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Warren_S's avatar
Warren_S
Explorer
May 09, 2020

Dometic Fridge Won't Turn Off/Shut Down

Hello,
I have a Dometic RM2652 Fridge that I operate on propane using 12V only in an off-grid location. Fridge works great but it won't shut down even when all the switches on the FridgeTop control panel are off. As a result the food freezes in the fridge. I have to pull the fuse to stop the propane from firing and shut the fridge down. I've tried replacing the thermister located in the fridge interior but that didn't help. Any suggestions or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

-Warren
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    As far as I know the upper board (Eyebrow) is just indicators and selectors does not do any temp control.

    Find the Thermsistor leads on the Dino board. Disconnect them and use a Multi Meter to measure the resistance.. Sadly I can not tell you what is the proper range .. but Dinosaur boards can.
  • Thanks Everyone. Some good troubleshooting suggestions in there. I replaced the control board last summer with a Dinosaur board to get the the fridge running initially. It's possible that it's defective. I'm pretty sure the thermister is good but I can troubleshoot it in some ice water. Does none of the on-off/thermostatic control come from the upper circuit board then?
  • Probably the power module board (aka:control board)... My brand new 2019 Rockwood has the same Dometic 2652 fridge. I didn't have the same exact issue as you however. Mine would run fine on gas or 120v, but once it cycled, it would SHUT DOWN and not turn back on and the "check" light would come on..

    But, the catch was, and took me some troubleshooting to figure out, it only did this while plugged into shore power... If it was running on just battery and gas, it would cycle just fine.. I even unplugged the 120v plug to the fridge, and it would still not start on gas if plugged into shore power...

    I was just about to take it back to the dealer and I figured that out and then searched around and found that this was likely the power module...

    Found it on Amazon for under $100 and ordered it.. It came in two days (Prime) and I installed it in about an hour or so. Tight quarters, and little tiny wires, but just matched them up to the original one and it was a perfect match and BINGO! Fridge cycles perfect while plugged into shore power on gas or 120v and also while just on 12v and gas.. :)

    Sure, it would have been covered by the warranty.. But, I would have had to take the trailer to the dealer. They would have had to troubleshoot themselves, then order the same thing I just did and install. Pick it up, park it back at my house.... Ughh... Probably would have taken a week or longer... In the end, not worth the $100 and some and hour or so of my time..

    Plus, I get the satisfaction of fixing yet another thing on my own and it worked out great.

    Here is the link to what I got on Amazon.

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BURPLEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Good luck! Mitch
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    There are basically only a few parts involved in shutting it down.
    First the control board
    Then the thermisistor
    Then then the solenoid

    You said the pulling the fuse shuts it down
    This eliminates the solenoid
    You replaced the thermister Assuming the new one was good. is properly attached to the fins and is properly installed (Meaning the control board can "See" it) that leaves the control board. Only thing left.

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