Dometic DM2652 - No Power - Stumped - Everything Seems Fine

[needrvhelp]

Got a new horse trailer with LQ - has this fridge in it. Picked it up and it worked fine when I was at dealer. Drove 3 hours now no lights at all will come on, won't cool in AC or propane.

Checked 12V and there is 12V and 120V working fine. Checked continuity of all fuses on circuit board and main board of trailer. All fine.

I am completely stumped what could be wrong... Seems all the power and fuses are working fine.

Thanks for any help.

[mjdaspen3]

Thanks Drew. I actually had my gas tank valves closed because I had no intention of operating it on gas. It just attempted to switch to gas because I forgot to turn the fridge power switch off when I unplugged at the campground. Mine must be a different model than yours, or a different year, because my interior light will not come on unless the power switch is on for the fridge. Mine is a 2652. That little reset button was my entire problem, although it was ultimately caused by me not turning the fridge off.
Mike

[DrewE]

On my Dometic fridge, at least, the interior light will operate at any time the door is open, regardless of the fridge state--even if the fridge power switch is off, in fact. I added a second switch so I could leave the door ajar for storage without having the light on constantly (and without having to futz with taking the bulb out).

It doesn't sound like your problem, but one possible cause of failing to operate on gas that is sometimes easy to overlook is the little gas shut-off valve on the burner assembly--it looks like a smallish knurled thumbscrew. If the valve is off, the fridge obviously won't work on gas mode. If it's one that has had recall work done, you have to remove the outer sheet metal burner shield to get at this valve.

[mjdaspen3]

dougrainer wrote:
Look on the round burner casing. You will see a tstat looking snap disc. Some have a reset button you push in the center. Others you have to replace if tripped. You should have 12 volts on each side of the 2 wires. IF it is open, then no power to the refer, and YES, if run off level and the burner flue overheats, that will trip that safety disc. Doug

Doug, you are the man. I checked the disc and I had 12vdc in but nothing out. I pushed in the reset button and viola everything works. The thing that stumped me so much was that even the interior light stopped working, but I see now that it gets it's power once the on/off switch is turned on at the fridge panel, and I had no power at the panel. So in summary, I forgot to turn off the fridge when I took the trailer home from the RV park, and the gas was shut off. When I got home and plugged the trailer in, the auto light and the check light came on at some point, but I didn't realize what the check light was telling me. I thought it was a cooling problem from being parked un-level, but it was actually telling me the fridge lost power and the LP gas didn't ignite. Then both lights went out on the panel, and the interior light even stopped working. I was envisioning an expensive repair at an RV shop, but all I had to do is reset the stack t-stat. (mine has the reset button) My best advice to anyone with similar issues after this experience, is ask Doug.
Thanks again Doug, much appreciated. Mike

[dougrainer]

mjdaspen3 wrote:
Thanks Doug, I will check that. One thing I didn't mention is that the gas cylinders were shut off. Would that switch still overheat or would it just trip because of not lighting? Anyway I will check it today and let you know. Mike

You stated you had the refer ON, on 120 volt. Power Source makes no difference on level operation. The refer MUST be level when operating on any power source. It can overheat and ruin the refer on 120 also. Doug

[mjdaspen3]

Thanks Doug, I will check that. One thing I didn't mention is that the gas cylinders were shut off. Would that switch still overheat or would it just trip because of not lighting? Anyway I will check it today and let you know. Mike

[dougrainer]

mjdaspen3 wrote:
Hi folks. I realize this post is several months old, but I have a similar problem and I'm wondering if anyone can help. If the fridge goes into lockout, will the interior light stop working as well as the fridge itself?
I brought the trailer home from the park to prepare it for winter. I parked it on an angle so I could repair a drain pipe underneath, and I plugged the cord into the garage outlet to keep the fridge working. I noticed at one point the check light was on the fridge, but not knowing the check light was only to indicate the LP mode failed to ignite, I assumed it was on because the trailer was on an angle and couldn't cool properly. When I was done my repair I unplugged the trailer, parked in on a level surface and plugged it in. Now the fridge seems to have no power at all, not even the interior light works. The only things I have verified is there is 120vac at the plugin, and 13vdc at the terminal strip. Any ideas? Thanks

Look on the round burner casing. You will see a tstat looking snap disc. Some have a reset button you push in the center. Others you have to replace if tripped. You should have 12 volts on each side of the 2 wires. IF it is open, then no power to the refer, and YES, if run off level and the burner flue overheats, that will trip that safety disc. Doug

[mjdaspen3]

Hi folks. I realize this post is several months old, but I have a similar problem and I'm wondering if anyone can help. If the fridge goes into lockout, will the interior light stop working as well as the fridge itself?
I brought the trailer home from the park to prepare it for winter. I parked it on an angle so I could repair a drain pipe underneath, and I plugged the cord into the garage outlet to keep the fridge working. I noticed at one point the check light was on the fridge, but not knowing the check light was only to indicate the LP mode failed to ignite, I assumed it was on because the trailer was on an angle and couldn't cool properly. When I was done my repair I unplugged the trailer, parked in on a level surface and plugged it in. Now the fridge seems to have no power at all, not even the interior light works. The only things I have verified is there is 120vac at the plugin, and 13vdc at the terminal strip. Any ideas? Thanks

[Old-Biscuit]

dougrainer wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:
Chances are the fridge was left on auto and when electric was disconected tried to light but bottles were off so went into lockout. T

He stated NO indicator lights, so if no light on LP, the CHECK light would be on. Doug

Also stated had 12V DC at J4.

OP needs to check for DC going to Upper from Lower and at Upper

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I would wait until he posts an update.

[dougrainer]

newman fulltimer wrote:
Chances are the fridge was left on auto and when electric was disconected tried to light but bottles were off so went into lockout. T

He stated NO indicator lights, so if no light on LP, the CHECK light would be on. Doug

[newman_fulltime]

Chances are the fridge was left on auto and when electric was disconected tried to light but bottles were off so went into lockout. T

[louiskathy]

in the back of our fridge is a vent to the outside... open that vent from the outside (if you have one) and look for a small plastic black box. There's a little fuse in that box... check it.

[dougrainer]

LOOK at the Burner flue cover. You will see a small round Thermal Snap disc with 2 red wires going to it. IF that snap disc has failed, you will not have 12 volts to the control board of the refer. There should be 12 volt positive on BOTH wires at the snap disc. If one has 12 volts and the other does NOT, then the snap disc needs replaced. Doug

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Do not forget the negative side of the circuit. I have worked on some that have circuit board negative insulated from refrigerator chassis negative.