fridge level?

kellem wrote:

Was always under the impression that front to back leveling was more critical as long as left to right wasn't extreme.

If you read your manual you might get a different impression.

Where are trailer parks all winter with frig running 24/7 is level front to back but trailer leans down slightly towards frig....no issues.

Was always under the impression that front to back leveling was more critical as long as left to right wasn't extreme.

coolmom42 wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Open fridge outside compartment

Look at the absorber tube bundle....large slanted tubes

Are they running downhill....OK
Are they level....no downward slope ----NOPE
Are they running uphill .....NOPE

Can you clarify on the uphill/downhill? Which side should be lower, as a person faces the outside compartment?

Absorber tubes slant downward to help gravity flow
If when parked those tubes are NOT slanted downward then gravity flow will be disrupted

See how they are slanted downward

Thanks for the replies. Temps will be in low 40s when I leave, so it won't take long for the fridge to cool down. A cooler will work for a few hours.

I'm not wanting to do a lot of moving the RV in the yard since it's very wet. My concrete guy supposedly has me on the list in the next 3-4 weeks. Hoping the weather cooperates and the pad gets poured before long.

Don't do it.
As above, 3 degrees side to side (the fridge) and 6 front to back is max. You said about 3. If it is less than 3 side to side then might be ok, if more then will be bad.

What happens is the liquid will get trapped in the coils when it is off-level and because it does not drip back down into the boiler section and keep it full damage will occur.
A little bit of liquid trapped may or may not be a problem, but do you want to take that $1,500 risk?

I have friend that swears that his fridge can run off-level and he never bothers to level the camper for the fridge. Now he does not know why the fridge will not work.
This process of damage takes time. Damage builds up until eventually, usually on a hotter day, it just will not work.

Typically, you're supposed to operate a fridge not more than 3 degrees off-level, left to right (looking at the front of the fridge), and not more than 6 degrees off-level, back to front. However, operating a fridge at or slightly below its max off-level spec is no guarantee it still won't suffer some slow, cumulative damage. Been there, done that. The only way to be absolutely sure your fridge is operating safely is by monitoring the flue temps. We take the stress out of off-level situations by monitoring our flue temps with an ARP Fridge Defend.

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Open fridge outside compartment

Look at the absorber tube bundle....large slanted tubes

Are they running downhill....OK
Are they level....no downward slope ----NOPE
Are they running uphill .....NOPE

Can you clarify on the uphill/downhill? Which side should be lower, as a person faces the outside compartment?

Not sure i've ever been Exactly level, never had a problem ,if I get it somewhere in The bubble, close enough.

Open fridge outside compartment

Look at the absorber tube bundle....large slanted tubes

Are they running downhill....OK
Are they level....no downward slope ----NOPE
Are they running uphill .....NOPE

I use a bubble level on the countertop if its inside the bubble? I use it ,never had a frig problem and its 12years old.