Electric Brake Issues on TT

[lotto38]

I have a wheel on my TT that seems to be getting more "Juice" than the other three. I have my prodigy gain set at 6 and the boost at 1.(Same problem if no boost) In a short drive, the wheel will heat up more than the other three.It sometimes gets hot to the touch. I jacked it up and the wheel spins without any resistance. I have had two shops look at the wheel and they both say everything is OK. I am wondering if they check the voltage in each wheel. I don't believe that the Prodigy is to blame, because there is only one wire going to the plug. On gravel with the boost, the wheel will lock up.
Thanks.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Drum brakes. SERVO the entire brake shoe assembly by hand to see if it "twists" easier than the other brakes. Sometimes it's lack of lube tween the shoe pads and backing plates - other times it may be a great disparity in shoe to plate amount of spring tension. All sets of brakes should swivel (servo) with the same amount of hand applied rotational force

Hope This Helps

[jodeb720]

or it's possible that the one wheel that's heating up is getting the proper voltage and the connection to the other three isn't a good one - and they are not getting the same voltage

[down_home]

On our Fifth Wheel I checked the wiring several times. I found wires to right side damaged and no braking going on once and just like things to be perfect, I made sure all the connections were not corroded, tight and covered with dielectric compound and a sleeve. I thought about replacing the wires as I thought they were marginal in size but didn't.
Had one wheel with magnet bad. I adjusted them before every long trip, a pain but I was skinnier and younger. Changing them to stainless rotors with no lube bearing assemblies would solve all that, but like me, by the time I got it done I would trade it.

[Chris_Bryant]

It's typical for the front drivers side to have more power- the brake line usually goes to that wheel, then the curb side front axle and rear axle splits off that, the rear curb side has the worst- simply more connections to go through, plus the connections are often junk- blue or white scotch locks.

[Dave_H_M]

Well lotto, here is a dumb answer.

How do you know what is going on inside that drum if it has not been yanked back off and checked out? For me it would be just that easy.

[lotto38]

newman fulltimer wrote:

Rvpapa wrote:
Or maybe it is the only wheel actually doing all the brakeing.
Art

He will respond with " shop adjusted correctly :S

I was hoping for a smart answer. I guess you had one.

[hornet28]

Could also be a problem with that magnet. try cleaning it and see if it makes a difference. I have experienced that.

[lotto38]

Kayteg1 wrote:
You can't have 1 wheel getting more voltage period.
It has to be mechanical problem, unless as suggested you have only this wheel hooked up to the electrical.
I would take the trailer on low traffic road, drive for few miles without touching the brakes, than stop using E brake and check the wheel temperature.

Only failed when the brakes are used. Straight driving is OK

[lotto38]

Yep, power to other wheels

[time2roll]

Clamp-on DC ammeter should show about 3 amps per wheel.
Any excuse for a new tool 😉

[Kayteg1]

You can't have 1 wheel getting more voltage period.
It has to be mechanical problem, unless as suggested you have only this wheel hooked up to the electrical.
I would take the trailer on low traffic road, drive for few miles without touching the brakes, than stop using E brake and check the wheel temperature.

[newman_fulltime]

Rvpapa wrote:
Or maybe it is the only wheel actually doing all the brakeing.
Art

He will respond with " shop adjusted correctly :S

[Boon_Docker]

Rvpapa wrote:
Or maybe it is the only wheel actually doing all the brakeing.
Art

Bingo!

[newman_fulltime]

3 bearing sets replaced why not do all of them so theres your problem bad bearings