Dometic fridge RM2652 tripping thermal sensor

[rvman69]

Hello all, my Dometic RM2652 in my 99 Travelmaster class C RV was in my level shop hooked up and running good. I went out one day after we had a pretty bad storm and our electricity went off and back on about 5 times in a short period of time. Then it stayed off for about 36 hours. I noticed that our fridge power light was not on the fridge. So I turned the fridge off and reset the thermal switch on the heat unit. I went back in and turned fridge on. The power came on and the auto light was on. So I thought well the storm just threw the thermal sensor. So I turned the fridge off so I could clean it thinking it was fine. Well today I went out to turn the fridge on to get ready to go camping at the end of the month. When I turned it on the the lights came on the control panel as it should. It was on for a while then later I noticed the lights on the fridge were off. I went back to the thermal sensor and it was thrown again. I reset it again and it did the same thing. The heating element is getting hot. I do not think the cooling unit is bad but not positive. I do not see any yellow or green looking stuff around the heat unit. Is there anything else I should check that could be making the fridge not operate correctly? Could it be that the thermal sensor switch is just bad? Would appreciate any help. Is there a way to post pictures on here? I was going to post a couple so you could see there seems to be no yellow or green looking stuff. Thanks

[rvman69]

Here are the two pics. One of the old unit and one of the new unit. Notice the difference in the heating element tube. On the original one the tube goes all the way down to the bottom of flue tube. On the remanufactured one they welded the tube about inch or more higher. So I have the fridge all hooked back up but do not have any power up to the control board over the freezer. Well when I try to turn the fridge on with the button I get no red LED light to come on. The fridge interior light does work. So I am going to start a new thread on that issue I think. Thanks

[rvman69]

I got the fridge back in its place this evening. I waited until someone could come over and help me. I will get it all hooked up and test for propane leaks in the morning. Then I will test it on propane since I am still waiting on the heating element. I called a local RV place and they gave me the dometic heating element model number that I need. So I went ahead and ordered one of them so I will have a good one to go ahead and install. I will keep the others as backups. The reason the heating element sets higher is because when they weld on the new element pipe it is higher. I will try to post pics of both tomorrow evening.

[rvman69]

I went ahead and ordered a couple of the cheaper elements to get us started for the summer. If I can find one someone knows is a good quality element I will order it and change it out when I can. We will be taking our camper out to the camp ground at the end of the month. It will be out there for three months and we are not there through the week some. So I dont know if I trust the cheaper ones not going out on us when we are not there.

[rvman69]

I am pretty sure on this rebuild the tube the heating element goes into was replaced. It looks new inside that I can see. I am sure I could see some rust in It at bottom if not new. Maybe the tube is longer or welded on a little higher and that is why the heating element will not set in the exact place it did before.

[bigfootford]

At a quick glance at the heating element for 120vac avail for the dometic fridges they are all the same from what I can tell.
When I replaced my cooling unit I replaced my element. Fresh metal is great for heat transfer!
On a rebuilt CU you do not know how much rust and roughness is inside the element tube so replacement is always a good thing!

Jim.

[rvman69]

Here is everything I can read on the element
17376803
325W 120V
BPNBC028
06 09 2B

[rvman69]

Are all of the Dometic 325W 120V elements the same? Thanks

[rvman69]

Jim, thanks. But I think he is installing an Amish built new unit. The unit I got was a factory rebuild from the Amish. I am sure they replace that pipe as well as others. So maybe that pipe is longer. The element starts hitting at the curve before it gets low enough. So I will cut that part out if the new element is the same way. Any suggestions on a good heating element that wont break the bank? Anyone had any experience with the cheaper elements? If I need to spend more I will because I want it to be dependable. Kinda glad it broke. I should have went ahead and ordered one. But then I might have messed up the new one messing with it. I will go ahead and get everything else done and put it back in its spot. I can put the element in when I get it. Thanks

[bigfootford]

CITap1 talks about your fit issue!
Go to 44 min,

https://youtu.be/RhniGqckQzM

Jim.

[rvman69]

Got everything pretty much together. I am having an issue with the heating element going down far enough to line up where it should on the plate that goes around it. You can just see the heating element at the bottom of the tube. Is it possible the tube on this rebuilt unit is longer? Well messing with it so much I messed the heating element up and will have to replace it. If I get a new one and it does the same thing do I just cut that plate out where it falls? Thanks

[dougrainer]

rvman69 wrote:
Good morning all, I noticed that one of the 7 freezer screws is longer than the others. I know what hole it came out of and it has two washers on it instead of one like the others. Was this a mistake from the factory? Does it matter that the one screw is longer? Any fear of it hitting anything. Did they put the second washer on it because it would not tighten up all the way? Any thoughts? Thanks

They use the longer screw to PULL the CU to the freezer plate. Once you start the replacement, you will understand why one is longer. Without that longer screw, NONE of the other screws will be able to grab the CU plate. The longer one secures the plate to allow the shorter ones to grab. Doug

2 washers was a mistake from the factory, OR the CU has been replaced before and the installer had the same hesitation you had about the longer screw and figured they needed to put an extra washer.

[rvman69]

Good morning all, I noticed that one of the 7 freezer screws is longer than the others. I know what hole it came out of and it has two washers on it instead of one like the others. Was this a mistake from the factory? Does it matter that the one screw is longer? Any fear of it hitting anything. Did they put the second washer on it because it would not tighten up all the way? Any thoughts? Thanks

[rvman69]

Thanks everyone. I got everything removed and got the two striped screws out of the fins. I got everything cleaned up and ready to go. Then I was waiting on the cooling unit to get here. Well it got here about 5:50. I had something else I had to do tonight so I will put it back together tomorrow.

[dougrainer]

rvman69 wrote:
I got the old cooling unit out. Even though I got the plastic liner under the fins separated good it still ripped my liner on both sides some. I seen where once you get it back together you can put some RV caulking on it and it will be fine. Is this true? Also do I need to do anything where the double sided tape was on the fins? Thanks

You do not need to worry about the tape. IF you use the correct sealant when installing the new CU in the square hole, that will insulate for the cracked plastic. Yes, I would use a good silicone once installed on those cracks. Doug