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Dometic Refer Recall - Possible Fire Hazard -Update 2/13/07

MELM
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Click here to go directly to Updates.
Update Number 1 Nov 23, 2006
Update Number 2 Dec 5, 2006
Update Number 3 Jan 10, 2007
Update Number 4 Jan 19, 2007 - Recall Instructions - click here: Dometic Recall You need your model and serial numbers.
Update Number 5 Feb 13, 2007 - Added links to new info on the NHTSA website including the info/form for claiming reimbursement for a failure. These are at the end of the post below where all the updates are posted.

Also, edited the below Recall to include the change made prior to the Dec 5 update showing the proposed remedy.

Below is information from the NHTSA website on a recall of certain Dometic refrigerators. This recall is in its very early stages, and there is no resolution in place as of Nov 1, 2006.

From the NHTSA website:

Dometic Recall NHTSA Campaign ID 06E076000

Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
DOMETIC / NDR1062 9999
DOMETIC / RM2652 9999
DOMETIC / RM2662 9999
DOMETIC / RM2663 9999
DOMETIC / RM2852 9999
DOMETIC / RM2862 9999
DOMETIC / RM3662 9999
DOMETIC / RM3663 9999
DOMETIC / RM3862 9999
DOMETIC / RM3863 9999

Manufacturer : DOMETIC CORPORATION

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 06E076000 Mfg's Report Date : AUG 28, 2006

Component: EQUIPMENT: RECREATIONAL VEHICLE

Potential Number Of Units Affected : 926877

Summary:
CERTAIN DOMETIC TWO-DOOR REFRIGERATORS MANUFACTURED BETWEEN APRIL 1997 AND MAY 2003: SERIAL NOS.
713XXXXX THROUGH 752XXXXX;
801XXXXX THROUGH 852XXXXX;
901XXXXX THROUGH 952XXXXX;
001XXXXX THROUGH 052XXXXX;
101XXXXX THROUGH 152XXXXX;
201XXXXX THROUGH 252XXXXX;
301XXXXX THROUGH 319XXXXX,
INSTALLED IN CERTAIN RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND SOLD AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT. A FATIGUE CRACK MAY DEVELOP IN THE BOILER TUBE WHICH MAY RELEASE A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF PRESSURIZED COOLANT SOLUTION INTO AN AREA WHERE AN IGNITION SOURCE (GAS FLAME) IS PRESENT.

Consequence:
THE RELEASE OF COOLANT UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS COULD IGNITE AND RESULT IN A FIRE.

Remedy:
THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF RECREATIONAL VEHICLES THAT HAD THE REFRIGERATORS INSTALLED AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND DOMETIC WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF THE AFTERMARKET REFRIGERATORS. DOMETIC WILL INSTALL A SECONDARY BURNER HOUSING FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN BETWEEN APRIL AND JUNE 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DOMETIC AT 888-446-5157.

Notes:
CUSTOMERS MAY CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

The following is extracted from the notice provided by Dometic to the NHTSA dated 8/26/06:

The potential defect is associated with cooling unit at the back of the refrigeration cabinet.

A fractional percentage of the potentially affected refrigerators have experienced a fatigue crack that may develop in the boiler tube in the area of the weld between the boiler tube and the heater pocket. A fatigue crack may release a sufficient amount of pressurized coolant solution into an area where an ignition source (gas flame) is present. Dometic's investigation has shown that a simulated release of cooling solution (refrigerant) in the area of the boiler, under certain conditions, could be ignited by the presence of an open flame. A boiler fatigue crack with the loss of cooling solution without ignition would result in a non-operational refrigerator that is not a safety issue. Under certain conditions, the released coolant could ignite and result in a fire. In order to have a fire, at a minimum, all of the following conditions must exist:

    1. The refrigerator must be on and normally operating and gas burner must be lit;
    2. 'There must be an oversized heating element in the refrigerator;
    3. The boiler tube must develop a throughway fatigue crack of a
    specific size;
    4. There must be a release of the cooling solution at a rate which will
    allow the accumulation of the cooling solution at a concentration within its range of flammability; and
    5. There must be ignition source (gas flame) present.

If any of these conditions are not present, a release of the cooling solution will not result in a fire.

In April of 1997 Dometic modified the design of the affected refrigerators by increasing the wattage of the heating element from 325 watts to 354 watts. All production of the affected units from April 1997 through May of 2003 utilized the 354 watt heating element. In May of 2003, in order to improve the operating life of the refrigerators, Dometic returned to the use of the 325 watt heating element which it continues to use today. It is now believed that the use of the higher wattage heater contributed to abnormal fatigue in the boiler tube.

The products in question are all refrigerators used in the original manufacture of recreation vehicles or as replacement equipment for recreation vehicles. The total population of refrigerators potentially containing the defect is 926,877. Dometic estimates a potential maximum incident rate of 0.01% related to boiler fatigue cracks that leak and may result in a fire. There have been no incidents of injury or death related to the affected population of Dometic refrigerators.

Dometic became aware of the occurrence of fires which may have involved their products and retained an independent engineering testing laboratory to fully evaluate and investigate any potential defect in their refrigerators which might result in a fire. A number of returned units were analyzed and microscopic fatigue cracks which could release coolant into the area of the burner were identified in the boiler tube metal in the area of the weld between the heater pocket and boiler tube. Tests simulating the cracks were conducted the week of August 18, 2006 and confirmed a possible cause of fire in the refrigerators under certain conditions. These test results prompted the preparation of this notice.

Dometic continues to gather information on the potential defect and will forward additional relevant information as it becomes available.

Dometic has not yet identified a proposed remedy for the potential defect. Dometic will continue a testing program designed to identify and evaluate possible remedies. This evaluation will take place both in the United States and in Sweden. Once a remedy has been identified, Dometic will initiate or participate in a remedy campaign initiated by the original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers who have purchased, sold, and distributed these products. A list of original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers to whom Dometic has sold the potentially defective refrigerators is being prepared and will be provided to the NHTSA upon its
completion.

The following is extracted from the NHTSA response on 9/18/06:

Please provide the following additional information and be reminded of the following requirements:
    Dometic must provide an estimated dealer notification date as well as an owner notification date including the day, month, and year. You are required to submit a draft owner notification letter to this office no less than five days prior to mailing it to the customers. Also, copies of all notices, bulletins, dealer notifications, and other communications that relate to this recall, including a copy of the final owner notification letter and any subsequent owner follow-up notification letter(s), are required to be submitted to this office no later than 5 days after they are originally sent (if they are sent to more than one manufacturer, distributor, dealer, or purchaser/owner).

    Dometic must file a sample of the envelope which you intend to use to mail the recall notice to owners. The words "SAFETY", "RECALL", "NOTICE" in any order must be printed on the envelope in larger font than the customers name and address.
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franky14
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Well, since this posted started many months/years ago, I looked and noticed that my fridge was not on the original list. I have a 1996 Tioga and the model number and serial number were not on the list. For some reason I checked today and it has now been added. I called Domatic and they astated they have added new model and serial numbers so if your number was not original one of the ones it may be worth the phone call to recheck. Mine is getting the kit placed on it next week! I am glad I rechecked!

w6pea
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Here we go again.
maybe I better look at mine and see why I have been having trouble getting it to light.
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dtyrrell
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Hi all,
I own a Ford GBH Landau with the effective unit in question and would like to use the transformer method, as I'm getting the cold shoulder from Dometic.......
The other problem is I live in the UK.
I can not get the transformer model / type in the UK, can any help me in sourcing the unit and posting to the UK?

Regards
Dorian

timsrv
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Explorer
Chris Bryant wrote:
Just curious- what are the first 3 digits of the serial number (and entire model number)?
The reason I ask is that the Dometic serial numbers use the first three digits for the date- 1st digit is year, second 2 are week.
The RM2652 has just passed 10 years of manufacture, but they changed the model to DM2652 to avoid S/N mixups.


This true, However I believe some of the refers made early in 2007 still had the RM numbers and duplicate S/N of some of the 1st effected by the recall. I could be wrong about this, but I seem to remember seeing one or two that actually showed up as being effected (even though they were manufactured 4 years after the last recall refers). Needless to say, it was a bit confusing. The thing that made me disregard was that I seriously doubted they would put a 10 year old refer in a brand new coach. Tim

Chris_Bryant
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Explorer II
Just curious- what are the first 3 digits of the serial number (and entire model number)?
The reason I ask is that the Dometic serial numbers use the first three digits for the date- 1st digit is year, second 2 are week.
The RM2652 has just passed 10 years of manufacture, but they changed the model to DM2652 to avoid S/N mixups.
-- Chris Bryant

NCStutz
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Explorer
Howdy Folks,

I did not get a notification, but y buddy at work told me about the recall. I went to the Dometic website to check. My fridge was manufactured in 2007 - 4 years after the "affected" manufacturing run. But my serial number still came up a winner. When I called Dometic they sent me a notification letter and told me better safe than sorry.

I guess the point of my ramblings is that 1) even if you don't think you are affected, it might be worth a second look, and 2) I am sorry to say, I ain't really got a warm fuzzy about the technical support department at Dometic.

Although, the person I talked to was friendly and professional, and apologetic.

timsrv
Explorer
Explorer
Yeah, this refer showed below was used only on electric. It is an extreme case (the worst I've seen anyhow), but it shows the potential hazard one could encounter. When I arrived at this job site, the sheet metal around the boiler was glowing red hot!

Like Chris said, the recall includes a thermal cut-off (see the last picture). This would have prevented the overheating and potential fire hazard as seen it the 1st 3 pictures.

Note: Thermal cut-off photo courtesy of bigdodgeram. Tim







Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
It will work fine without LP gas, but you should still have the recall done- Tim has posted some pictures of units over heating running just on Electric- the recall adds a thermal fuse to keep this from happening.
-- Chris Bryant

bigdodgeram
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Explorer
I have a question on the propane to the refer. what if I do not use the propane. can I disconnect the propane and still use the refer? I only use the electric anyway. will the refer still have the recall problem?
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dezl_dr
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A fluke 87 meter must be the standard for a lot of differant fields.
2014 F-350 DRW, 2010 Elite Suites 38'

timsrv
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Explorer


Okay, this thread is hopelessly long, so I figured few would read it all. Kudos to you for your patience;). As for which element to run, I think moving the hot spot away from the place where the boiler cracks, and then evenly distributing the heat to the rest of the pocket would be more important than total watts. I also believe this was Dometic's reasoning in redesigning these elements. If you look at the picture above, you can see the heated portion of the element does not extend all the way to the bottom like it did before.

As for why they didn't replace the elements as part of the recall.......who knows? Perhaps Dometic is more concerned about liability and maybe isn't too terribly concerned about the longevity of the existing refers (just a guess) -OR- Perhaps they figured the stress patterns were already set, and changing the elements now wouldn't matter (just more speculation). Regardless of their reasoning on the older units, I'd be willing to bet they're concerned about the longevity of the new refers they're manufacturing now.

For those of us with the older refers (with original elements), it may be too late to reverse the existing stress patterns, but I'd still feel much better knowing I had the latest element (I'd consider the $40 cheap insurance). BTW, I stock about 10 or more of these elements and try to sell one to almost every customer I run into with a recall refer. Needless to say, I sell a lot of them. Tim

cougar88nw
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Explorer
I did read this post before making the decision to install the transformer. My line voltage was 120 volts before installing the transformer which (Volts X Amps = Watts) would give me 348 Watts. Now that the voltage applied to the heater is 113volts I have 327 watts. Since the performance of the refrigerator hasn't changed I feel it was worth ten dollars to lower the heat applied to the poorly manufactured cooling unit.

Do you recommend the replacement of the heating element because of the hot spots you found on the older element? Thanks again for the info.

Mark W.



timsrv wrote:
Keep in mind calculating heating element watts in the manner you did (using resistance only) is not the most accurate method (your estimated watts will always be on the high side). It's totally understandable as I initially made this same mistake myself before giving it some more thought. Anyhow, here is a better and more thorough explanation I posted earlier in this thread. Read on. Tim

timsrv wrote:
Okay, Okay, I'm making some major headway here and had to share it with you all. Please understand It's been a while since my college electrical / electronics training, so this took some thought to get back into the swing of things. I started remembering there are more ways to check watts:h. Although testing resistance is the easiest way, it's not the most accurate way.......especially on something that gets hot. Once you energize an element, the heat changes resistance, therefore changing the calculated watts. Checking in this manner is only going to be approximate and always on the high side (more heat = more resistance).

As I just said, there is more than one way to calculate the watts of a load (3 to be exact). Method 1.= Volts squared divided by Resistance = Watts. Method 2.= Amps squared X Resistance = Watts. Method 3. (and the most accurate in this case) Volts X Amps = Watts

Due to the fluctuation in resistance caused by heat, the best way to determine Watts in an element is to eliminate resistance from the equation.

Okay, now for the good stuff. I energized an element and measured Amps by routing current through my Fluke. When cold the current was slightly higher so I waited for element to heat and stabilize. Once there I measured 2.63 Amps. Using method 3 to calculate (Volts X Amps) this works out to 315 Watts:W.





On a side note, remember the old style element I tested? Remember the hot spot at the bottom (right adjacent to the cracked weld)? Well, looks like they did something about that too. Check out the nice even heat of this new element!



Okay, so I'll have to take back some of my bad thoughts of Dometic (but not all;)). This makes me feel a whole lot better and should go a long way to solving the problem with these refers. I still think they should be replacing elements as part of the recall, but that's another subject. Would also be nice if they put a little more effort into explaining things, but I think we do a pretty good job figuring them out here. Just takes a bit longer to get to the bottom of things. Tim
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timsrv
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Keep in mind calculating heating element watts in the manner you did (using resistance only) is not the most accurate method (your estimated watts will always be on the high side). It's totally understandable as I initially made this same mistake myself before giving it some more thought. Anyhow, here is a better and more thorough explanation I posted earlier in this thread. Read on. Tim

timsrv wrote:
Okay, Okay, I'm making some major headway here and had to share it with you all. Please understand It's been a while since my college electrical / electronics training, so this took some thought to get back into the swing of things. I started remembering there are more ways to check watts:h. Although testing resistance is the easiest way, it's not the most accurate way.......especially on something that gets hot. Once you energize an element, the heat changes resistance, therefore changing the calculated watts. Checking in this manner is only going to be approximate and always on the high side (more heat = more resistance).

As I just said, there is more than one way to calculate the watts of a load (3 to be exact). Method 1.= Volts squared divided by Resistance = Watts. Method 2.= Amps squared X Resistance = Watts. Method 3. (and the most accurate in this case) Volts X Amps = Watts

Due to the fluctuation in resistance caused by heat, the best way to determine Watts in an element is to eliminate resistance from the equation.

Okay, now for the good stuff. I energized an element and measured Amps by routing current through my Fluke. When cold the current was slightly higher so I waited for element to heat and stabilize. Once there I measured 2.63 Amps. Using method 3 to calculate (Volts X Amps) this works out to 315 Watts:W.





On a side note, remember the old style element I tested? Remember the hot spot at the bottom (right adjacent to the cracked weld)? Well, looks like they did something about that too. Check out the nice even heat of this new element!



Okay, so I'll have to take back some of my bad thoughts of Dometic (but not all;)). This makes me feel a whole lot better and should go a long way to solving the problem with these refers. I still think they should be replacing elements as part of the recall, but that's another subject. Would also be nice if they put a little more effort into explaining things, but I think we do a pretty good job figuring them out here. Just takes a bit longer to get to the bottom of things. Tim

cougar88nw
Explorer
Explorer
After reading all of the post on the "Dometic Recall" I decided to try installing a transformer (per the post below) to lower the voltage going to the heating element. I wanted to replace the element but the local RV dealer only stocked the new part# from Dometic and I didn't trust it considering the stock element was stamped 325watts and had 38.9 ohms resistance. I called RV Mobile this morning and ordered a new element and asked the salesman to check the resistance before completing the order. I got a call 30 minutes later from RV Mobile to let me know that they had just received a new shipment of elements and the wire color had been changed and the resistance on all were 39-41 ohms so I cancelled the order. I feel that the metal used in the cooling system is at fault but I also think that the heating element that is over powered only aggravates the defect in the welds. I installed the transformer (got it @ radio shack) today and it worked great. I also switched the position of the heating element to the 12 volt side of the tube. My element has 38.9 ohms resistance and the refrigerator runs on LP or 115-120 volts & 2.9 amps. After installing the transformer the voltage applied to the heating element was 113 volts almost a 7 volt drop! Volts squared divided by resistance = watts so I was running @370:E watts and after the transformer install I am @ 328 watts. The transformer cost $10.00 and was easy to install. The new elements can run you 30.00-70.00 dollars + shipping. The refrigerator still cools great. Thanks to all of the people that took time post on this very important issue. ๐Ÿ™‚

Mark W.




WilleyB wrote:
Hi trouble1263, and thank you for your kind thought.

For those members who would like to do the transformer fix :W I'll try to clean up my drawing and terminology. As LScamper has suggested an autotransformer is an expensive item indeed. What is proposed here is a method to compensate for, by lowering the wattage of an underrated 120 volt element. Namely those heating elements with a resistance below 40 ohms.
What is proposed is a Radio Shack #: 273-1511 or Circuit City #: 2731511 Transformer
Transformer: primary is 120 VAC, HD type. Volts: 12.6V CT. 3.0A. in either case the price is about $10. The 120 volt PRIMARY winding has two black wires that are smaller in diameter than the three wires of the 12.6 volt SECONDARY winding. The CT in the "12,6 CT" stands for "Center Tap" meaning that the 12.6 volt winding is equally divided. There are two yellow wires which are the 12.6 volt leads with a black lead from the Center Tap and from the black lead to either yellow lead we would measure 6.3 volts while in operation.
Click-->

The connections:
Connect one wire of the fridge 120v element to a transformer Primary wire as shown (like Red wire shown) and to one side of the 120 volt line (AC black wire). The other element wire will be connect to the other transformer Primary wire. Then connect the white 120v AC supply (from the control board where the element is connected to now) wire to the black Center Tap wire of the Secondary winding. Then connect one of the 12.6 volt secondary wires (yellow A or B) to the point marked "C" as shown on the diagram. These connections make the transformer operate like a step down transformer in that now there are many more windings across the 120 volts, by using only the primary leads as an output the voltage will be reduced to about 113.7 volts. (120 - 6.3= 113.7) If you have less you can connect point "C" to the opposite side of the secondary.
Unused leads should be taped (insulated as voltage will be present) In operation the Transformer will be warm to the touch, but it should not real hot. I anyone wishes to do this instead of replacing the heating element and wishes to ask questions " go for it " if can help I'll be glad to.
Willis

My thanks to LScamper for pointing out my omission that the 120V for the circuit comes from the circuit board and not directly from the line voltage ๐Ÿ˜ฎ
Pilot---Mark :C, Co Pilot (boss)Nancy:R
Children:
Alyssa :?, Corey :p, Matthew:h, Kaylyn :B

Dogs: Shih-Tzu's(other children)
Max , Shelby, Twiggles

TT 2001 Sunnybrook 2708 SLE
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Grillmeister
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Maybe someone at Dometic rolled the dice while choosing the manufacture date cut-offs?

I agree, where I work everything is done by accident!!
Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!!