NO indication just no cooling. If you disconnect the 120 power cord on Auto, then the refer will switch to LP. OR you can select LP operation on the inside control panel. NORCOLD brand refers DID have a fault indication when there was a problem on 120. The CHECK light on a Dometic is just to let you know it failed to light on LP. Nothing else. Doug

[RonWSl]

Update: I have gotten this unit to cool quite well 2x -5 in the freezer and lower 30's in the box. Buttt, then it stops working on electric and wants to switch to propane which I haven't reconnected yet. I just replaced the fuse to be sure about that and it still won't run on electric. I have triple checked the wiring and think I have the 12v relay and board correct now but if not would that cause this problem? BTW, it also has new heating elements and I put in a snip-the-tip thermister. What am I missing? If I miswired the relay or the 12v side of the board would that cause it? Any help would be greatly appreciated as we are supposed to leave for a month next Friday.

BTW it is a RM1350SM, manual door locks/latches.

Thanks

[dougrainer]

Usually on a Dometic the switched is when you have the electric interior door lock system. The switched is wires to the Ignition switch and when the engine turned ON the refer doors lock. If you have a Trailer then the door lock is not installed or used on the 1350. Doug