Fridge and furnace on generator

Hi Greg,

Both items should run on the generator.

The furnace does burn propane to produce heat and the fan and control circuitry runs on 12 volts DC.

Thanks. They do turn on but do not operate. They do operate on shore power but not the gen.

Generator supplies 120V AC so fridge should run on AC when in Auto mode.

Check that the outlet fridge is plugged into has AC Power.
If no AC could be due to a tripped GFCI upstream OR a tripped AC circuit breaker


Furnace blowing cold air>>>>>>
Is Fan control on thermostat set to Auto?
Did you select 'Heat' when you turned t-stat temp setting up to 78*F?
Furnace is 12V DC power and propane fired.
Furnace fan comes on and blows air to purge system (makes up a sail switch that allows DC power thru to circuit board)
After purge.......circuit board sends DC to gas valve and spark electrode to ignite flame.

Lack of sparking....no flame
Could be stuck sail switch
Could be dirty contacts on circuit board connector
Could be faulty circuit board
Could be spark electrode not properly gaped or out of position

Post Brand/model of furnace for specifics IF you don't get it working

so the furnace produces hot air when plugged into shore power but not generator? Is that correct?

Air conditioner runs on both shore and generator?

The microwave works when on generator and shore power but the fridge only runs on shore power? Is that correct?

Do the electrical outlets work when on generator power?

Furnace is a 12 volt device, if the batteries are low it will not work. I have a trouble shooting chart I'll append to this message.

Fridge should indeed get power from the generator, if it's not the Auto Transfer Switch is suspect. However that said, some generators might make power the fridge is not happy with.

This document was created while I was diagnosing MY furnace.. I am told I missed one possible issue... Sadly I forget if I updated the document or not and the issue Bad connections anywhere along the line can lower voltage

When the T-Stat calls for heat the control board starts the blower (1)
The blower blows closing the sail switch (2)
The control board then opens the gas valve (3) and begins sparking (4.1)
Gas Flows (5) And ignitets (4.2)
The flame heats the flame sensor (5)
The flame sensor sends .480 volts to the control board (6)
which then detects the .480 and continues operation (*)
When the T-stat says "Enough already" (RV is now warm)
The control board shuts off the gas flow (*)
and then turns off the blower after a cool down (*)

*: At nearly every step the control board is involved. IF IT IS BAD, things will not work.. I recommend replacement boards from Dinosaur boards.. When Mine went out the Dino board was less than half the price and when opened the box the quality of construction and workmanship, and then design was very clear to my trained eyes.

1: No 12 volt to furnace, blower motor shot
2: Low 12 volt, air ducts clogged, blower "obstructed" bad sail switch
3: Bad solenoid, Clogged Gas Jet
4: .1: Bad ignition circuit (high voltage) on control board. .2: Points too wide (Very common it seems)
5: These do not often fail but they can
5: Bad connection, NOTE:
5 and * Bad wire.

* applies to all steps by the way So does bad wire/connection.

Sounds like you need to get an electrical person to help you.
All good suggestions and info above.

battery

thanks all. On the furnace, I thought it was supposed to run off AC by itself...I did not have the LPG open. I will double check that this evening.

then I will check the AC outlet the fridge is connected to....If I can find it.

Ab7r wrote:
.I did not have the LPG open.

First reply said that.

Ab7r wrote:
thanks all. On the furnace, I thought it was supposed to run off AC by itself...I did not have the LPG open. I will double check that this evening.

then I will check the AC outlet the fridge is connected to....If I can find it.

Fridge outside compartment....remove lower vent cover.
AC power cord plugs into an outlet which is feed from an GFCI outlet OR directly from a AC Circuit Breaker