Electrical Diagram help

[bmcneil99]

I found this forum through a google image search for RV electrical diagrams. Come to find out from this forum the diagram I have been following is incorrect. I recently purchased an older solid running good condition dodge class C motor home. The interior needed help and the electrical equipment was all pulled by the previous owner. I have done quite a bit of research and I hoping someone can direct me toward a reliable electrical diagram. The equipment I have purchased: Power max- converter/ charger, power max transfer switch, a good size 12v - 110/120v inverter, as well as 4 AGM 12v house batteries. Thanks for the help in advance!

[time2roll]

120VAC is Hot, Neutral, Ground. Yes the ground and 12v- are both connected to the frame. These should be independent connections. You don't really connect the battery negative direct to the 120v ground bus. And you do not use the 120VAC ground bus as the 12v- bus. While technically they are connected, the two systems are assembled with separate bus for each.

[Chris_Bryant]

bmcneil99 wrote:
Is it OK to connect 12V and 110V negatives to the same bus? Also on the 12V fuse panel, should the main negative be connected to the negative bus or the green/bare ground bus?

Thank you

12 volt and 120 volt *ground* is the same, 120 volt neutral *must* be isolated.

[bmcneil99]

Is it OK to connect 12V and 110V negatives to the same bus? Also on the 12V fuse panel, should the main negative be connected to the negative bus or the green/bare ground bus?

Thank you

[time2roll]

Breaker box should have instructions maybe even a diagram.

Otherwise black goes to the breaker, white to the neutral bus, green or bare grounds to the ground bus. No neutral-ground bond in the RV. Ground also connects to frame along with battery negative.

stack of 12v fuses provide the positive for 12v accessories. Typically all negatives come together on a bus with a single connection to the converter negative. Negative bus also connects to frame.

[bmcneil99]

Agreed, It would help if +/- was shown as well as ground and a breakdown of the breaker box.

[time2roll]

http://livinginmycar.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/draft-of-my-rv-electrical-system.jpg

Lacking details but it is fine for illustration

[bmcneil99]

This is what I was using as a guide of sorts, but after seeing it on another thread on this forum I read that it was incorrect...

http://livinginmycar.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/draft-of-my-rv-electrical-system.jpg

[Joe417]

If you don't find a diagram of your RV, I have a schematic I drew of my TC that would give you an idea of how an Arctic Fox is wired. It doesn't have an inverter, but has all the normal items.

It's in Microsoft visio but I'd guess most other drawing programs will have a converter so you could pull it up on the screen and/or print. It's 6 pages.

PM me if interested.

[wolfe10]

It is EXTREMELY unlikely that the electrical equipment you have was OE, so a wiring diagram for how it was built will not do you much good.

But, a very good start would be to search on-line for the owners/installation manuals on each of the pieces of equipment you mentioned. Together, they will give you a good idea of how to wire them.

There are also some basic primers on coach wiring what would be of assistance.

[time2roll]

Depends on how you plan to wire what. All the diagrams are good but will depict too much of something and miss other parts.

I assume you want to power the whole panel with the inverter. Transfer switch has two inputs. For you, inverter and utility power cord. Output goes to the main breaker panel.

You will need the converter connected to a separate breaker to shut it off while inverting. Fridge could go on this breaker also.

Connect the inverter 12v, converter output and the chassis isolator to the four AGM and you are in business. Add 120v and 12v connections as needed.

I assume you have some experience or you should get help.

[westend]

You may get a diagram through the Mfg of your RV but doubtful. Your upgraded 12V system shouldn't need a diagram, though. I'd suggest to install everything as if a new installation. The money spent for extra wire will be offset by the removal of aggravation trying to splice back into the older wiring.
The only two interfaces with the existing electrical would be the load center (if one is present) and the connection to any battery isolator (chassis starting battery and alternator).