โNov-01-2006 05:30 PM
โApr-24-2008 06:49 PM
โApr-23-2008 09:55 PM
โApr-23-2008 01:53 PM
โMar-07-2008 04:29 PM
Chris Bryant wrote:
Just curious- what are the first 3 digits of the serial number (and entire model number)?
The reason I ask is that the Dometic serial numbers use the first three digits for the date- 1st digit is year, second 2 are week.
The RM2652 has just passed 10 years of manufacture, but they changed the model to DM2652 to avoid S/N mixups.
โMar-07-2008 10:24 AM
โMar-07-2008 10:17 AM
โFeb-18-2008 05:19 PM
โFeb-18-2008 10:29 AM
โFeb-18-2008 09:35 AM
โFeb-17-2008 09:25 PM
โFeb-13-2008 08:48 AM
โFeb-13-2008 12:47 AM
timsrv wrote:
Keep in mind calculating heating element watts in the manner you did (using resistance only) is not the most accurate method (your estimated watts will always be on the high side). It's totally understandable as I initially made this same mistake myself before giving it some more thought. Anyhow, here is a better and more thorough explanation I posted earlier in this thread. Read on. Timtimsrv wrote:
Okay, Okay, I'm making some major headway here and had to share it with you all. Please understand It's been a while since my college electrical / electronics training, so this took some thought to get back into the swing of things. I started remembering there are more ways to check watts:h. Although testing resistance is the easiest way, it's not the most accurate way.......especially on something that gets hot. Once you energize an element, the heat changes resistance, therefore changing the calculated watts. Checking in this manner is only going to be approximate and always on the high side (more heat = more resistance).
As I just said, there is more than one way to calculate the watts of a load (3 to be exact). Method 1.= Volts squared divided by Resistance = Watts. Method 2.= Amps squared X Resistance = Watts. Method 3. (and the most accurate in this case) Volts X Amps = Watts
Due to the fluctuation in resistance caused by heat, the best way to determine Watts in an element is to eliminate resistance from the equation.
Okay, now for the good stuff. I energized an element and measured Amps by routing current through my Fluke. When cold the current was slightly higher so I waited for element to heat and stabilize. Once there I measured 2.63 Amps. Using method 3 to calculate (Volts X Amps) this works out to 315 Watts:W.
On a side note, remember the old style element I tested? Remember the hot spot at the bottom (right adjacent to the cracked weld)? Well, looks like they did something about that too. Check out the nice even heat of this new element!
Okay, so I'll have to take back some of my bad thoughts of Dometic (but not all;)). This makes me feel a whole lot better and should go a long way to solving the problem with these refers. I still think they should be replacing elements as part of the recall, but that's another subject. Would also be nice if they put a little more effort into explaining things, but I think we do a pretty good job figuring them out here. Just takes a bit longer to get to the bottom of things. Tim
โFeb-12-2008 08:41 PM
timsrv wrote:
Okay, Okay, I'm making some major headway here and had to share it with you all. Please understand It's been a while since my college electrical / electronics training, so this took some thought to get back into the swing of things. I started remembering there are more ways to check watts:h. Although testing resistance is the easiest way, it's not the most accurate way.......especially on something that gets hot. Once you energize an element, the heat changes resistance, therefore changing the calculated watts. Checking in this manner is only going to be approximate and always on the high side (more heat = more resistance).
As I just said, there is more than one way to calculate the watts of a load (3 to be exact). Method 1.= Volts squared divided by Resistance = Watts. Method 2.= Amps squared X Resistance = Watts. Method 3. (and the most accurate in this case) Volts X Amps = Watts
Due to the fluctuation in resistance caused by heat, the best way to determine Watts in an element is to eliminate resistance from the equation.
Okay, now for the good stuff. I energized an element and measured Amps by routing current through my Fluke. When cold the current was slightly higher so I waited for element to heat and stabilize. Once there I measured 2.63 Amps. Using method 3 to calculate (Volts X Amps) this works out to 315 Watts:W.
On a side note, remember the old style element I tested? Remember the hot spot at the bottom (right adjacent to the cracked weld)? Well, looks like they did something about that too. Check out the nice even heat of this new element!
Okay, so I'll have to take back some of my bad thoughts of Dometic (but not all;)). This makes me feel a whole lot better and should go a long way to solving the problem with these refers. I still think they should be replacing elements as part of the recall, but that's another subject. Would also be nice if they put a little more effort into explaining things, but I think we do a pretty good job figuring them out here. Just takes a bit longer to get to the bottom of things. Tim
โFeb-12-2008 07:49 PM
WilleyB wrote:
Hi trouble1263, and thank you for your kind thought.
For those members who would like to do the transformer fix :W I'll try to clean up my drawing and terminology. As LScamper has suggested an autotransformer is an expensive item indeed. What is proposed here is a method to compensate for, by lowering the wattage of an underrated 120 volt element. Namely those heating elements with a resistance below 40 ohms.
What is proposed is a Radio Shack #: 273-1511 or Circuit City #: 2731511 Transformer
Transformer: primary is 120 VAC, HD type. Volts: 12.6V CT. 3.0A. in either case the price is about $10. The 120 volt PRIMARY winding has two black wires that are smaller in diameter than the three wires of the 12.6 volt SECONDARY winding. The CT in the "12,6 CT" stands for "Center Tap" meaning that the 12.6 volt winding is equally divided. There are two yellow wires which are the 12.6 volt leads with a black lead from the Center Tap and from the black lead to either yellow lead we would measure 6.3 volts while in operation.
Click-->
The connections:
Connect one wire of the fridge 120v element to a transformer Primary wire as shown (like Red wire shown) and to one side of the 120 volt line (AC black wire). The other element wire will be connect to the other transformer Primary wire. Then connect the white 120v AC supply (from the control board where the element is connected to now) wire to the black Center Tap wire of the Secondary winding. Then connect one of the 12.6 volt secondary wires (yellow A or B) to the point marked "C" as shown on the diagram. These connections make the transformer operate like a step down transformer in that now there are many more windings across the 120 volts, by using only the primary leads as an output the voltage will be reduced to about 113.7 volts. (120 - 6.3= 113.7) If you have less you can connect point "C" to the opposite side of the secondary.
Unused leads should be taped (insulated as voltage will be present) In operation the Transformer will be warm to the touch, but it should not real hot. I anyone wishes to do this instead of replacing the heating element and wishes to ask questions " go for it " if can help I'll be glad to.
Willis
My thanks to LScamper for pointing out my omission that the 120V for the circuit comes from the circuit board and not directly from the line voltage ๐ฎ
โJan-18-2008 06:23 PM
Maybe someone at Dometic rolled the dice while choosing the manufacture date cut-offs?I agree, where I work everything is done by accident!!