I just purchased a 1993 Winnebago Warrior 22ft. It's my first RV and I'm still figuring out how everything works. The problem is the fridge is not coming on. I checked to see if there is power at the plug, sure enough there is. So it seems that the power is going to the fridge but its not lighting up or making any noise, nor is it getting cold. I tried operating it in the "GAS" setting too. NOTHING! If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you.

The fridge probably has an electronic board that requires 12 volts to operate even when on 120 VAC.

Fridge needs 12V DC to operate the control circuit.12V DC comes from battery and/or converter (when on shore power--120V AC)Fridge uses 120V AC for electric heater elementFridge uses LP propane for 'GAS' ..........propane has to be valved in and flowing.Do you have panel lights on fridge that work?Check AC Dist. Panel for tripped breaker.Check DC Dist. Panel for blown fuseRV fridge is an absorption refrigerator and doesn't make noise when running (no compressor)They also need to be level to operate correctly...off level operation will cause damage (accumulative damage until it dies)They do not get cold quickly.....need to be operating several hours before freezer section will begin cooling down and then a few more hours for food section to cool.What Brand/Model? Dometic-Norcold etc.

It is a Norcold. there are no lights coming on at the switch panel. I looked under the hood and under the dash for fuses and found nothing. There is a panel in a compartment on on the out side of the rv and this is where I found what I think is the plug for the fridge. In this compartment there are some electrical boards and one say Norcold #61655622. I will keep looking for some fuses and or breakers tho.. Thank you both for your help!

First off, Welcome to the forums! A couple of hints to keep the curt remarks down and help the folks on here answer questions are to include the make and model of the appliance or whatever part of your rig that is giving you problems. Almost every appliance is connected to the house batteries. There are house battery(ies) and a chassis battery. State if you checked your batteries and the SOC or state of charge. Most common is to buy a digital multimeter and learn how to use it. Your fridge as you now know is controlled by a 12DC board. The heater can be either 120VAC or propane. Need to check that. Most of us when we turn the propane on, bleed the air out of the lines by turning on the stovetop burners and using a match to light it. Turn that off and then follow the instructions on lighting the frige. It may take awhile to bleed the rest of the air out of the line. If you can't get the fridge lit, check to make sure that there is 12VDC to the board. Mine has a terminal strip where the DC and the AC from the R connects to wires going to the edge connector for the control board. If you have DC check on the board there is usually a glass fuse, there should be power on both sides of the fuse.Follow the same procedure to see if you have AC power. As mentioned if you don't have the RV hooked up to a !20 DAC outlet in your home, you won't have any in your rig.Grounds can be a problem but living here in So Cal, we usually don't have as many as folks from rainy or snowy areas.If you do this and it still doesn't work, check back and note what you have checked and that you have both AC and DC power and gas and the stove works. The more info you give us the faster and better the suggestions will be. Once again, Welcome to the Forums and to our little Family.

OK I did a quick search and as I am unsur of your exact model I will let you choose make and model for your Winnebago wiring diagram and maybe you could explore this some and find more info to help you along as well as the people here. Good Luck

Fridge doesn't work?? 1993 Winnebago Warrior | Good Sam Community

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jan 20, 2014
I have the manual for that model at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/600.pdf, which give some more troubleshooting.
I would look at the phone style connector on that board- look at the cable and in the receptacle for green corrosion.
olenmain
Explorer
Jan 19, 2014
Just pulled the black cover and found two fuses. Both are good! Do you think I should replace the circuit board in the fridge or just burn the whole RV.
olenmain
Explorer
Jan 19, 2014
I just checked the volts between J3 and J4 (purple and green) and there is 12 volts!! It appears that these wires run into the back of the fridge. I pulled he eyebrow off the front of the fridge to see if there is any power on the circuit board. between R11 and R21 and it was about 10 volts. Seems like I have power going to the fridge (12 volt and 120 volt). Either there is a short in the 120 cord or the circuit board in the top of the fridge is bad?? I didn't know there was fuses under the black cover so I'll run out and check it right now!! Thank you for your help! we are getting close.
Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Jan 19, 2014
Check for 12 volts on between the purple and green wires in this picture- if you do have power there, there is are fuses under the black cover.
The hi humidity switch is a great tip, but in this picture the blue wires coming out of the box are hooked together, bypassing that (and indicating. a single door model).
wasatchmtnatvr
Explorer
Jan 19, 2014
I didn't see where he said any other problems, just learning about rv. If your interior ceiling lights work focus on the appliance and/or 12 vt. going to appliance. Still didn't see model # posted so assuming possibly 1 door or 2 door. Open refer door/s and look for rocker switch between doors possibly labeled Hi humidity/off/normal. That switch controls 12vt power to optical (refer selector switch and lights). The center position is off, so put it in up or down position and try, either way is fine. Sometimes age makes switch finicky especially because refer is a damp cold location, so rapidly move switch 10-15 times back and forth and may help on contacts. Same said for slide switches for temp setting and/or elect/off/lp. or auto/off/lp switch.
olenmain
Explorer
Jan 19, 2014
Thank you everyone for your help so far. I just found the fuse/ breaker panel and checked all of them (all were good!). The lights on the fridges controls do not come on tho. I know there is 120 volts getting to the fridge because I tested the outlet, but I do not think the 12 volt system is working.

photo 1. http://imgur.com/HzBuhmO

photo 2. http://imgur.com/flFQBVU

photo 3. http://imgur.com/bKVa4LS
Canadian_Rainbi
Explorer
Jan 19, 2014
D.E.Bishop: One of the nicest and best responses I have seen in a long time.
Bobbo
Explorer II
Jan 19, 2014
Dog Folks wrote:
A simple solution maybe that you are not giving it enough time to cool. RV refrigerators require a long time to cool, when compared with household types.

Give it at least 6 hours.

I always turn mine on a full 24 hours before putting anything in it.
Dog_Folks
Explorer
Jan 19, 2014
A simple solution maybe that you are not giving it enough time to cool. RV refrigerators require a long time to cool, when compared with household types.

Give it at least 6 hours.
j-d
Explorer II
Jan 19, 2014
There's a "Converter/Charger" somewhere in the coach. It Converts 120vac (if you're plugged into 120vac or running a generator) to 12vdc. That 12vdc supply takes over for your coach battery for MOST of the lights and appliances that use 12vdc. The trick here is "MOST." It isn't uncommon to find the fridge logic board powered directly by the coach battery. So it's possible the fridge's control system might not be powered up if you're plugged into 120vac but your coach battery is missing or dead. The Charger part is supposed to recharge the coach battery when you're plugged into 120vac. The Charger side (or Converter side) can fail and the other side be good. Charger fail, coach battery won't charge (or will run down if installed new or charged), fridge still won't run.
You need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter (DVOM, aka Multimeter) and start checking for 12vdc.
Coach (or House) battery may be underhood, very possibly in part of the coach body, sometimes cleverly hidden. There should be 12vdc and 120vac power/fuse/breaker panels, much more likely inside the living space of the coach than under the hood.