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Favorite multi-meter for RV / Solar

Just_There
Explorer
Explorer
What mult-meters and clamp on *ammeters do y’all prefer for RV chassis/house/solar?
20 REPLIES 20

Matt_Colie
Explorer
Explorer
Clamp on DC current probes are great, particularly for trying to diagnose issues with solar backs. Just be sure to get one that reads to relatively low (<10A) levels.

If you have nothing, start off with a Hazard Fright cheapy and a Kill-A-Watt. The HF will do you well for nearly all the DC work, and the KAW will diagnose AC issues faster than anything else.

I have a stable of Fluke stuff. I started buying it with the introduction of the 70series and have added as needed over the years. I would never have amassed this collection if it were not deductible. You don't need what I have so do not buy it and don't worry about what you have.

Matt
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dogs (one dear dog is waiting for us at the bridge) going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
DFord wrote:
It's time to upgrade your lights to LED to prevent things like that.
I was using the lamp for a load to check the condition of a battery. Unfortunately the battery was in good condition.
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I went through some $10 meters that have the DC 10 amp limit, frying them. ( I am a spaz) I then got the same sort of meter only with a fuse in it for the amps. I have replaced the fuse a couple of times, which "paid" for the extra cost of the fused meter over the basic one.
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DFord
Explorer
Explorer
Tom_M wrote:
This was my favorite until an incandescent lamp fell over on it. Didn't notice until something smelled hot. I also have a DC clamp-on that I use a lot.


It's time to upgrade your lights to LED to prevent things like that. I've been burned for the last time with trouble lights and incandescent bulbs. I've made the switch. The LEDs are equivalent to "rough service" bulbs when it comes to dropping them - another plus.
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
If you can find a Sears store, they have a sale on their DC clamp meter for $44.99.

Craftsman Clamp Meter
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
This was my favorite until an incandescent lamp fell over on it. Didn't notice until something smelled hot. I also have a DC clamp-on that I use a lot.
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
I like the new Ames series of meters from HF myself. Not quite Fluke but close.
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1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

DFord
Explorer
Explorer
Sign up for Harbor Freight's mailings and you'll get their catalogs and emails with coupons for free stuff - often they give away meters with another purchase and it doesn't have to be much. I keep two or three around on my MH - I either need it inside and it's in a compartment or I need it outside and it's in a draw inside. I don't bother to take the spare out of the package till I need it or I run across a newbie and give it to them. They work fine - 12 volt isn't rocket science and I'm not sending anyone to the moon. I haven't put a battery in my Simpson 260p in so long it's feeling dejected.
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System

Iraqvet05
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a cheap $20 multimeter from Amazon after my Craftsman died. The Craftsman was bulky but built like a tank and lasted me for several years. The "DApril" brand I got from Amazon works but the display will shut off when it gets too cold and the leads are very cheap.
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US Army veteran

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
My solar controller with remote tells me all I need to know.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Craftsman multi-meter. I bought it about 12 years ago for $25.
I tested it against a Fluke a friend owns. It gave the same readings as the fluke within one or two volts.
A free Harbor Freight cheapie gave about the same readings.
I'm satisfied with the Craftsman, it does the job for me.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use the FLUKE Multimeter that I have had with me most of my working years...

I also use the SEARS Craftsman Clamp on AC/DC Ampmeter Model 82369...

Google image

This meter gets used a lot when working around the battery bank where you can read the load DC Current as well as the Battery Charge absorption currents...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
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Just_There
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all. Fluke has always been at the top, but spendy. I like the look of the Uni-T. Regarding analog: I have a theory that most people (myself included) tend to put too much trust in digital, cause the numbers look so finite and official. Analogy shows more real-time if there is a sketchy connection. But then again, I started college with a slide rule...

DFord
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
For most RV and household repairs/checks, you don't need anything fancy at all. A basic inexpensive analog multimeter is adequate for most things I can think of other than medium to high current measurements. It may be a bit imprecise for battery state of charge voltage checks, but that's better done by measuring specific gravity anyhow. I have a simple analog meter in my RV (in addition to some panel meters permanently installed that show the AC and DC voltages and currents).

For clamp ammeters, be aware that a fair few only measure AC current with the clamp, and that's decidedly less useful for RV use where DC currents are quite often what one wishes to measure.

My favorite/primary multimeter is a Fluke model 73 series II that I bought decades ago. It isn't the fanciest model, espeically by modern standards, but it is accurate and sturdy enough and has good protection circuitry to prevent its being damaged by operator error in most circumstances. Not all multimeters are specified as withstanding without damage 300V applied when in resistance mode, but it is...and I've demonstrated it once or twice.


I've forgotten what the subject of the seminar was but the question I asked of the speaker was why not use an analog meter for the test he was explaining? His reply was most people in the room 1. wouldn't have one or 2. know how to read it.
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System