Dometic fridge not cooling on LP. Just LP.
The fridge/freezer works great on AC and DC. The freezer works great on LP. The fridge sucks on LP.. So this is only an issue on the LP side that just impacts the fridge. The burner unit was ...
Forum Discussion
Dan, the propane regulator I have currently is adjusted by turning the adjuster under the dust cap clockwise to increase the pressure, counterclockwise to decrease. Sometimes it’s marked on the regulator or the adjuster. You shouldn’t have to turn the adjuster very much at all to see a change in pressure. Having to turn the adjuster many turns, or finding that you’ve bottomed the adjuster is a sign that you need to replace the regulator.
There is a test port on the fridge LP valve just before the orifice where you are supposed to connect your manometer, so you should use that if at all possible. On my fridge, I can’t get that plug out for some reason, so I have to use one on the generator. Using the test port on the fridge would verify that the gas valve is opening like it should, and the LP line doesn’t have a blockage of some kind. Yes, the lines can get blocked with a thick, dark oily goo at times. You might need to check for that.
When I’ve removed the flue baffle to check or replace it, I’ve always run a 10 gauge shotgun brush up and down the flue to clean it as well. Since your baffle was replaced, can you verify that the correct one was used, and that it’s installed correctly? The baffle has to hang in the right spot inside the flue in order to concentrate the heat in the correct area. So if the new baffle is perhaps for a different model, there’s a chance the wire isn’t the right length for your fridge, or the flat twisted metal part isn’t the right diameter to fit your flue.
I’ve always just bought my parts from whatever parts dealer I can find on the interweb that can get me the parts quickly. Finding the part number used to be the hardest part, but many of the parts dealers now have very good parts breakdowns on their website. Once you find the part number, then you can even just go to Amazon and find the best deal that way. Seems like when I was looking for the orifice part number for my fridge, I noted that there are different sizes available. There’s the default size that is always on a new fridge, then there’s one or two other sizes for high-elevation use.
:):)
There is a test port on the fridge LP valve just before the orifice where you are supposed to connect your manometer, so you should use that if at all possible. On my fridge, I can’t get that plug out for some reason, so I have to use one on the generator. Using the test port on the fridge would verify that the gas valve is opening like it should, and the LP line doesn’t have a blockage of some kind. Yes, the lines can get blocked with a thick, dark oily goo at times. You might need to check for that.
When I’ve removed the flue baffle to check or replace it, I’ve always run a 10 gauge shotgun brush up and down the flue to clean it as well. Since your baffle was replaced, can you verify that the correct one was used, and that it’s installed correctly? The baffle has to hang in the right spot inside the flue in order to concentrate the heat in the correct area. So if the new baffle is perhaps for a different model, there’s a chance the wire isn’t the right length for your fridge, or the flat twisted metal part isn’t the right diameter to fit your flue.
I’ve always just bought my parts from whatever parts dealer I can find on the interweb that can get me the parts quickly. Finding the part number used to be the hardest part, but many of the parts dealers now have very good parts breakdowns on their website. Once you find the part number, then you can even just go to Amazon and find the best deal that way. Seems like when I was looking for the orifice part number for my fridge, I noted that there are different sizes available. There’s the default size that is always on a new fridge, then there’s one or two other sizes for high-elevation use.
:):)
