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Fridge not cooling correctly?

ymehp
Explorer
Explorer
Fridge worked fine before storing for the winter but now it's not cooling correctly. A few years back I had problems with it freezing up so I did the snip-the-tip.com trick and removed the thermistor and replaced it with an adjustable thermostat. Now if I turn this adjustable thermostat to the coldest setting everything seems to work correctly but the temp inside the fridge doesn't match the temp. setting on the thermostat. What I'm wondering is, should I go ahead and replace this thermostat or is there something else I should be looking into to that could cause said cooking issue? TIA
2012 Dutchmen 318RKDS
2006 Ford F-250 6.0 4x4 Crew Cab
10 REPLIES 10

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
j-d wrote:
jplante4 wrote:
Do the dollar bill test on the seals. I had to add some weather striping to mine (too old to get door parts).

Also, I found that the condensate drain was allowing warm air for the hot box back into the fridge. I plugged the drain and things got better.


Amazing, how the Door Seals and even the Drain affect what I'll call the "fragile" cooling produced by RV fridges. Have also read that the condensate drain should have a little bend in it to form a "trap" where a little water prevents air flow. Haven't tinkered with that...

I've experienced gasket leakage, and was ready to replace the fridge before investigating gaskets. We have a NorCold, and the gaskets aren't worn out or damaged, but still nearly 15 years old. I tried springing the doors so the corners opposite the hinges touched first. This was supposed to allow contact all the way down the door edges because the latches would hold those second-to-touch corners tight like the first ones.

Wrong! Doors aren't stiff enough to hold that twist. Now we knee the bottom of the fridge door and high five the top of the freezer door as they latch. Fridge is now performing OK.
Had this same issue on my 22 year old Norcold, I ended up removing the black plastic door latch and grinding about .050 off the back of it effectively removing the gap between the seal and door flange allowing a tight seal again.

dpgllg
Explorer
Explorer
MACHZER wrote:
Not to steal the thread, but what kind of small fan do you install outside to help with cooling?


This Fan installs behind the frig to keep air moving

Frig fan

Dave
2013 2500HD Chevy LTZ 6.6 Diesel Ext Cab Long Bed
2017 Grand Design Reflection 27RL 5th Wheel
Dear Wife, plus two Cocker Spaniels and a Standard Poodle

MACHZER
Explorer
Explorer
Not to steal the thread, but what kind of small fan do you install outside to help with cooling?
Clandeboye , Manitoba

ymehp
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the ideas guys!
2012 Dutchmen 318RKDS
2006 Ford F-250 6.0 4x4 Crew Cab

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
jplante4 wrote:
Do the dollar bill test on the seals. I had to add some weather striping to mine (too old to get door parts).

Also, I found that the condensate drain was allowing warm air for the hot box back into the fridge. I plugged the drain and things got better.


Amazing, how the Door Seals and even the Drain affect what I'll call the "fragile" cooling produced by RV fridges. Have also read that the condensate drain should have a little bend in it to form a "trap" where a little water prevents air flow. Haven't tinkered with that...

I've experienced gasket leakage, and was ready to replace the fridge before investigating gaskets. We have a NorCold, and the gaskets aren't worn out or damaged, but still nearly 15 years old. I tried springing the doors so the corners opposite the hinges touched first. This was supposed to allow contact all the way down the door edges because the latches would hold those second-to-touch corners tight like the first ones.

Wrong! Doors aren't stiff enough to hold that twist. Now we knee the bottom of the fridge door and high five the top of the freezer door as they latch. Fridge is now performing OK.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

jplante4
Explorer II
Explorer II
Do the dollar bill test on the seals. I had to add some weather striping to mine (too old to get door parts).

Also, I found that the condensate drain was allowing warm air for the hot box back into the fridge. I plugged the drain and things got better.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

garyemunson
Explorer
Explorer
Is the fridge mounted in a slide? If that is the case, it cannot have a rooftop vent and will rely on a couple fans to help move air through the two sidewall vents. The little sensor that controls the fans are notorious for failing.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
If all else fails, buy a compressor fridge and live happily (and colder) ever after.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check for wasp nests.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check,clean.
Check for yellow stains on the cooling tubes.
Clean the burner and chimney.