Electrical question

Start with a volt meter. I suspect you have an open GFCI, either in the house or in your RV.

Start with the battery voltage. Then voltage on the 12v fuses.

If the battery is dead and not charging you converter could be shot. For an immediate fix you could get a 10+ amp battery charger for the trip.

110 goes to a breaker box. If you have 50 amp service, maybe one side is not working. Or you do not have power from the 110 service to the 12 volt converter and the battery is disconnected.

Is the battery disconnect (salesman) switch in the disconnect position? In some units the converter is on the battery side of the disconnect switch, so with it turned off there isn't any 12V power for general house loads.

Usually the CO detector is wired to the 12V system, so there apparently is 12V power somewhere. Often it's not disconnected via the usual disconnect.

your problem is NO 12v
possibly dead battery, bad connection, blown fuse, disconnect switch
your lights are 12v, the fridge and almost everything else uses 12v either for control circuit aka the fridge, or for main power aka lights water pump heater etc..

I agree the problem is low or no 12 volts.. How it works

120 volts from house/garage comes into the RV.. NOTE: some RV's will trip GFCI by code all outdoor outlets are GFCI or GFCI protected so make sure there is power at the outlet (plug in lamp)

now it comes into the RV. if it's a Trailer it USUALLY goes straight to the breaker box but in a motor home there is a transfer switch (or a trailer with optional factory generator).

IF the CONV breaker or main is tripped.. No joy..
Using that lamp. Find an outlet that is NOT inverter powered (If you do not have an inverter that is every outlet in the house) and plug in NO light = No power.

Check GFCI. there is likely one in the bathroom. IF there is do a test and reset. it may refuse to reset if no power.. Plug in lamp there.

Now from the CONV breaker power goes to a box called a CONVERTER (CONVerter) this may be right behind the breaker box or it may be... elsewhere.

This box converts (Converter) 120vac to 12vdc (Battery) it has 1,2 or 3 30 amp fuses which may be blown. (if more than one they will be side by side).
IF you need to replace them.. UNPLUG replace all of them Plug back in.

From there it goes to the house system. then to the battery disconnect. and via a fuse or breaker to the battery when plugged in.

WHen unplugged reverse last paragraph as far as "house system" and stop.

IF you have an inverter/charger.. Small ones same as above
Big ones are often connected direct to the battery via a fuse or breaker BEFORE the switch.

Now on my RV (Which is of course the one I know best) The CONVerter is not behind the fuse block and is a PLUG IN device in an outdoor compartment. Sometimes it becomes unplugged (Very easy fix).

After 12.5 years it died (Also a very easy fix but 238 dollars).

And as I said some folks have blown fuses. Mine did not.

The fridge "check indicator" on ours is for LP operation and is a 12v light that comes on beside the gas light if the fridge fails to ignite.

nvm. I confused myself and deleted my not accurate thoughts. :h

Cycle your battery disconnect to off then back to on

ginaseven wrote:
I plugged in to 110 tonight to turn the fridge on and have lights to start packing.
....
12volt lights do not come on either.

How long was it unplugged or since you ran generator or engine? I hope it is only the 12v disconnect but suspect you have run batteries down. You might have killed them if left depleted long. As others have said. Start with the 12v disconnect switch. it could be as simple as that. If not then put a voltmeter on the batteries. Do you know where your converter is? Use the voltmeter on the output of the converter. post results.