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Electrical Fitting Integrity OBSERVATION

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer


VERSUS





2 Tests.

320 Watt soldering gun

30 ampere circuit breaker

Objective. Determine which above chemical improves conductivity in an AL/CU (aluminum to copper) connection. Not a connection using brand new components. Rather, reasonably clean parts with no obvious sign of severe oxidation. Both devices were in service and seemingly working OK before the test.

With a line voltage measuring between 121-124vac here are the observations.

Weller soldering gun. 1st test. 282 watts. With Ideal compound inserted between aluminum tubes and copper electrode 280-282 watts. No change. Removed electrode then clean and flushed ideal compound,
Applied CAIG DeOxit D100, 323 watts

Whole house 30-ampere breaker single pole. Applied Ideal compound. Turned on microwave, toaster iron, and small hot water heater. Voltage measured at breaker output 106.

Flushed Ideal compound and applied D-100. Circuit voltage 113.

You may come to your own conclusion. I monitored watts, amperes, va, and voltage at multiple points during this observation.

Ingredient in Ideal compound, same as in other brand name compounds: COSMOLINE. Cosmoline is an excellent inhibitor of oxidation and corrosion. Inhibit means to stop or reduce the formation of corrosion.

Just thought you'd like to know.

PS: I mentioned above the parts did not have corrosion. They were as bright as new parts.
5 REPLIES 5

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Good post Landy. Some folks will shriek at the cost of the CAIG products then continue to lose ten percent fuel mileage or equipment that does not work right. I proofed it on a NEW OUT OF THE BOX Alfa wi-fi booster. Two bars signal strength. The laptop already had a treated USB port.so the antenna, adapter, and amplified USB cord got treated. Five bars signal strength. Used it on my toad temperature sender on the engine. Immediate climb by two needle widths. Instead of displaying cold on a warm day it reads correctly. The stuff is amazing.

BTW kudos on your figuring out the emissions test is danged sensitive. The interconnection of all systems to the ECU is the key to good fuel mileage. I am driving a toad that registers the first 25% on CO NOX & HC. Not bad for it's 25th birthday.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've used the detoxit on my switches on my off road motorcycle for years, and yes it does clean up contact surfaces and work.

Only stuff that works better is a proprietary product the company i worked for developed a "contact cleaner and lube". used it on all switch contacts and many interconnect contacts in products during production and when servicing them. Even was available for sale for a while. Then when one of the ingredients became no longer available (sigh) no more. but i managed to get a pint bottle to take home and it will last me a lifetime.

It was manufactured for us by Indusco chemical in portland oregon. I think at one time they also sold a similar product call no noise, which I think also disappeared about the same time.

When detoxit doesn't work the "contact cleaner and lube" always has.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
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2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
Mex, you turned me onto the Caig Deoxit lineup last Fall.

I bought a little kit which came with a bunch of their products in small amounts:
http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-SK-IN30-DeoxIT-Industrial-Survival/dp/B004GE15JG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1...

At the time I was having issues with my Engine computer pin/socket connectors. I had gone down to Napa, and bought some CRC QED electronics cleaner and used it to flush out old dielectric grease and debris, and the connectors looked pristine, And i foolishly believed they were.

But the engine computer issues continued. After I bought The Caig kit linked above, I sprayed the connectors with D5, and used their provided swabs to polish the pins and sockets. The Swabs turned black and got all tore up. It was like grey 320 grit sandpaper inside the sockets, and the D100 and the swabs turned it into polished chrome.

The Pins were brass and they went from dull copper colored to oiled gold in color with the same D5 spray/swab treatment.

I was astounded such a 'pristine' connector still had so much oxidation inside of it.

Still my engine computer issues were still present. It was an internal solder failure I later fixed upon acquiring a 140 watt Weller gun.

Anyway, I used the DeOxit gold on these connectors as they are dissimilar metals, and when I next removed them, I found the Deoxit Gold, which has only a small cleaning ability, had dissolved more oxidation on the contacts and left a bluish /green liquid in the plastic connector housing, which I wiped out with some q tips. So time left applied is a factor too.

I've also used the Caig Shield but this is not a cleaner, just a preservative.

Anyhow, After I resoldered the engine computer Pin/ circuit board connection ( no more issues in 7 months since) I went a bit nutty opening up every electrical connector in my Rig, applying the QED to flush the old grease, then DeoXit D5 Spray, waiting a bit, then polishing the pins and sockets with some precision swabs, and they all turned black or dark gray, despite the contacts being immersed in Dielectric grease their whole lives and still appearing to be in good condition on visual inspection after cleaning with the CRC QED cleaner.

The TPS, MAP, and 02 sensor contacts were the worst, ripping swabs to shreds and turning black in the process. Eventually the swabs stop changing color, they just stay pink and do not get shredded.

After this application, my next drive, it felt like I had removed 500 Lbs of weight from the Van and MPG's, which I thought were permanently gone as the result of slightly larger heavier tires, came back.

My theory is the engine computer sends out 5 volts, and after passing through the sensors, the voltage returned allows the computer to vary the spark timing and air fuel ratio, and the oxidized contacts cause more voltage drop than there should have been, throwing out the sensor input signals, and causing it to run richer than it needed to run.

I have to get a smog test this week, so this might prove me correct, if the numbers are better than my 6 previous tests.

Now, I had ordered a larger can of D100, as the sample size in the linked kit above did not last long. This ordered can, the product came out foamy. I contacted Caig about it and they sent me a new can, and this can does not come out foamy, but it also does not have the reddish/pinkish Hue, and it does not seem to clean as well.

I am not sure what is up with it. I need to throw out another Email to Caig. The one which came out foamy worked good, the non foamy non red one does not

That sample kit came with small tubes of d100, gold and Shield, and I've just been using them, instead of the cans of spray, neither of which act the same as the little spray bottle which came in the Kit.

One more thing I can add is physical agitation of the oxidation smothered in D100/D5 is wise. Drug stores, in the dental section, sell these mini bottle brushes, which are awesome at getting inside small Sockets and working the D5/100 around fully as well as abrading the oxidation.

I also found some very small precision swabs which can also fit inside most of the sockets inside the connectors.

http://www.amazon.com/Craft-Cotton-Swab-Round-Small/dp/B0026IBC2Y/ref=pd_sim_21_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=167...

The pics show these swabs to have rounded edges, but the ones I recieved were flat on the bottom and perfectly cylindrical. I stocked up on them. these are about 2.5 MM diameter at the tip. Highly recommended.

They have ones with pointy ends and these are good too, but I prefer the linked ones.

My dremel has the chuck adaptor which can clamp down to any size, and I often cut these swabs in half, put them in the dremel, and turn oxidized copper into gleaming oiled gold with minimal effort after application of d5 or d100.

I've noticed my Weller gun sometimes takes forever to heat up and does not get as hot. I remove the tips and find the mating surfaces all black and ugly. I've just used the mini wire brush on the dremel to make them shine again and return lost performance, but have not used the Deoxit on this interface, yet.

Yesterday I used some d100 on the Silicon brass bolts provided with a June 2015 manufacture date Lifeline AGM battery. Turned the swabs dark grey.

Magic electrical juice in my opinion. I use the D100/D5 spray for cleaning, then D/O Gold or Shield for protection/ contact enhancement.

Amazing how much oxidation comes off of Micro USB ports just with the D/O gold. It is also a lubricant. I use it on my outdoor TV antenna every so often when weak stations do not come in, and then they usually return after application. My Wifi adapter also benefits from stronger signals.

Basically I do not open any long unused connector without my DeOxit handy.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
My comment would have to come in the form of an opinion.

Aluminum is horrible. So new aluminum electrical parts are tin plated so they do not have a brawl when clamped to copper.

Cosmoline is one of the most inexpensive chemicals. A few years ago I priced a 55 gallon drum of it at 280 some-odd dollars + a substantial drum deposit.

CAIG DeOxit is not cheap. Twenty to thirty dollars for a very small bottle which is enough to do every electrical contact in a rig twice over.

Electrical connections have to be disassembled for this stuff to work. Dribble a drop then swish it around with a Q-tip. Reassemble. Cosmoline wins hand's Down as a preservative, between the two.

Thank goodness I slopped every single connection in my bus as I assembled brand new parts when I was building it. I chose my own brew as it is superior to straight cosmoline. But maybe it's time to volt-drop test the breakers (22-years).

The D100 stuff is the only chemical I found to be useful in the CAIG cleaner line. I use it tiny-drop-by-tiny-drop as a second tiny drop does zero to aid cleaning.

How "they" came up with the idea that commercial cosmoline products "improve" connection conductivity is beyond me.

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks. Do you also have a comment on which product would be easier to apply? Cost?
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
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